3rd Gen Owners with King Coilovers

Hmm...seems like something Ill break by continually adjusting and messing with. Do they generally ride softer or stiffer than something like say 5100s?

 

Fool proof and they wont break. I usually don't recommend adjusters if you live in an area with road salt. Unless you are diligent in keeping them clean. Cant even mention Bilsteins and Kings in the same sentence-haha...better ride overall. Softer in a sense on the road, but designed to keep up with piston velocity offroad because of how the internals are designed.

 

OKOK, I probably wont get the adjusters anyway. For a $300 diff on the rear and $1500 diff on the front I think Ill take them as they are lol.

 

Lol yeah maybe he put the leaf springs on the wrong side too.... on a serious note though the tires are right at a 33 and I agree with alignment being able to take care of a lot of things but some of my concerns I'm not sure about. Right now I'm on lunch driving on the interstate and at a higher rate of speed size 60 or 70 when I get a bump or dip I get a little bit of a hard hit in the front. You don't think I have those push too far out on the threads do you? I'll continue to report back with my feedback and solutions or issues. It seems to absorb a rough wavy Road well but hitting a hole or a bump is kind of jarring in the front, is that also something an alignment can help with? I just don't want to damage anything or mess anything up when it could have been prevented thanks for your help. Oh and one more thing when I take a curve like an exit ramp with a little more speed like a ylwide turn it seems to make a screeching noise and it actually sounds like it's the tires themselves. I'm just all to hell if you can't tell I expected to slap these Beauties on and just be smooth sailing from here LOL

 

Tire squealing and some other stuff will go away with an alignment, that's a guarantee.
Now, jarring and stuff might be attributed to heavy springs, and not enough weight (maybe). I have 650# springs on my truck, and might have to upgrade to 700 when bumper arrives, not before.
So, not an expert advice, do the alignment and take it from there. You have too many things going on right now, where a lot of them , if not most will get corrected on Saturday.
Good luck.

This guys seem to know what they're talking about, lol.

 

Also, in my opinion it's a questionable practice at best, to drive a misaligned car/truck for prolonged periods of time, especially at high rates of speed. But I'm not an expert, so take it with a grain of salt.
One more thing about the tires, they're new, right? What pressure are you running them? Too high of a pressure will make ride less comfortable, and will add to tire squeal.

 

Don't blame you man with the cost of the suspension. You don't expect to pay 2500-3000 on the Kings alone to have issues such as jarring. This is my biggest hesitation.

 

In case this is happening to you, I had a slight bump or knocking sound coming from my sway bar. I forgot to tighten it up all the way so it was a bit loose making a knocking sound over speed bumps and getting into my driveway. Went away once I tightened them up.
Other members mentioned that the sway bar was touching their springs I think, so they rotated the spring to avoid contact.

Then again, some members remove the sway bar all together.

 

Does anyone have a link to where i can buy King bump stops for both the front and rear?

 

Jake,

Shoot me a DM. I can help you out.

 

What’s the load rating on your tires? That was the biggest thing when it came to feeling the road a little more than I would like. I had both C and E rated on KO2s and will say it’s night and day. I’m currently on E and I feel more than I would like to. Will be switching back to C later down the road since I don’t want to burn all my money all the time. Also like others said, 700 is stiffer and you need quite a bit of weight to counterbalance it. I have a front skid, sliders, front steel bumper and winch on 600s and it feels pretty good. Height sagged though and now I’m back down to only a little over 1” lift on 8-9 threads. I’ll be turning it back up another 4 threads and see how it goes before even thinking of going higher on the springs.

 

Awesome you have been more than helpful!?I'll get the measurements tomorrow tho? Thanks for the advice!I think my guy is good with alignment, he said he doesn't want me taking it anywhere else bc its not an hour hibb and will take some time.He will definitely have to get the driver side uca pushed forward towards the front, but I do agree and think that even a lot of the rubbing can be worked out with a good accurate alignment!!I'll definitely let you know and get a report on my settings when done .

 

Well that's good to hear, but I was recommended the 700lb coils bc of that exactly. I have a front steel bumper and winch, and will eventually have skids, I also already have steel sliders.I don't really think much else will attribute weight in the front,I'm adding a roof rack soon too but all other things will be on roof or other the bed or further back.

