Squeaky Penguin's (Trip Reports) Build Thread

Ah. Well that sounds not good.

 

They're identical.

Yep. Was trying to think if there was any other way to put them together, or ways I could be doing something wrong, but not seeing how they would ever fit.


Haven't heard back on my email or call, debating if I should start modifying them, or just order a set from DMZ. Have some trips on the calendar and want to get going on all the other stuff I need to do.

 

So the mounting points where you had them are the same as stock then? They aren't supposed to be higher maybe?

I know the dmz ones are quite good

 

Flashbacks

 

Hey Brett. Nice perches. That bottom section of the perch, just cut it off and weld it straight along the bottom of the frame. As long as you know your motor is at the right height (EDIT and front to back spacing) that's all that matters. I made sure everything was lined up right and then built perches to fit. It's a bitch but I pulled and put that motor in serval times just to make sure everything lined up. Good luck.

 

Supposed to be stock height. I got a call from Next Venture today, sounds like there was an issue with his last revision. Offered to send a new piece, but I don't want to wait.

Thanks for chiming in, Ray!

I was thinking about that, but if I cut it even with the bottom of the frame, I don't think I'll be able to weld where the hole is. Not sure if that's a problem, or if it's worth cutting a new piece to fit in there.

Going to dive into it this weekend and see what I come up with.

 

Well not even to the bottom of the frame, give it about a 1/4" above the bottom of the frame. To give the weld a space to sit on. You won't need to weld where the hole is. If you leave that section open you'll be fine. You won't need to cut a piece to fill it. Look at the old perch. it had an opening on the bottom too and how long they lasted. plus those where only 1/8" thick. The new ones you have look to be 1/4" thick. Pretty thick. But you'll need to weld the sides of that hole to the frame. Plus all the way around the perch to the frame should give it plent of strength. Do a few passes of weld to make the welds beefy.

The only thing is that the frame steel there is only 1/8" thick. So if anything, you'll bend the frame in or rip the meat out of the frame. But you'll really have to do something stupid to cause that.

Cut and weld on yellow. Just my .02 bud. You're a smart guy. You'll figure it out. You've impressed me several times.


Another option. Is weld the top and sides of the perch first. Get a BFH and hammer that lower section to the bottom of the frame and burn it in. Don't really recommend it because it will be a bitch to get flush and weld it. I do stuff like this alot at work.

 

This. Don’t overthink it too much and just trim off the overhang and burn it in.

 

What’s wrong with just leaving the hanging section and weld from the bottom/back?

 

I just want to point out the fact that @BBR took a picture of his screen and posted that

 

Was wondering about the frame there too. I have some 3/16" plate and was thinking about making a couple frame plates either side of the mount.

Thanks guys. Probably what I'll do. Just needed some reassurance that doing so would be acceptable.

Didn't want to put in all this work and not get these in properly.

Nothing probably, aside from it being difficult to get the MIG gun in there. Could probably do it if I pull the suspension, but would rather not do that.

 

Yeah just cut it and burn it. Plate some other stuff while you're in there. Call it a day.

 

That's what I did because mine was bent in. It's up to ya.

 

Still over thinking this...

Did a bunch of measuring this morning, and looks like the TG mounts will drop the engine 1/2", in which case it would probably be best to move the perches up too, no?

 

My TG mounts raised my motor up. Was a pita to install due to that.

That said, I thought that was due to my year of truck as it has the cast engine brackets vs the stamped metal ones. Yours should be the stamped ones.

I can't confirm that info really. Just something a few have thought of when swapping to bozen mounts.

Either way if that's the case then yes move the perches up! Surprised you didn't put the TG ones in first on the stock ones to measure?

 

Well..shit.

 

Put that tranny back in and use it as a reference for the motor.

 

Pretty frustrated trying to make this work. Spent all day in the garage and don't feel like I accomplished anything. Was all set to just cut those perches and weld them in until I saw how different those mounts were. Had the engine in and out a few times trying different things, but didn't get anywhere. Think I'm going to need to tack them in where I think they need to end up, and then see if the engine is in the right place. Hoping that doesn't mean putting the trans back in, but it might need to. Actually looking forward to the core support work after this... '



Wasn't much left of the factory driver's side motor mount. Think I could've ripped it apart.



And yep, frame rail is pushed in a touch.




What's your week of experience say @teamhypoxia ? Not perfect, but pretty happy with how they turned out.

 

Why don't you just bolt on the TG mount and the NV perches to the motor then drop it in and mark the perches where they line up. You should know where they need to go depth wise(as in front to back) if you do this it will tell you where it wants to sit height wise. Then just mark it up and double check everything else will be happy.