Noico / Dynamat / Sound Deadening material application

I'm going to do mine and post some Db meter readings before and after.

 

Just the doors?

 

Doors, floor, entire back wall, and if I can find decent instructions to get the headliner down, the roof.

I have very acute hearing and the truck is pretty noisy. A great deal is coming from the back panel and access door.

 

yea that's what i hear too. a lot of noise coming from behind the back seat

 

what does the noico under the speaker give you? reduced vibration?

 

In doing some research, hitting that area will reduce vibration and helps with midrange as that frequency is commonly the resonant frequency for a sheer metal panel.
If you are not going to do the whole door I’d hit at least the area around the speaker hole. That area is just thin sheet metal and it’s even more compromised by cutting a hole in it for the speaker. The speaker is going to transmit its vibrations to it, even more so with a better quality one. I know Dynamat sells speaker kits specifically for that purpose.

 

Thanks. I though about getting around the speaker and then the area just behind the speaker.

 

Are they same clips as in the door?

 

honestly, if you have the door skin off you might as well do the whole door. Everytime you close the door you will be impressed.

it's a BIG difference.

 

^^^^^.....that. From “clang” to “Thunk!”. Sounds like a bank vault closing inside, you feel it in your chest and like a pressure (almost ear pop) in your ears

 

would scissors work on the glue? I had a really hard time getting the glue to come apart. could also be because it was cold too

 

did this is in the summer, hope this helps

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/manfreds-white-rhino.520332/page-14#post-18588393
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/manfreds-white-rhino.520332/page-14#post-18596684

 

in regards to getting through the glue.. a hair dryer would work wonders.

also.. although not ready applicable here.. one trick I almost always use to get things unstuck with adhesive (emblems, adhesive gadgets, etc) is DENTAL FLOSS! get a nice long piece, string it around both hands and saw through the adhesive.

cheers.

 

I used a box cutter/razor blade but I don’t see why scissors wouldn’t. Warming it up a bit would help. Mine was pretty much open door garage temperature (70s in Florida). Hit the glue with a hair dryer and then pull at a corner, it will stretch like you’re pulling gum from the bottom of your shoe. Once you get it started cut as you pull. Some will be on the plastic, some will stay on the panel. Then later I’d heat it back up when your done and press it in place.

 

Thanks.

 

Did the back door tonight and already a difference at high speeds

 

I went overboard on the Noico 80mil when I did the back wall and floor of my truck. I put it in the doors too, but more along the ideal 20-30% coverage for this material. Admittedly, I began reading more about the material AFTER I applied most of it hahaha. I also applied Mass Loaded Vinyl to the entire floor. Later I went back and put the MLV on the back wall and door panels. Ill admit its not Lexus quiet but mitigates the majority of the hum from my tires. I did the same to my previous 3rd gen 4runner, well worth the time and effort involved.

 

Thinking about doing the roof and floor . So doing the floor first before roof would have better results ? Not wanting to do both at same time .

Edit
Already did all doors (fatmat) in and out and ensolite on inside of doors

 

did you have to remove the seats to get it off?

 

That is almost exactly what mine looks like. Tried to cover as much of the outer panel as I could, and as much of the inner panel as I could without covering the factory holes for screw/plugs/whatnot. Road noise is much less, and the doors make a solid, deep sound when closing.