 

I can understand that and why, but i would not say it will be a prolonged period of time by any means. I've so far probably had maybe 50 miles max, and about half of that on the interstate.Tomorrow I have about 25 miles of travel and then Saturday it's off for alignment, so I sure hope that's not enough to kill anything. Tires are not new to the truck,

 

Not sure but I will check that tomorrow for sure, thanks for the advice. On the backroads and some of which were dang rough the ride took it like a champ and absorbed it soooooo well.it was today on the highway that I felt a bit of a jar when hitting a bump but it wasn't every rough spot either. Pretty hard hit sound tho and definitely up front. Almost just like a pop when it hit just like the dang wheel was hitting it hard.

 

they are 10 ply at the moment, plan to eventually change them tho but want everything straight as is bc I know how it was before, and therefore .I'll know when its right or at least when its not having issues i didn't before the parts bc the tires were on before the kings!weird thing is they were extremely quite before, and idk that's the cause im just giving an example that my consistent rumbling sounds almost just sound like a chunky tire on pavement or a loud tire would.read above on my spring rate and parts on already, I was told I definitely needed the 700lb coils. Hope that was accurate information.

 

Yeah I think it’s just personal preference. I reached out to Kings and Demello (front bumper) before installing the bumper and they both said I should be fine which so far it’s been great. I think it’s just personal preference. Some like a firmer ride I like it super plush. Also I’m not looking for more than 2” of lift so I can deal with the preload since it’s not making me lose any travel.

 

Got it. I've made a wrong assumption, and I shouldn't have. My bad.
700# springs are a right choice for your setup. As will be for me, whenever my bumper will show up....

Non the less, I'm all out of guesses for your issues. Hopefully there will be some improvements on Saturday.

 

@state48overland, this build looks similar to what I have and you seem to know what's going on, so I have a questions maybe you could give some insight.

My suspension includes the following.

Front: King 25001-119A-EXT, Total Chaos Uni-ball UCA's, 700# Coils, Total Chaos Weld-On Spindle Gussets
Rear: King PR2510-SSPB-A, Total Chaos Rear Shock Hoop Kit, King 2.0 X 4.0 Bump Stops, Total Chaos Rear Bump Stop Kit, Deaver U402 Expedition II Leaf Pack

I have a steel plated front bumper with a winch, a steel plated rear bumper w/ swing out, tire carrier and two gas cans. And an aluminum bed rack with a RTT. Long story short, a lot of added weight. The ass end of my truck has started to sag a bit since the Deaver's have settled. Also, with all the added weight on the end of the bed, when measured from the front of the bed to the back it has dropped about an inch.

Question. Should I upgrade to the Expedition III's or lower the preload on my coilovers? What is the trade off? The truck rides reasonably well as a DD at it's current setting. If I go up to the III's, does that create other issues besides just riding stiffer? Could the rear shocks even handle it, if they have to extend another inch or two? Would adding the III's help with the added weight on the back of the truck? If I lower the preload, does that limit my up travel?

I've included a pic so you can get a fill for the current set up. This picture was taken soon after install, so it sits pretty level. It currently drops 1" from the front to back, when loaded with gear it drops another 1".

 

Thanks for reaching out man! I am not an expert by any means here and hope I don't come off like one. But here is my assessment. You have leverage weight vs. spring sag imho. Kind of like tongue weight from a trailer effect because the weight extends past the rear bumper. While I would like to say yeah buddy, order the Expo III pack we got you covered the reality is you can likely mitigate the leverage 'sag' by going directly to Deaver (not possible since you live in SLC not SoCal) re-arch the springs and have them dial you in for less than the cost of a new leaf pack or simply call Scott over there at 714-542-3703.

The recommendation may be a longer leaf replacement below and a smaller above to disburse load more evenly in the pack. You will gain the inch back through leaf thickness, weight load leveling and arch/rate of the actual leaf/leaves. Of course a longer center pin and retainer clips may be needed. But this may come out less expensive than a full leaf pack replacement.

I think your rear shock will be just fine -they are 10" stroke shocks and have plenty of room to move in that leaf pack.
I run a similar relo in my gen 2 granted I run Deaver SUAs. Your front settings will be fine after you sort the rear pack which is what I would definitely focus on, given the weight you run back there.