Turbo BS Thread

Seems to be working great now. O2 skewing is dictating afr........and Im using the fuel table to keep stft around zero so it doesnt tell ltft what Ive been up to and ruin everything.

Hopefully these results hold up.....as long as stft is close to zero, cant see why they wouldnt.

It was as simple as checking a box. Im really liking that fix.

(I just typed this same thing in the fic thread)

 

A typical suspension lift (taller/heavier spring) only raises ride height. Nothing changed where the bump stop is so the LCA still can cycle up to the bump allowing the tire to move up the same amount as stock. If you don't fully cycle your suspension, sure it'll help "clear" bigger tires but if you do cycle it its going to rub the same as if things were stock.

The best way to check clearance is to remove the spring and let the truck sit on the bumps. A typical suspension lift doesn't change that geometry, only the height the truck sits at.

 

Guess it all comes down to one's interpretation of what "typical" is.

 

So all I need to go the turbo route is a a set of turbo manifolds. I have a vast assortment of all other turbo components. I have a Holset HY35 which is an open T3 which is capable of supporting all the power I would ever consider on this. And I believe this would be a great match. Similar to the the twin scroll HX35, but not twin scroll. It was offered on AT Dodge trucks 99 up to like 05. One of the most badass indestructible BUDGET turbos out there.........so long as it is properly fed oil at the correct pressure, and the oil return is large enough diameter, and takes a smooth route with no kinks and doesnt try to fight gravity. Ive seen countless journal bearing turbos destroyed but end user misuse/ improper installation.

It appears that the CX manifolds are decent, but the only thing thats worth a damn in their kit is the manifolds. Are the CX manifolds what everyone is using for the most part? Or are there other offerings?

Id also like to know if they have held up over time for you guys, or have they started cracking. I know CX has offered some of their manifolds made out of 11gauge rather than the super cheap thin stuff that cracks in under 1000 miles. Hoping they offer the 5VZFE manifolds in 11 gauge.

 

I’m running a HE351

 

similar and a later/improved design I think- how do you like it?

 

The issues with the CX manifolds I've had are the turbo flange brace cracking which isn't a huge deal, could probably use another brace welded on. The manifold flanges to the engine itself are also not flat, so having those machined down will save you gaskets in the future. The wastegate flange is also not square in my experience.

 

yeah ripping the flanges straight would be no issue. I failed to do that before installing the JBA headers and regret it in a major way. Very minor leak that is not even audible...... and only detected through pressure testing........ but still annoying.

I used 6 layer steel gaskets (MLS) and figured there was enough material to crush it in........... but was wrong. The headers came with composite gaskets which would have sealed better being that I did nothing to true the flanges.......but they dont use the entire flange to make their seal, they have a raised ring around each port. I didnt figure on brand new headers having sealing issues. This is something I always do when assembling used components.

So just the round stock ugly brace has cracked off but not cracks in the primaries or collector?

 

None on my setup thus far

 

Is there a preferred exhaust manifold gasket out there that is known to work the best on the 5vzfe?

 

People seem to like the MLS gaskets, I use them as well.
https://www.lceperformance.com/Exhaust-Gasket-Set-LH-RH-5VZ-p/1044008.htm

 

I like it, wish it were quieter at 2k rpm lol

 

Soldered in the EBC, it’s suspended in place by the hoses. Smaller than I thought it would be.



Finished painting the TRD Pro look Grill, I like it.

 

That all looks good. I like the grill . I need to do something with mine. It's pretty hideous.

 

Time for new headlights, I've cut these four times and there's plenty of internal cracks. She's getting a makeover next year.

 

The good ole days of glass......

 

There are no kits so you'll need something custom fabricated which will be $$$ but that's just the beginning.

The 3.5L is an open deck design; I'd be careful with any amount of boost. You can get the block modified to a semi-open deck which is highly recommended but also highly $$$. Or just buy a ton of spare head gaskets.

Also, you might want to get a standalone ECU for tuning. The 3.5L valve timing is tricky with the Atkinson cycle simulation and I don't know how you plan on fuel delivery with the 12 injectors it has (DI and PI). Unless you have enough money and patients to be a ground breaker, I'd wait.

If you are committed, check out the Lexus forums as this engine was initially a Lexus engine.

 

Did you guys do anything to your brake booster? Don't they use vaccum?

 

They do, but they have a check valve built in.