2nd gen JBL specs and “easy” upgrade options

I have a 15 TRD sport double cab with the JBL stereo and am pretty sure I’ve blown my passenger tweeter. I listen to a lot of podcasts and have to turn the volume waaaaay up at higher speeds due to my obnoxiously loud (out of round and missing chunks of rubber) BFG MTs. I think something about the large variance in volume in podcasts due to the lack of sound engineers on ameteur productions has destroyed my tweeters (or maybe they just suck). Since I need to replace them anyways and the rattling of every plastic piece in the interior with any heavy bass drives me insane I am planning to do some basic speaker and sound deadening upgrades. I don’t want to replace the head unit or amp because I like the stock look and function and don’t really need a audiophile level system. My plan is to replace the front door speakers with a 6 1/2” component, the backs doors with a 6 1/2” 2-way, and the subwoofer with a DVC low impedance 8” in the factory enclosure. While the panels are off I will cover everything in 80 mil Killmat (budget dynamat), put a 12” square of eggcrate foam behind all speakers, and stuff the sub enclosure with poly fill. My concern is finding speakers that will play nice with the impedance of the factory JBL amp. I’ve searched high and low and can’t find specs for that sucker, it seems like it is pushing 2 ohms but I’m not sure and I’ve no idea about the wattage. Does anybody have suggestions? I’m currently looking at the JBL GTO series of speakers (they are cheap on Amazon and it would be kind of cool to have a “good” JBL system), and a MTX 8” shallow mount sub.

JBL GTO609C Premium 6.5-Inch Component Speaker System - Set of 2 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ANI3LAK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_PuFUBb0RPGD5P

JBL GTO629 Premium 6.5-Inch Co-Axial Speaker - Set of 2 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ANIECRQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_vvFUBb9KK6RZ3

Kicker 8 Inch Dual 600 Watt CompRT 2 Ohm Shallow Slim Car Subwoofer | 43CWRT82

$160 Kicker CompRT8 8" (20cm) Subwoofer, DVC, 2-Ohm, 300W

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BLVEXH2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_5vFUBbHVCXMX9

 

I have the exact same JBL GTO's in my truck. They will work fine on the amp. The only thing that I don't like is that the stock jbl amp acts as a crossover as well. The rear door speakers have full range coming to them and sound great. However, the front doors are a different story. The stock 6x9's only have low frequency coming to them and the tweeters only have high frequency coming to them. So if you install the new crossover with the GTO's, you should just use the tweeter wire. If you want any bass, just don't use the GTO crossover and connect the stock wires to your new speakers. I really don't like the way jbl did the stock amp. I agree with you on keeping the stock hu, I have kept mine and it sounds great. It just took a lot of research on this awesome forum to make it all come together. If you want a nice full range signal coming to your front door speakers and keep the stock hu, a loc with another amp is one option. Good luck man!

 

If you actually want to improve your sound but retain all factory functionality, get the PAC AmpPRO

$329 AP4-TY12 Amppro 4 Amp Interface (Select 2012-2018 Toyota(R) & Lexus(R) Vehicles with Jbl(R) or Premium Amplified Sound Systems), 1 Pack

AP4-TY12. This creates a clean 6v pre-out signal that allows you to perfectly and easily add amplifiers when replacing your speakers. It's expensive, but well worth it if you want to retain your factory head unit

 

That’s awesome, so don’t use the supplied crossover from the components? Makes sense, I suppose whatever frequency range the JBL amp is suppling should be similar enough to the speaker specs to not do any damage. Thanks for the info, how does it sound with that set up?

