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Moving Front Axle Forward As far As Possible? Tips Please 1985 4runner - 3.4 swap

Discussion in 'Solid Axle Suspension' started by troy_gold, Mar 10, 2019.

  1. Mar 10, 2019 at 10:39 AM
    #1
    troy_gold

    troy_gold [OP] Member

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    Hey Guys,

    Doing some homework here and i got a 1985 4runner im about to put down for a while for some upgrades.

    Im doing a 3.4 swap and also putting high steer at the same time.

    My goal is to get the front axle as far forward as possible for a few reasons:

    1.) Provide better oil pan/steering clearance (going to use the 3.0 pan) but i want lower the engine as much as possible in order to hopefully not need the body lift. ( im refusing to cut a hole in the hood)

    2.) Less tire/fender Rubbing, currently running 36's... 6'' lift and 5.29 gears (i want 38's when im done)

    3.) Lowering the CG - I plan on dropping down the transmission cross member a lil bit as well if i can get the engine low enough... this should also help with the drive shaft angles.


    the truck currently has old school Sky Jacker Leafs... but im gonna take those off.

    My plan is to move the IFS steering box forward to the limit of the frame and get new and longer springs (front and back) and weld up a new front hanger possibly a few inches forward from the stock setup.

    a lot of reinforcement is going to be done at the front to accommodate the new hanger placement.

    I figure since im going to have to make new driveshafts, i may as well maximize the steering and engine/trans configurations before hand.

    I am thinking getting the Trail Gear HD leafs (4'' or 5'') for the front... but also it crossed my mind that the rear leafs are a good bit longer...

    whats the harm in using those in the front? would this help me with what i am trying to do?

    Anything else i should consider with lowering the engine and trans to the limits?

    My main goals are to lower the total height/CG and Run bigger tires with a lot more (reliable) horsepower.

    Any tips or advice would be greatly appreciated.

    Thanks you!!!

    Troy
     
  2. Mar 10, 2019 at 10:44 AM
    #2
    la0d0g

    la0d0g Its 4 o’clock somewhere

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    The nice thing about the TG springs is having the pin offset. Though if the rear ones work in the front why not use them since they're free.
     
  3. Mar 10, 2019 at 10:46 AM
    #3
    Ackrite

    Ackrite Well-Known Member

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    RUF set me forward about 3”.
     
  4. Mar 10, 2019 at 10:54 AM
    #4
    troy_gold

    troy_gold [OP] Member

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    La0d0g : what do you mean “since they are free”

    Ackrite : what is “RUF” ?
     
  5. Mar 10, 2019 at 10:55 AM
    #5
    la0d0g

    la0d0g Its 4 o’clock somewhere

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    Since you already have the rear springs you wouldn't have to pay for them o_O
     
  6. Mar 10, 2019 at 10:59 AM
    #6
    slander

    slander Honorary Crawl Boi

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    Use a forward swing steering box. If you are redoing evreything up front, go with front mounted shackles so you don't have to deal.eith the axle trying to drive out from under the truck evrey hill climb. I would personally try to raise the drivetrain as high into the body as possible without a body lift, then you lower the truck down and have less suspension lift.
     
  7. Mar 10, 2019 at 11:00 AM
    #7
    troy_gold

    troy_gold [OP] Member

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    The rear springs I got are the skyjacker... using the stock hangers... too short/tall/steep...

    I’m gonna a ditch all the current springs and buy new front n back...

    I’m wondering what’s the problem with using the long rear springs in the front to get the axle to move forward if I put the front hanger further forward.

    It will be adding significant weight with the v6 and all the enforcement, as well as the beefy front bumper I plan on building...

    I’m wondering if the rear springs are not ideal for that kind of weight???
     
  8. Mar 10, 2019 at 11:00 AM
    #8
    Ackrite

    Ackrite Well-Known Member

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    Chevy 4.3 v6 is probably the most common swap in these, so I imagine a Toyota 3.4 would be fairly easy as well. Stick with a square driveshaft up front. Make a leaf pack containing the rear main as the main and mix in front and rear leafs under that for a good leaf pack.

    RUF=Rear up front.

