Power Tailgate Lock

I didn't notice the "Gilbert, AZ" part

 

Anyways. .. got in there. tighter than a drum. regreased the whole lock mechanism, and thought. . hey, I haven't bled profusely in a while and installed some second skin damplifier.

seems to be working again (time will tell stupid intermittent problems) but it's quieter. lol.

 

Thanks to @Aznray and @benkitesurfs for the idea.

 

Just wanted to say thanks to the guys above as well! Made my life easier that I didn’t have to look for the part numbers to the items needed.

 

Thanks to your post decided to have one made too with a little tweaking. Had a couple buddies who work and own a motorsports wiring business help me make the harness adapter, also had them change out the bullet style connectors with something much better too. Works perfectly.

 

After reading all 31 pages I decided to take all of the good ideas and installed an actuator as well. I noticed a common frustration and designed mine to make it easier to mount. On Amazon I found an actuator that had an adapter that attaches to an existing rod. So I cut a small piece of 12 gauge solid wire and bent it to fit the lock arm hole. Then I attached the adapter to it and the actuator rod into the adapter. This way all I needed to do was tighten the set screw at the proper distance with no bending.


I also borrowed the idea of bending the mounting bracket into a rectangle to use as a spacer. Further, I used rubber washers and window stripping to keep the actuator sound from transferring to the tailgate.
Another note about the sound, I tested it using a 9v battery and it worked perfectly and quietly. But when I used 12v the action became a lot more violent and louder. I read another member thought about installing a resistor. Does anyone know of an in line 12v to 9v resistor?

 

Hello to all. I've looked at all the pages and I'm just waiting for parts to arrive to install. I remember seeing a post where a member had used a wood spacer between the tail gate and the actuator. I didn't see it in this thread and was wondering if anyone can direct me to that post. Thank you. Rick.

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/10-diy-power-lock-tailgate.424052/page-6#post-17483799

 

That's the one. Thanks.

 

Those wires look to be a lot bigger than the OEM. Do you know what size the OEM wires are for that plug. I was thinking 22

 

Thanks benkitesurfs and Aznray. I made one of these myself Would have been easier if I had a crimping tool. Always get extra pins and sockets so you can screw a few up like me. I used a Delphi MP150U as the connector to the Pop and Lock wire.

 

Not sure what size the OEM wires are. I went with 16 gauge to match the field serviceable pig tails that aznray found. I figured that there's really not downside to oversizing the wires in this scenario.

 

Sorry, I see you posted this months ago, but just for the sake of those reading this thread in the future:
I didn't mess around with this color wire, or this number wire. I took my multimeter and some very small probes, stuck them in the back of the wiring harness, and pushed my lock and unlock buttons. This way I confirmed for myself which wires are doing the switching on my truck.

 

This should do it

KNACRO DC-DC 12V to 9V 2A Step-down power supply module Car power converter module Synchronous buck With Reverse connection protection

KNACRO DC-DC 12V to 9V 2A Step-Down Power Supply Module Car Power Converter Module Synchronous Buck with Reverse Connection Protection

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06VT5DVG1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_UCMjCbNB53PK3

 

Unfortunately, these only work one way. The polarity must reverse to reverse the actuator.

 

I see the parts listed for the plug and play harness but I can’t figure out how to make the harness. Do one of y’all mind explaining how and where to put the wires? I’m kind of a moron when it comes to electronics, so...

 

Does anyone have a wiring diagram showing which pins go to which? I've got all the parts but i'm hoping I don't have to pull off the panel and write down which pin maps to which socket to wire everything up.

Thanks.

 

Got my tailgate lock installed and functional. I cheated and tied the wires for the tailgate lock to the wires for the lock on the topper. They were right there in the back and easily accessed in the terminal block from the topper folks.

 

Someone wired the topper first though. I'd bet if you chased the topper wires they tap the same lock wires in the cab that those of us without a topper need to tap.

 

No OEM connectors needed, just the terminal wires soldered to the added harness from the locking solenoid, remove J17, remove cap, open locking bar insert into correct opened slots. Very inexpensive.