 

The tweeters sound good connected straight to the factory amp. The 6.5's not so much. The stock amp only sends bass to the stock 6x9's so you will only have bass coming out of your 6.5's. I just used the stock tweeter wire as the input for the jbl crossover that came with the components. It sounds okay since I have 2 12's behind the back seat. In the factory setup the 6x9's actually put out more bass than the 8 inch sub in my opinion. After I get the audio control lc7i, I should get full range signal to my front components and it should sound great. The rear 6.5's already have full range coming to them so they sound great already. Just about everyone on this forum will tell you to get rid of the stock hu. I agree that it is a pain, but I really like the interface with the stock hu and my phone as well as the steering wheel controls. I have about $800 in my system right now and it sounds better than a $2,000 system that I had in my 1994 F-150 years ago. You can get a great set up for not a lot of money ( compared to my old system) if you do your research and take your time. I bought everything I am running now from Amazon lol!

 

As far as the specs for the stock jbl amp, I can't remember. I found it on here when I was installing my stuff but I can't remember where. I think the ohms were around 3 and the watts were around 400, but don't quote me on that. Just remember, everyone has an opinion on what you should do or use ( including me) but just use what you like and sounds good to you. This is your truck so whatever you like matters more than whatever anyone else thinks.

 

Just did a bit of digging around on here, and from what I can tell is that the stock jbl amp is 2 ohm and 45 watts per door and 90 watts to the sub. Hope that helps.

 

If you're planning on doing the LC7i, I would recommend spending a little extra cash and getting the AMPpro AP4-TY11 instead. This creates true pre-amp outputs from the actual data signal, instead of using a hi-lo converter like the LC7i. This will give you Full Range front/rear/sub channels, as well as a bass knob. This creates the cleanest possible signal for adding aftermarket amps. Also, the LC7i can only sum 3 pairs of audio, but you have 4 (tweets, front, rear, sub)

I personally amp running the LC7i so I'm not talking down on it. It is great for my non-jbl system. But with the JBL, you have the ability to utilize an AMPpro and I highly recommend doing so!

 

Thanks for the info. I haven't looked at the AMPpro yet. Sounds like I may have to check it out. The LC7i would have enough channels because I am using the supplied crossover with the GTO components, so it only takes one channel per side for the front. But if the AMPpro gives me a cleaner digital signal it's something that I will consider. I only recently got back in the mobile audio world after about 10 years spending money raising kids. Now I have a little extra sometimes so I jumped back in. Man have I missed it! A lot has changed in 10 years. When I started looking at adding some 12's to my Tacoma I was really surprised at everything it took with the factory jbl. Thanks again for the info.

 

Yeah definitely look into the amp pro. absolutely worth it if you plan on adding an amp.

 

I have a Pioneer D-9601 with 2 pioneer ibflat shallow mount 12 inch subs now. I tapped in the jbl amp with a lc2i. It sounds great with the subs, but maybe the amp pro would sound better with the mids and highs. I was just planning on going with the lc7i because of my experience with the lc2i. I just hate not having full range on my new components up front. I took a quick look at the amp pro and from what I can tell it looks like you plug it in to your hu. Have you ever installed one?

 

I have installed several. And yes, it plugs into the factory head unit. Then you simply run RCA's to your new amps, and then speaker wire from the new amp over to the JBL wiring

 

100% need to do the amp pro. Amplified systems keeping factory id.... this is the way to go

 

Sounds like the way to go. Thanks for your help man.

 

So i have the same JBl package in my truck and I ran a LOC from my stock amp to my new and put in a skar IX 8" behind my seat and everything is working but the only problem is my mids and i think highs are playing the same low frequencies as my sub and i feel like ima damage them. So do you have any suggestions on what I could to prevent that? do I need a crossover of some sort ?

 

Are you running your mids and highs on the stock JBL amp?

 

Yeah, the only thing that is hooked up to my new amp is my sub and the highs and mids are still on the jbl amp. The highs and mids are still the factory jbl ones.

 

Then they’re not playing low enough to damage them. The JBL amp is crossed over internally and is only sending the highs to your tweets and the mids to your doors. Don’t worry, you’re good

 

ohh okay sounds good thanks

 

Can anyone give a good review on switching from OEM JBL system to the GTO's?? How significant was the improvement??

Plan to do this but not sure if it would be just a plug and play or more technical