Fox Life!!! Anything Related to Fox Suspension

so i’ve narrowed down to upgrade my PRO front and rear with 2.5s but someone educate me on what determines or considerations should i consider if i need the 2.5s with resi or without or with resi/adjusters???


i want a comfortable ride for daily driving but wheel once a month and hit the trails (UT, AZ, moab, etc) a few times a year... i have a slimline front bumper and winch too

 

I would really consider getting the DSC's, it adds a little bit of $$ but will allow you to set the truck for street use and then off road instead of trying to find a middle ground. Resi's will pay for themselves by allowing you to rebuild. This is all from research and talking with the guys @AccuTune Offroad about what I want to do to my truck, I have yet to do the upgrade.

 

Hi all!
I ordered the Fox 2.5 extended fronts (non-resi) and 2.0 extended rear (w resi) and I got a call telling me that they needed to "make them" and would be 12 weeks out, so I cancelled the order and I'm looking for someone else that might have them in stock, here in Canada.

While I am looking, I thought I'd ask some questions that may impact my decision to actually order this set up again.

Many have posted that they are very happy with the results and the ride. If some of you could be so kind as to go a little further into the actual differences ,in ride, for me and the rest of us considering this mod, that'd me great!!!

I have a 2009 DCSB 4x4 with a 2.75 spacer in the front and a 1 inch block and air bags in the back. I'm running 285/70/17s as well. I've never had a problem with the ride. It seems to be equivalent to my buddy's '11 DCLB in stock form.

I have "off-roaded" twice since I bought the truck new and I use that term loosely.

If I can improve the ride characteristics significantly, then this seems like a decent trade off for the money.

Here's what I'm dealing with, for consideration;

This is my DD. It is on paved road 99% of the time, however, our roads are subject to temperatures between -40'C (-40'F) to +30'C (86'F) and all types of weather, snow and ice. Subsequently, we have potholes, uneven pavement and frost heaves (a small road imperfection that I can liken to a 2X4 lying perpendicular to your driving direction, like a small speed bump). In winter, the snow and ice can make "washboard-like" conditions.

Although I think of off-roading (thus, I have a lift and larger tires), I don't actually do it. In the same vein, I THINK coil over will be awesome, but may never use them properly to know the difference. I do admit, that there have been times that I would have liked to take the fire road, but wasn't confident in the set-up I had being appropriate. The coilovers would cure me of that, to be sure.

So, if some of you could comment on the differences the coilovers make specifically, compared to stock, on city roads, highway drives, over rough pavement and snow/icy conditions, that would be great! If you could comment on the differences off-road, that would also be great.

I'm most interested in your opinions after having CO's for a while and WHY they are worth it, or not, in real world daily driving, compared to stock set up. Not looking for, "they are awesome!" or "Go for it, you'll love 'em" type answers, please. I'd prefer, "this is how my truck rode differently after adding the Fox coilovers. On pavement... On highway... offroad... etc."

I'm sitting at 38 3/4 inches up front and 40 1/4 inches in the rear and would be keeping these heights with the coilovers.

I have LR UCAs as well.

Thanks to all!!

Barrett

 

I'm working on Fox 3.0 Internal bypasses. For the unfamiliar, these have 2.5" pistons. Essentially a larger version of the TRD Pro, with much greater capacity. I might ratchet them up a couple more notches with some neat features, a bottom out cup for the final inch, and making the IBP reed valves externally adjustable... should be fun. More info as the weather here in New England warms up.

 

Nope. I do wish I had done DSC in the rear instead of just a single clicker. I also wish I knew early on that it’s not true low/high speed adjustments, but rather based on shaft position. Basically, the
Low speed clicker controls first short length of compression and High speed the remainder - regardless of rate of compression. So, it’s not how fast but rather how much of the travel you are using.
It works great, but made the first few months of tweaking a little frustration having been used to clickers on my dirt bikes.

