2nd gens on 37" tires

No worries. I am setup a bit different. I also have a 1” body lift until I get to tub a little more.

The Goodyear MTR are 36.8” diameter and the Falken MT01 are 36.7”, so yes you have a great eye.

Anywho, thanks for all the compliments. I never fully appreciated how much work went into fitting 37” over 35”.

Hell, maybe just find some 38s or 40s. I am a little nervous about tubbing with sheet metal. I have a butt load of electronics by the floor and will take a while to get all of that out of the way. I don’t really like the body lift and just may take it out sooner rather than later along with some preload.

 

What are your guys' serious opinions on 40's? would they fit without Marlin's new RCLT thing? Obviously with copious amounts of tubbing in the fire wall and fender? Would they hit the frame with 3.5" backspace? Also, I know our stock CV's and Tierods/steering racks break. But with out rock bouncing and all that, I don't think they would break so often with careful line choice and going slow. I would probably fab some heimed tierods for the stock rack.

I dunno. I'm just curious how necessary this whole marlin thing is, and how possible it would be to get the extra 1.5 inches of clearance at the fire wall to fit 40's.

I know lots of people will say it's stupid and pointless on IFS and that everything will self destruct as soon as you lower it off the lift, blah blah blah, but people said the same thing about 35's when those were unexplored territory as well.

 

Someone has to be the Guinea pig, try and report back

It would be just as much work to do all that tubbing as to bolt on a long travel that moves the wheel centerline forward. You'd be relocating battery, fuse box, intake, ABS (if applicable). Anything is possible with enough time and patience.

 

Don't think you would have to worry about hitting the frame while at lock. I think you will more have issues at full stuff with the tire in the firewall and like @6 gearT444E said the upper part of the fender well. I think the firewall may end up needing enough tubbing to make it kinda awkward in the DS footwell.
I am not going to go down the it can't be done route because I like seeing people pave new paths and prove others wrong.

 

I've already relocated the hard stuff (batteries & intake), the washer fluid would be easy to move, and so would the stock fuse box. Abs I could probably get away with in mine.

It would be easier to bolt on LT, but way more expensive. I don't have the cash to do LT once I do gears and lockers and tires that's my truck budget done for a while.

Yeah that's more what I'm wondering, as I haven't rubbed for 37s yet, so I don't know exactly what it ends up looking like. Body mount relocate will be made for sure. At least I have an auto so don't have to worry about the clutch pedal.

I'm genuinely curious, because I would 100% try if it's possible to tub that far.

 

Seems kind of stupid and pointless with IFS.

 

What?!??!?!?!?!

Tell that to this guy IFS & IRS

 

Matt's just being a smart ass Skip lol

 

You got me thinking and one thing that none of us has mentioned is stress on the stock Taco diffs and axles. I think at that point if you are wanting to stick with IFS you would need to look into a Dynatrac IFS 9" or the tundra front diff. Also the rear diff. The Tundra 10.5 is the closest bolt in available just need to swap the input flange on your DS and shorten it a bit. But I would imagine unless you put 2 doublers in and just slow speed crawl everything that you'll break stuff rather easily.

 

I know I was being a smartass back because the Outlaw Buggy is something far from a Taco running 40s. Plus he's a crazy Kentuckian so they do crazy shit like building a completely independent suspension rock bouncer.

 

That guy is constantly breaking stuff too.

 

FIFY

 

Lets see if my IFS can handle these 40s.

 

You guys are savage AF...





Best I could do one handed. They are at 35 psi and sit at 35” vertical with the weight of the truck on them. I tried to get the most perpendicular angle on the horizontal shot as possible but it still sucks. Tiresize.com specs them at 36.7” with 20/32 new. They were used and are at 3/8” tread in the photo. My truck weighs about 5800 but that was on 315/75/16 on different rims.

 

Well....you earned it.

 

The tundra front diff has been swapped into a tacoma before. Can't imagine it would be that difficult if you have the tools and guts. But I really think the cv are going to be the biggest issue. Rcv guarantees theirs up to 40s but they are also $2400
I think the 8.4 could handle it if you had a spool or arb locker with chromoly shafts and not carrying a bunch of Overland stuff adding a lot of weight.

Its definitely doable though

 

Ooooooo if the front diff has been swapped before I am definitely interested to see some threads or info on what guys did.
As far as the 8.4 I get you on the axles and stuff I am more worried about the R&P than anything with that. Maybe getting them cryo treated or something.