Dual Battery Setups! Let's see them! Multiple Batteries Thread!

I run 2x Northstar NSBAGM-35, and they are awesome. I can definitely recommend.

 

odyssey weighs in at 50lbs priced at $295 with 850CCA

$378 Odyssey 35-PC1400T Automotive and LTV Battery

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002496HM0/ref=psdc_15710461_t4_B000MS9VZK
Optima weighs in at 31.7 priced at about $230-$250 with 720CCA

$270 OPTIMA Batteries 8020-164 35 RedTop Starting Battery

https://www.amazon.com/Optima-Batte...id=1551564864&s=sporting-goods&sr=1-3-catcorr

the weight savings on the optima is 40lbs that's crazy seems like that's the better choice to me

 

I already have the ARB dually on the opposite side so I don't wanna add too much more weight up front with the winch and steel bumper too

 

If you go optima, you'll want your second battery to be the yellowtop, not the redtop. But you probably already knew that!

 

I did not what is the reason for this?

 

I stake no claim to be an expert. with that being said is there a how-to video on installation of a dual battery set up?

ill answer my own question...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rNLhx8dm8Gs

 

Red tops are a starting battery with high cold cranking amps with low AH rating and aren't meant for deep cycling. The yellow tops are meant for deep cycle "auxiliary" battery uses, with higher AH rating and a lower cca rating. They still have enough CCA to start a Tacoma though. Most people running optima run two yellow tops.

 

Yellow top still weigh the same?

 

Should be close, I don't know off the top of my head.

 

They are very close..within 3-4 lbs. My plan was to use the Northstar batteries but they are SOOO heavy.....I'm now looking at a G35 yellow top for the acc battery and a G35 red top for the starting battery as long as they are compatible for a dual battery set up.

 

from what ive read on OGE page really any group 35 will work. I might just go with two yellow tops for the light weight. id really like the odyssey tho for the 850 CCA

 

This is not sufficient information. You need to look at the amp draw of every device connected and the length of wire connecting each individual device to the bus. Reference the table below to see if you have sufficient sized wire to each device. Then add all the amps of all devices that are attached to the bus if everything is drawing power. If you're measuring amps, make sure devices that cycle themselves on/off such as a fridge or compressor, are actually running. Not just switched on. Use this number to calculate if the wire feeding the bus is sufficient sized for the length of the run.

I'd fuse the red wire feeding the bus as close as possible to the source voltage. I.e. the battery. Unless you're picking it up somewhere else. I picked up positive voltage on a lug going into the fuse box under the hood. As I think adding wires to the battery looks messy.

Don't run ground wire back to the battery. Chassis ground as close to the load (light, compressor, etc) as possible. This provides protection to the vehicle and your device.


http://assets.bluesea.com/files/resources/newsletter/images/DC_wire_selection_chartlg.jpg

 

I was (and still may) be going with two yellow top group 35's for my setup but lately have been thinking of sticking with the red top (a starter battery) for my main battery and using the yellow top for the fridge, lights and phone charging.

 

been doing a bit of research and for the price I'm not sure if optima is the best choice.
found these at the local Vatozone
https://www.autozone.com/ignition-t...duralast-platinum-battery/377104_276772_25697
they have the same specs as the recommended lighter weight battery by OGE the Deka Intimidator but with a 3 year replacement warranty and with easy customer service right down the road that's hard to pass up!
to me this seems like the best bang for your buck with the added benefit they match my trucks color scheme

 

I've been happy with the advance auto (same battery) platinum agm I have.

 

If you buy it online it's even better. Every time I log in it pops up a 25% off coupon code. Buy it and go pick up in store. Core charge is only $5 at check out (for some reason it say $22 before that) so it's not even worth taking a battery back. I've bought stuff this way while standing in the store from my phone. Saves a lot of money.

 

#ProTip thanks man!

 

Prepare to be stunned at my wiring incompetence and messy engine bay!

Bought the Off Grid Engineering dual battery kit with the wiring harness. It's pricey, but after consulting with some TW members I went for it. I have to say, a fantastically well put together kit, everything is right there and ready to rock. I n00bed up and bought the wrong battery size, but fuck it, they fit and they are essentially identical to the stock size in performance.

Factors that added complexity to the install, in order of importance:

1. my electrical incompetence
2. my mechanical incompetence
3. my inveterate impatience
4. rock lights kit installed in the engine bay
5. warn winch control relocation kit, into engine bay

the kit (plus workbench miscellanea):


before (yes I like driving through mud):


after!:


primary battery, with the Blue Sea 7622 ML-ACR (the control switch is out of shot, just zip-tied into the engine bay for now until I figure out my in-cab switch solution. Janky positioning is courtesy of me buying the wrong group battery


auxiliary battery (ditto on positioning):

 

Nice.

If you have a 3rd gen getting the switch in the cab should be easy with some dremel help on the back of a switch panel. The toughest part was actually running a wire through the firewall.