 

Not sure where you got that, but they really are low and high speed compression. Low speed compression effects g-out and road feel. High speed is whoops and big hits. DSC adjusters are not position sensitive. Just want to keep this clear and happy to explain why they work the way they do and how that impacts what you’re feeling. Thanks!


https://accutuneoffroad.com/articles/how-fox-dsc-dual-speed-compression-adjusters-work/

 

Andrew - on 2/7 when I called to discuss replacing the rears

What you explain below is standard. I get it. However, Andrew said that it’s position related which didn’t make sense - he then provided the description I mentioned.

Oh well. Suspenders are great.

Edit: I’d like to know why he told me this.

 

Sounds like he might have been talking about bypass shocks vs DSC shocks? It may have also been in response to a question about when you feel which more. Most shocks with harsh small bump compliance have a low speed problem. Just postulating...

 

Ok. That’s plausible. My question was specifically related to the relationship between the low and high speed. Low speed settings do have a minor influence on the high side, whereas the high speed is only supposed to affect the high side. I mentioned that it felt like the high speed adjustments were making it difficult to tune the low speed settings. He responded with the shaft displacement description.

It’s ok. No biggie. Your product is awesome and the customer service even better. Thanks Ryan.

 

How on earth is everyone muscling their remote resis into place? I swear to god I am twisting and pushing as hard as I can on these things and it's nowhere close to even being able to think about putting a hose clamp over it.

I have the proper side installed, the resi is pointing in the right direction, this is a brand new kit from Accutune,

$1,594 880-06-418 Rear Coilover Shock Absorbers Fits Toyota Tacoma

880-06-418 so absolutely no doubt the right parts in the kit. Bracket is installed in the right direction per fox instructions, everything is exactly as stated in instructions.



So what the f**k is going on?? I had to trim a little bit of the splash guard too, because the resi is so long.

 

It's tough but it helps a lot to slightly turn the fitting on the reservoir. Loosen it ever so slightly, turn about 10 or 15 degrees and then tighten it back down. It won't leak.

 

I was reluctant to do that but I reckon I will have to... tomorrow. I got it mounted and mostly muscled into place but the hose clamp closest to the resi fitting won't sit down into its slot on the mount because the resi sits too far forwards. It's actually contacting the frame with the cover for the schrader valve.

Then do it all over again on the driver's side!!!

 

I picked up some Fox 2.5 dsc w/ adjustable resi’s last month and finally was able to get the stock springs swapped out for 14” 650 Eibach’s. I have a group 31 battery, sliders, and before the lift installing a RCI steel front skid- Installing co’s next weekend. I had the passenger set to 1 1/2” preload and driver to 1 9/16” preload. How much lift should this give me on each side? I could never get a definitive answer from any off road shop or Fox. Thanks TW!

 

Contacting the valve stem is not a good idea. I loosened the hose clamp enough to use a large screwdriver as a lever to push the resi back away from the frame.

 

Yeah I got it sorted, I used a wrench as a lever but same deal. Loosen the fittings by like an 8th of a turn and it’s all gravy.

 

Are you asking about preload or amount of threads showing? You’ll need at least 2” of preload (spring compressed to 12”) to get the collars on. I’m just as heavy as you and have 14” 600lb eibachs with @1.25” of threads above the collar on the passenger side and 1.5” on the driver. Gives me about 2.25” of lift over stock.

 

I have 1 1/2” of threads showing on the passenger side and 1 9/16” on the driver side. With the 650lb springs will that give me more than 2.25” of lift over stock? Would make it a total 3.25” if lift??

 

Your spring rate is 650, mine is 600. Not that much of a difference. Put them on and adjust if necessary. Once you have the on and have a reference height, a rough number is: 1/4” of threads = 1/2” of change in height.

 

Thanks. I’m not sure if it makes a difference but the 650 springs are 14”. Stock springs are 13”

 

I have 14” 600lb springs. The 2” preload number came straight from Accutune when they built them for me.

I edited my post above since I forgot that critical piece of info.