Hitch/Towing

Hello everyone:

So I have a 2007 SR5 4x4 Access Cab, with a 4.0L Automatic. It didn't come with a hitch, so I am going to purchase one off a 2008 TRD.

Since mine did not come with a tow package, is there anything else I should upgrade? I believe the hitch is Class III, (5000lbs?) but I'm not sure if my truck is capable of hauling that.

Searching through the forums has just raised more questions than provided answers, so I'll try and get them all in here.

1.) 2008 OEM TRD Receiver Hitch for $100. Good deal?

2.) Without modification/upgrade, what's the maximum tow capacity for my truck with this hitch? (SR5 model -- no upgrades)

3.) If applicable, what would I need to upgrade to achieve the maximum towing capacity for my truck and this hitch combination?

Thanks for the help!

 

Get a transmission cooler too. Also a higher capacity battery is recommended but not necessarily needed... Transmission cooler is a must though.

With that I see no reason you shouldn't be at the standard 6500lb rating with the rest of the trucks (although I think DC is 6300 or something now that I think of it). Without the cooler... I probably wouldn't exceed 3000-3500 in fear of overheating the transmission.

 

Depending on what you're hauling, a brake controller might be needed. Also, you may need to wire your truck up for the trailer. There are kits out there that are plug and play for 4-prong connections (no brakes on the trailer). Lots of people on here will tell you add a transmission cooler also, but before you go drilling, you need to assess out how much you'll actually be towing. If you're going to be doing light hauling for short distances, you're fine with the stock set-up, if you plan on towing something heavy for long distances it's a worthwhile upgrade.

 

Also, can't speak for the fitment, but $100 is a good deal on the hitch. New they run $150+ for aftermarket brand hitches.

 

DC short bed is the standard 6500lbs, DC long bed is slightly lower becaseu of the extra weight of the longer frame.

 

It should be bolt on for the transmission cooler? I might be wrong but I doubt they have two different transmission cases...

Good point on the wiring though. I'm not sure what the stock wiring setup is (I think there's still something for the bumper ball hitch) that you might be able to adapt to... but I don't know on that one.

Also yea, $100 is good for a factory hitch. I think I spent like 200 for install on my old ranger on an aftermarket. The fit should be fine... but it is a pain in the arse to do. I'd recommend at least two people work on the install... getting it wedged in that tight fit isn't fun.

 

Thanks guys.

I probably won't be hauling much -- but I'll probably want to get a trailer and take stuff to the dump when I tear down my garage.

I'd still like the capacity to drag a UHaul cross-country if needed. But maybe I can hold off on the cooler and brake controller until then.

Oh -- one more thing. I don't have the TSB, does this cause any issues with achieving the 3500 capacity?

 

3500 should be fine but it all depends on your tonge weight... so distribute it well lol. The TSB would definitely be better than stock.... but necessary probably not.

 

Not sure about the bolt on transmission cooler, if so, that makes it much easier. Last time I looked into them you had to drill the oil pan which really turned me off of them! I have a '07 SR5 double cab, no towing package, and didn't have a damn thing back there for wiring. I only needed the 4-pin connection so I bought a plug and play unit from Autoanything. It splits the connections from the tail lights and saves you from wire splicing. Worked for me but if you need to haul something without surge brakes, you need to go the old fashioned route and wire in a brake controller, lights and power.

 

If you're towing a Uhaul, they have surge brakes so you don't need the brake controller. You're actually required to use a 4-pin connection with their trailers.

 

How did you go from "The Yellow Dart" to "Lost Humanity"? There is an (OP) symbol that allows us slower folks to keep up with the conversation by being able to keep track of who opened the tread.

Don't do that again , please.

 

Whoops.

A buddy of mine who works with me is on this forum, too. We share workstations occasionally and I guess he logged on while I was working on another project.

I came back and just checked the Topic without checking the login.

Sorry for the confusion!

 

Hahaha! Nick, you're an idiot.

Just kidding! Now get back to work!

 

I have a 2x4 06 Access cab with out the tow package. Can i then tow 3500 lbs? and if looking at a camper what do i need to know to determine if i can tow it?

 

the rear bumper ball mount is rated at 3500lbs. look at the camper's gvwr, and factor in the weight for all of your gear, food, clothing, etc that will also be inside it when towing. add that to the gvwr, and see if it come in at under 3500. even if it does though, you'll be happier, and have a realy nice peice of mind if you pick up an actual hitch reciever.

 

I have an '07 DC short bed 4x4 with the tow package and tow a 16' foot 3000lbs. trailer frequently and load it up with all kinds of random crap from time to time. Truck pulls great without problems stops when it needs to, oh and I believe with the tow package they also up the altenator <----(sp) out put. If you just plan on towing a u-haul trailer or random garbage you should be fine.

 

All the capacities for your truck are in the owners manual. It lists all options for your vehicle and their associated ratings.

 

It appears Toyota changed the tow capacity numbers for the 2011 models. Prior to that they were all given the 6500lb number.

 

Thanks again for all the info guys.

I picked the hitch up this morning in Tacoma and I'm taking it to the shop tomorrow to get installed and the 4-pin surge brake wiring.

 

I would go ahead and put a 7pin on it. Its easier to go from 7-4 than 4-7. I bought a little $8 adapter for when I tow stuff with a 4 flat.