What have you done to your Tacoma today? 1st Gen Edition

Personally I would do both. You're going to need an alignment afterwards, owing to manufacturing variances, so you might as well do them all and pay once. By all means measure them carefully and try to duplicate the length CL-to-CL of the TRE stud, but count yourself VERY lucky if you get it DNO by tape measure.

Your tire bill and wallet will thank you. Cry now or cry later.

 

Taught my son to always start the fasteners by hand with a ratchet. Run them with an impact to speed things up, but finish up with a torque wrench. Bearing in mind that it's entirely possible to have something TOO tight with an impact, then "final torque" it with the torque wrench- and if you didn't see the fastener move before reaching final torque, it's too tight.

 

I am a big fan of the elastomer pan gaskets. I used them on my 5.7 motors when I build them. When time comes to do the Taco, I'll see if it's available.

I have always had the multiple-part gaskets for 5.7 and 4.3 leak if you weren't fastidious about them (butter the surface with a smooth thin layer of RTV, install gasket, butter the block side of the gasket again, install and give it 24 hours to cure). The elastomers you just put in place, bolt it up, and you're done.

 

Not being a dick what so ever but just pointing out that there's a multi-quote option that helps clean up the thread. Keeps it looking nice and easy to read

 

Did you just use a sheet metal screw/bolt through the fender in that position? I need to move mine... I'd already avoided the UCA impact zone after your incident, luckily .

Honestly, I'd like to get them slightly forward and down on the front cross member, behind the skid...but that'll have to wait for longer hoses.

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Does anyone happen to know the thread pitch and size of LBJ bolts? Can they be bought at local hardware stores?

 

M10x1.25 I believe...make sure you buy them in automotive grade 8, I don't know if that's common to find in most hardware stores which is why most people recommend getting them through the dealer

 

They are M10x1.25, Gr. 10.9 (which is roughly equivalent to standard Grade 8). https://www.mcmaster.com/95735a635.

Thank @drr for that bit of info.

 

I was just looking for that link as I bought some recently.

 

No local dealers, hoping I can find em at autozone or something today, if not I’ll go to Gunny.

Ah cool thanks to you and Drr

 

When I went to the local NAPA here in town they told me they don't carry auto grade bolts (thought that was weird) and to go to the dealership, but weirdly enough I was browsing the local Orchard hardware store awhile back and they had a big section dedicated to automotive grade nuts and bolts. Just depends on the location I guess.

 

Removing things is all I use it for pretty much

 

These are a little long?

 

I got one for my lbj at oreillys after I stripped one out. Grade 10.9, but they have a bigger head on them. I think it went up to a 17mm, just barely allowed me to get a socket on it.

 

What length did you get?

 

I think I grabbed a few different sizes. Cant remember which worked out the best.

 

I’m thinking 30 or 35mm

 

does anybody have one of the TRD/Aluminum Battery Hold Downs from @Coupe . I just got mine delivered today and wanting to get it installed properly. The bolt and washer that came with it is not exactly like the OEM that I took out. This is my third battery and have a bit of corrosion in the threads from 22yrs ... trying to spray WD40 and a Qtip while finger screwing the new one in to clean out all the grooves. Is there a topic thread somewhere here for some tips on getting this in properly?

 

Same. My tires were rubbing the resis in the stock location. Even hit one and bent the bracket pretty bad.

 

I just checked that thread. Says they’re made for 2nd and 3rd gens. Did you confirm that it would work first?