E locker Failure

Anyone had the rear locker on their 3rd gen fail? Mine failed at 37,000 miles, Dealer is saying it's not covered under the power train warranty and wants 1300 to replace the sensor for the rear locker. Obviously not excited about paying that out. Interested to see if anyone has done that themselves and how much work it was. Was considering regearing sometime in the future so I may just fix this at the same time.

Edit: Clarified with dealer that they think it's only the sensor

Edit 2: Its been resolved see below for more info

 

I’m fairly sure you can see the sensor from under the truck . Seems like you could get the part and do it yourself way cheaper.

 

Not part of the power train? It's part of how power ends up at the tires. Interesting.


If in fact that's the case, I wouldn't think it's that hard of a job. I'm guessing you will drop the drive shaft, drain the dif, pull the axles out enough to pull the third member, take it apart to get the actuator out and replace it. Reverse to reassemble. Make sure all shims go back where they were found and don't forget to fill with gear oil.

There will be a few details like the wiring harness for the locker.... and how the axles are held in place.... C-clips????

 

Can't help you to get the dealer to do what they should, but I would recommend doing some investigation (or a second opinion) before you assume the dealer is correct about it being the actuator.

That thing is a spring loaded coil, and I would bet that failures of the coil are pretty unlikely.

What are the dash indications or codes? Do you have techstream? Have an ohmmeter to check the lock coil and lock switches?

 

OP, how often did you use the elocker? 1 time, 25 times, 1000 times? Not busting your balls here, genuinely curious.

 

If it's just the sensor, the one you can see by peeking under the vehicle..that would be crazy if it's $1300! They broke mine replacing my axle seal and I certainly don't recall seeing that price tag on the service sheet unless they didn't put the price.

 

That’s what I was thinking that plastic box that takes a couple screws to mount ... I know Jeep Grand Cherokee owners have a service 4wd light that goes on when the actuator is bad and it’s an easy swap that the dealership charges an insane amount of labor for . Our trucks aren’t Jeeps but I can’t imagine it would be that intensive . You should see what the part alone cost ... lots of times the diagram would show you how bad the install would be /not be .

 

Well this sucks OP, another one of these threads/warranty denials that makes me feel a bit better buying the extended warranty for $1050, not that that helps your situation or makes you feel better. I'd call Toyota Corprate first, since I don't get how it doesnt fall under powertrain, if they deny then break out your wrench set. Good luck.

 

Just of note, the transfer case actuator and front diff actuator are still weak cheesy items...

The diff locker on 3rd gen is pretty robust by conparison.

 

In the summer I probably use the locker about 3-4 times/month on average. In the winter I stick to the plowed roads and don't really use it at all.

Just got back from picking up the truck at the stealership. They said it is the sensor. They said they were certain it was the sensor and not the actuator because the wires were broken. Between them and another dealer visit when this first popped up I'm out $250 in diagnostic fees for them to tell me the wires broken. They claim the only way to replace the sensor is to pull the ring gears out to get to it. They also wouldn't give me a specific quote with a parts and labor breakdown, asked twice reply was "my system can't print that out" Going to put my truck on a friends lift hopefully tomorrow PM to find out if the dealer is ripping me off or if Toyota has another stupid design.

If the wires are truly broken off from what was likely road debris I wonder if I can submit it as an insurance claim....

 

One time too many, apparently.

 

More like not as many times as I would've liked to use it... Was on a paved highway when I first had the issue crop up.

 

Can the wires be spliced? That would be a cheap fix if you can do it. And yes it can be done in a professional manner that will be water proof.

 

That sucks. I use my 04's e-locker all the time and it still works as it did when it was new in 04.

$1300 for an actuator is crazy talk, should be able to find one used or online for far cheaper. I see them going used for 1st gens for a couple hundred bucks.

 

The sensor plugs in to the 3rd member. DO NOT PULL THE GREY PLUG OUT OF THE 3RD! There is no internal wiring in the housing. If there's a broken wire, you'll be able to see it without disassembling anything other than the shield that protects the sensors. If you find the broken wire, splice it back together and you'll be good to go.

If the grey plug gets pulled out, your diff lock will be locked all the time and the only way to get it to work is to cut the bulb off the end of it and reintstall. The diff will lock and unlock like normal, but you will not get a dash indication, it will just blink. You can feel it lock and unlock though.

 

It sounds like its broken right on the back on the sensor. Would be nice if a splice was possible though

 

What a bummer, but you def are smarter than the average bear for doing your due diligence first.

 

You were on a paved HIGHWAY using the locker?

Isn't the locker limited to 5mph?

 

Put one of these in with on board air for $2000 installed

https://www.justdifferentials.com/ARBRD232-p/arbrd232.htm

 

Hmmm. As it sits right now, the lack of the sensor is keeping the diff from locking. I wonder if there's a way to bypass the sensor to get it to lock and unlock?

Wasn't using the locker. Was in 2WD and towing. Pulled into a gas station to fuel up, started the truck up and pulled out onto the highway and the locker indicator started blinking, Did a couple test turns to verify that it wasn't locked and headed straight to Dealership #1. At that point the truck wouldn't even engage 4WD. Eventually after dealer 1 checked it out, I drove home (3500 miles) and the diff light stopped blinking, 4HI & 4Lo both started working again, but the diff hasn't locked since then.