The ultimate headlight upgrade H4 (not LED or HID)

Well, it is the hunt for what are the best bulbs as measured by science. I've upped my game so far beyond when this thread was created it isn't even funny. But in order to take things to the next level, it is just not feasibly practical to test it in a vehicle. After going to standardized lab bench testing, I can give you so many highly detailed specs on 3rd gen headlight options for output and color temperature, standardized quantifiable performance measurements, power draw ect. Meaning I can decisively tell you what is the best option on the market backed by data. My 2nd Gen thread lacks that level of detail, so I'm going to fix that and bring the science backed data to 2nd gen for the best recommendations possible.

 

So that would mean that the information on the best 2nd gen bulbs will be out shortly after that and then I can start spending even more money on bulbs a few days later. Splendid!

 

On the note of bulbs to choose from is there a link for all 1st gen bulbs? Interior, and exterior? Recently lead a guy to tw and trying to help him out.

 

1st gen headlights are also H4 and take the same upgrade. If they are pre-98 then the also need to convert from old sealed beams to interchangeable H4s with new housings. Recommended swap is Hella 200mm E-code H4 conversion.

Hella 200mm E-vide H4 conversion for pre-98:

$120 Hella 200mm Rectangular E Code H4 Halogen Replacement Headlight Kit with Standard 60/55W H4 Bulbs

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FLWSX6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_SaOGCbR5CTSFX

Here is a first gen that did the headlight upgrade:
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/proper-headlight-upgrade.407879/

 

Here is the 1st Gen bulb guide:
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/first-gen-bulb-types-fyi.128857/

 

Hey sorry to be “that guy” but I don’t have my tools to check my ground on my harness with me. Does anybody know what type of harness I need for my 2011?

 

And then you need a 4Runner thread

 

Omg!!!!

 

At which point do we Stop Flashin' & Start

 

The ironic thing is most pods put out less light than a stock H4. So not only did you fubar your beam pattern, loose your cut offs, loose your pull pattern distance projection, you also put out less light than stock. Somebody always has to challenge Darwin's theories.

 

Yes
Just thought I’d share.
I was pretty shocked that someone would actually try and run this kind of set up,

 

Wow, I didn’t realize that was on TW. I was really nice in my response.

 

Yes I would’ve shared the link to this thread, but I didn’t want to start a
I did share the link to this thread with him. To try and educate

 

I’m not. I see people do this all the time

 

Yea, but it's usually on a clapped out Kia with a JC Whitney ground effects kit, a fart pipe duct taped to the exhaust system and booma-booma sound system.

 

Nah, those are yellow HIDs in reflector housings lol

 

My next crazy idea.

My OEM battery gave up the ghost recently, pretty disappointing quality from Toyota to die in under 4 years. I replaced it with a Northstar AGM 27F, the highest quality battery I could find. The Northstar puts all other batteries to absolute shame, including brands like Optima. Compare the CA difference of Optima yellow top 1025A vs Northstar 1750A. The power difference is readily apparent when you turn the key and the starter turns over 2x faster. But what was interesting, was the Northstar voltage specs, cycle service charge 14.4-14.8v. A typical lead acid battery is 13.8~14.3v. Meaning not only is the battery have far more capacity, it can run at higher voltage and actually specs to do so. I measured my alternator output at idle from the battery terminals at 14.1v. Remember halogen output is near exponentially related to voltage. Higher end high output alternators spec 14.8v charge at idle. Meaning it would be possible to gain 0.7v at idle, which is about 2x the benefit of the harness. To put that in a more quantitative way, I'd estimate 20-25% more output from the Ultimate Headlight Upgrade running at the higher voltage. If you already run this upgrade, you realize what that means.

The battery and alternator upgrade would certainly not be cost effective for lighting performance on their own. I had to replace my battery and chose to purchase the very best replacement possible, which happens to spec higher voltage. And I've considered adding a winch, which would benefit from the alternator upgrade and will be doing a radiator upgrade this spring to better handle the high temp low speed desert off road hill climbs that almost cooked my truck last year. So while I have the radiator out, I'll likely replace the alternator as well.

 

Would this alternator upgrade put us at risk of melting the headlight housing? I already felt kinda bad for the car in front of me at the light this morning. Kinda.

 

I can take heat measurements at 14.8v with my new power supplies and headlight assemblies that will be in this week, but I wouldn’t think so. I think your challenge for cars ahead of you is more inline with being lifted so high.

 

Well, better put 35s back on so I'm above their roof line.