Any plumbers here?

Under the floor joist, not visible in his pic

 

very simple
introduce the drain T through the center of the joist...add small section of piping...
apply 90 degress elbow & feed into vertical pipe leading to drain point

you will need to cut & modify existing piping to pull this off
if you hire someone they will do the same thing as I described

remember you always want 1/4" drop in piping per foot to provide good gravity drainage

 

Reframe with steel. We’ll want to transfer the load to the slab, just to be sure we should redo the foundation with the correct placement of load bearing points. I recommend a full scrape and rebuild. Geotechnical testing of the soil will be required. Keep in mind that we may need to move the location of the structure to a more favorable geographic location.

 

why not hire elon musk to fix this oil based issue.....hahahahhaha

 

Not a plumber, but saw this thread and have reno'd 3 bathrooms, and am bored/drunk right now. Where's the p-trap for this? Does your bathroom smell like dooky?

Anyways, I'd just chop and add a couple of elbows. A pic is worth 1000 words:



PVC is super-easy to work with, talk to the plumbing guy at home depot or lowes. Buy primer, glue, and a small bit of pipe to make this happen. The angle you're dealing with is a bit fucked, I'd use one of these to cut it: https://www.homedepot.com/p/RYOBI-1...ulti-Tool-Attachment-Tool-Only-P340/202868525 - Harbor Freight has an equivalent if you're only needing it for this job.

Oh, uh if two elbows makes it too deep, use a closet elbow. That'll give you less of a drop.

I didn't see your location, I could do this in like 20 minutes if you were nearby. Definitely not plumber-worthy. Either way, have your tub first with the plumb kit for it -- some tubs require you get the kit for the tub (put in a huge soak tub once like that) to make sure it'll fit.

 

But that tub isnt going to drain for shit with that elbow work.

 

How do you think p-traps drain????

 

I get that they usually have a "u" but that just looks and feels wrong right there...it may work, but I would not do it that way.

 

It's better than cutting the joist!

 

funny how this has nothing to do with toyota or a taco...but here we are
I love plumbing
my first real gig
worked retail sales in the plumbing dept at orchard supply hardware in san jose on alum rock from 93-94
then transfered to san fernando valley store on sepulveda & magnolia from 94-96 while attending CSUN

modern plumbing is important, without which we would all be crapping in the woods....fun shit huh?

 

that wouldn't work. The drain would have to be higher than the tee or it will just backup into the tub

 

Do not do this.

 

I’ve been a remodeling carpenter for 25 years, and damn do some people have no business giving advice. Just because you hacked together a couple bathrooms for your brother doesn’t qualify you at all, in fact it makes you just informed enough to be truly dangerous.

Follow the plumbing code religiously in these situations, a tub letting loose 20 gallons of water because you didn’t glue it properly or skimped or didn’t connect it correctly won’t be fun when water is pouring through the can lights in the ceiling below.

The best thing according to structural code, etc is to head off that joist in the pic and in effect box around the new lower drain and give yourself ample room.

Personally I’d just make the notch. It’s going to be under the tub and close to the wall so most of the weight will be in the center of the tub not to mention, those joists look like 2x10’s, that close to a wall, it’s likely going yo be fine unless you have a huge open floor plan below with no bearing points close to that cut

Another alternative, sister another joist/double it up for at least 4 ft to either side of the notch, or from bearing point to bearing point, whichever is closer, but you’ll need to open up more subfloor or go from below.

You also have a heat duct right next to that drain, if you drop waste from the tub you’re going to be hitting that duct, likely not a huge deal, but not great either, possibly create an issue with noise transfer and if the drain is sitting directly on it not sure if the heat would degrade the plastic over time

Maybe just crush the duct a bit and stuff some insulation between it and the waste to minimize the noise and heat transfer.

 

Holy crap I had to make an account just to comment. Here's what everyone else is missing. The furnace duct runs under the tub. So if there's a P trap it's lower and out of sight. This also limits the ability to drill a hold bc of the amount of the joist showing. Back farther, idk who, some one got it right. If this bathroom sits on the last 1/3 then notch the damn joist. For extra support because it's a notch, run a flat strip of metal over the pipe and nailed on each side with a few nails. You'll have to move the tee down and rerun the vent. I'd personally remove the drain, dry fit the tub, mark the drain on the duct work. Then take out the tub and build the drain. Afterwards install the tub and hope to God you can get the vent in.

 

This ^

 

Or put a mobile home tub in

 

They don’t sit flat on floor allowing space for piping etc to pass under.