Colorado B.S. Thread

Length is your fried when it comes to Breaker Bar's, it's all about leverage until it will not fit where you need it too.

 

I think they misunderstood the science of bobbing the bed...

 

Sweet spare tire mount Bolted right to the bed

 

Looks like he pulled that off a liberty or some shit

 

That's pretty minor. Hit it with a wire brush then coat it with an enamel paint of your choice.

Afterwards you can use something like fluid film to protect the frame from developing rust again

 

Correct me if I am wrong, but doesn't Fluid film go on after paint protection? Fluid Film needs to be applied yearly I thought.

Edit: you make it seem to me like you can paint or fluid film it.

 

Yeah, that's correct. If everything is painted up then you want to apply fluid film.

 

Kind of at a crossroads with my projects. I have the rusted out 85 4runner with a bubba 4 link rear suspension that I was planning on parting out and then picking up a clean 85 4runner from a buddy to build instead. I have a 1UZ for said 4 runner as well and would probably make more of a resto-mod cruiser out of it than anything serious.


I'm not sure if I should ditch both and just focus on the taco or pull my CJ7 out of storage and fix that up instead. It's all just seeming kind of meh right now

I know, first world problems

 

Sounds like a Lexus is in your future.

 

ehhhh I understand the appeal for something that serves DD duty and goes wheeling but I have a econobox for those commutes

 

what about a 4runner with a 1UZ lexus motor in it? does that count?

 

Yes: 85 Runner build of any kind.

No: CJ7 build of any kind.

 

I have a set of RCI skids in the garage waiting for installation. Went with steel for the engine, trans, and transfer case, and aluminum for the gas tank. Beefy for the driveline, and try to save a few pounds where I could. They all seem stout, and the work looks great.
Still trying to figure out how I'll do bumpers when that time comes.

 

There are a lot of shifters in there.

 

Same amount as I have in mine

 

Wire brushing the rust and painting aside... is pressure washing the dirt off sufficient, or do I need to wire brush and/or sand the whole frame before applying paint and then fluid film?

Perhaps a better way to phrase the question: Obviously, where there is dirt, it needs to be removed. Is pressure washing then letting it thoroughly dry sufficient in those areas where no surface rust exists? Or should the surface be further prepped for paint and/or fluid film by mechanical abrasion or "chemical etching/priming" ?

 

Is this OBD2 scanner any good? Is it worth $31? Or are there better ones out there? Or less expensive ones?

Generally, you get what you pay for... but I've also seen adverts float across Facebook for shit, that when you do some checking, you find is a knockoff or clone for twice as much as what a simple Google or Amazon search shows up.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MB8XH6Q

 

Not trying to sound harsh but along with many things you have asked, it's all personal preference. I asked a shit ton of questions when I first got on the forums too and many here will say I still do, , but eventually you are just going to have to send it on some stuff and figure out for yourself how it works for YOU.

If all you are going to use it for is to read the occasional code, something cheap like that will suffice. I have one like it, paid $20 for it, read a code or 2 with it, other than that it sits in my glove box.

 

Get one that works with the app you'll be using. Its bluetooth vs wifi. Most readers are the same unless built for their own app. The app is usually where you'll spend the money depending on how much you want the scanner to tell you and control you'll have to disable/enable certain things.