    And a crawlbox with the 22re will serve you better than an engine, IMO. Gearing is way more enjoyable than more power and gives more absolute control when rock crawling.

    Try reading the Bible over at pirate. It will answer every question you can come up with and set you up with a great blue print for a build.
     
    black coffee and la0d0g like this.
  9. Mar 10, 2019 at 11:04 AM
    #9
    la0d0g

    la0d0g Its 4 o’clock somewhere

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    Truth on the bible (never thought I'd say that).
     
  10. Mar 10, 2019 at 11:09 AM
    #10
    black coffee

    black coffee A is A.

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    troy_gold[OP] likes this.
  11. Mar 10, 2019 at 11:10 AM
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    Ackrite

    Ackrite Well-Known Member

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    Yup. I did my build the old fashioned way, with hundreds of hours of research, planning, and execution. The Bible has every answer. Once upon a time, posting a thread like this would get you shit on.
     
    malburg114 and la0d0g[QUOTED] like this.
  12. Mar 10, 2019 at 11:11 AM
    #12
    troy_gold

    troy_gold [OP] Member

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    Cool, thanks for that info, I appreciate it.

    My mind is set with the 3.4 swap, I got the doner vehicle with everything ready...

    I considered building leaf packs, but I think about the time and possible inconsistency from my inexperience with this area. So I figured sell my used springs and just bite the bullet and buy new, ready to go.

    This vehicle won’t be an extreme crawler, it’s in great condition, I don’t plan on beating the shit out of it.

    It’s got 5.29s and Detroit f&b... my thought is to just put the granny gears in the t case so I won’t deal with the crawlbox or dual cases... I’m using the 3.0 v6 trans.

    From what I’m getting, it’s probably best to do a RUF setup with a possible add a leaf for the weight... does that sound logical?
     
  13. Mar 10, 2019 at 11:14 AM
    #13
    troy_gold

    troy_gold [OP] Member

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    Yea I’m new to the forums (obviously) thanks for your time and patience

    I’ll check out the “bible”
     
  14. Mar 10, 2019 at 11:16 AM
    #14
    Ackrite

    Ackrite Well-Known Member

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    No need to add a leaf. Start with the 3 main leafs in each pack, front and rear, with no overload. Adjust from there after you add the engine, bumper, whatever else, depending on the weight and whether you can do with less leafs or need an extra.
     
  15. Mar 10, 2019 at 11:21 AM
    #15
    Ackrite

    Ackrite Well-Known Member

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    There is no benefit to spending money on a new set of leafs. They suck even compared to 34 year old stock Toyota leaf springs. You are better off spending that money on a set of junkyard Chevy 63’s and a Ruff Stuff kit for the rear.

    Unless you are adament on spending your money, in which case I would gladly take your stock rears off your hands.
     
  16. Mar 10, 2019 at 11:22 AM
    #16
    la0d0g

    la0d0g Its 4 o’clock somewhere

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    I love pirate for that. I love TW for the flip side of that.
     
    Ackrite[QUOTED] likes this.
  17. Mar 10, 2019 at 11:27 AM
    #17
    troy_gold

    troy_gold [OP] Member

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    Not adamant whatsoever... I got a friend that works at toyota, I may be able to get some rear Tacoma leafs that were recalled off his hands.

    Are those a decent foundation to start with for creating a pack?
     
  18. Mar 10, 2019 at 11:33 AM
    #18
    Ackrite

    Ackrite Well-Known Member

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    No. It has to be the stock rears off your 85. Anything else is too long.
     
  19. Mar 10, 2019 at 11:37 AM
    #19
    troy_gold

    troy_gold [OP] Member

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    Ok, I’ll get my hands on some of those...

    what should I use for the rear if I’m going to build this pack for the front?

    I don’t like the skyjacker springs at all...

    Would the Tacoma rears be good for this application if I move the front hanger forward for the rear leafs and build up the stock pack?
     
  20. Mar 10, 2019 at 11:39 AM
    #20
    Ackrite

    Ackrite Well-Known Member

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    Chevy 63’s with a Ruff Stuff install kit in the rear.
     

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