DiamondBack Covers | Modifications

Yeah it’s a Dometic DZ75 which is the same height as a 50. So I went a little larger.

 

What is the overall height of that Dometic setup?

 

Hmmm don’t know at the moment, my truck is unloaded. The slide adds about 3/8” to the height of my Dometic DZ75 which you can look up. It fits under the cover. I did bend the locking arm to make a tad bit more room

 

Anyone’s Diamondback let a lot of water in at the front corners? I’ve filled the gaps in the bed but waters still getting trough even when it’s just misting outside.

Also can get my clamps for the center piece to stay tight.

 

Is there any mods to make the lock a power lock?

 

Doubtful since the rods are tight and help to clamp it down. Also, there is nowhere to hide the motor/ mechanism since the lock is on top of the cover.

I'd be curious if someone designed a system.

 

You can try this for the clamps:
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/diamondback-modification-thread.553966/page-9#post-19598625
...and, maybe, some blue loctite.

As for the leaks, it seems to be trial and error stuff for now. I heard/read that Toyota has actual parts now to plug the gaps at the top corners on either side of the front of the bed. But, I don't have personal experience with them to know how well they stop leaks into the bed. For now, anything I don't want getting wet, I try to put in bins or try to get them off the floor of the bed somehow. The stuff I don't mind getting wet just sits where ever I see fit or seem to make room for.

 

Speaking of locks and weatherproofing. It would be a good idea if DiamondBack had a rubber/plastic handle cover w/ a tether for their locking handles. (I'll see if I can find/make something for this purpose) Mine got exposed to the snow during a church men's retreat up at Frazier Park, CA area this past weekend and it was a little difficult to get the key into the lock. It's like water got in there and froze the slotted part of the lock that allows the key to be inserted in. Fortunately, just a bit more pressure and light tapping allowed me to insert the key and unlock the handle on the front cover panel. (The back cover panel stays locked and shut since the bed rack sits on it). It's probably not a big deal, but now I'm wondering if the internals of the locking handle could get rust and cause a panel to be rusted shut. If it's being opened and closed regularly, then I'm guessing that shouldn't be a problem. Do any of you spray the locks w/ lithium grease or WD40 on occasion?

 

My Retrax cover came with these square foam pads that wedged in those gaps. I didn’t trust that they would keep out water on their own so I put some silicone over them. They’ve never leaked.

 

A few have asked for another pic or two of the tie down rails I installed on my cover. Finally back from powdercoat and reinstalled. As i have a need to carry boxes and similar cargo , I wanted more flexibility in securing items and also wanted the rods to function as a stop on each side for boxes. Working out well for me.
The hardware is mostly quarrter inch bolts except used 5/16 for the single center post on each side. Only did these on front panel as anything heavy needing firmer strapping goes up front.
The aluminum rod is 3/4 and has no flex up front and just a slight deflection on rear if over tightened.

** NO water leaks, 1/8 thick rubber washers along with waterproof silicone around bolts once pushed threw from inside. Also used 1/8 backing plate behind each set of holes for additional strength to avoid any indentation or bending of the cover when securing cargo.

 

Very nice

 

Random thought about truck bed security for packages and boxes in relation to people's underoos...

Open bed : free ballin or commando

Decked system (and similar) : briefs or panties

Stock and other tonneau covers : boxers and boxer briefs

DiamondBack covers : male or female chastity belts

 

U crazy hahaha

 

just ordered mine today, a little pricey to vancouver with the exchange rate and shipping, but ell worth it in the end.

 

Rago Fabrication Maxtrax and Rotopax mounts work great with the Diamondback.

 

Not really a overlanding modification question but anyone have a recommend way to haul sheet goods or say a glass table on top of the cover? I was thinking that my concerns are
1)Get table off the surface to clear the locks
2)I dont want it to slide around and I cant crank down the straps when haul the table as it is woven plastic(wicker) with a glass top.
3)need to support it a bit out further then my 5 foot bed.

I was thinking of maybe laying a 2"x4" down each side to get the surface height up over the locks. But then wondering if I need to worry about the 2"x"4 sliding around. Almost wondering about rubber coating the 2"x4" where it meets the cover or is that not needed on a line-x cover? Maybe also thinking about rubber coating the other side to keep table from sliding. Anyone make something that is reusable for helping haul stuff on top of the cover?

 

Mike finally got the review out:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VwZ5aKyNcXA

 

I used to use a Thule tailgate cover on the tailgate for bikes that I'd use on the DB cover to help objects I'm hauling clear the locking handles. A blanket or cardboard can come in handy, also.

Some ideas: You could try using tie down straps to secure the 2"x4"s onto the DB cover (I've strapped a folding table that way onto the back end of the DB cover to serve as an extension of the bed so that a 2-person backpacking tent can be supported it's whole length). Open the back cover panel of the DB cover. Loop the tie down strap around it with the ratcheting part of the strap on the underside of the back cover panel. Remove some slack on the strap (but leave enough room for the 2x4s), close the back cover panel, insert the 2x4s between the strap(s) & the DB cover, open the tailgate, & ratchet the tie down straps until they are tight and the 2x4s don't move. You can place/wrap those non-slip liners people put in their tool box drawer or kitchen drawers around the 2x4s where the straps would be and where the table would lie on. Put a blanket over the table or cardboard at points where a ratcheting tie down strap would make contact on the table. Place the straps over the blanket or cardboard, line them up to the cleats that work best for securing the table and tighten the tie down straps. Do that slowly and keep an eye out for the table showing signs of giving way to the pressure. Try to wiggle the table ever so often to test how secure it is on the DB cover before you tighten the straps any further.

 

The non-slip liners are a good idea to offer a little scratch protection and a little non slip protection that are not too pricey. Why strap the 2"x4"s down by putting the straps under the cover and not using the cleats? Is this to get lower and more downward force? I have not looked at the height of the top of the cleats vs the height of the top surface that closely but that would be my guess.

 

@personalt I tried the straps on the cleats for the table I had and the ratcheting handle seemed to get too close to the table more than I wanted or, like you said, it just didn't get tight enough to secure the table. I forget the exact reason why I did it the way that I described above. But for your purposes, if you're able to place the ratcheting handle of the tie down strap on a cleat, have it not get in the way so that the ratcheting handle can still be manipulated properly for loosening & tightening, and have it tight enough without damaging the table, then it's probably gtg on the cleats. If not, then you've got another option there for the tie down straps.