Rub, 255/80/17, 2019 Off Road 4WD

I'm coming from a Corvette and love the new Taco. But it's a big difference, all I know is what I've read here.

I bought Toyo Open Country R/T, I like the way they look, but I need them to be functional off road. I had 255/80/17 installed on TRD Pro 17 wheels today. I've read some success stories with these pizza cutters on the Tacoma Off Road.

Unfortunately, I have rub when I'm turning the wheel and mall crawling. I don't think I need a CMC. There is no rub towards the engine side, only lateral outer rubbing in the wheel well towards the front.

I want no rub. I also want to occasionally have some light off road adventures and make use of my 4x4. I have sliders ordered from RCI. And I want steel bumpers and a winch.

My purpose is mainly Florida flatland and occasional mud, but I may travel with it in some states with a some mountains. I'm not planning on doing any crazy rock crawling.

I'm considering a 63 swap. It seems like it would work well and not cost much. I'm willing to spend a little bit more than that. There are many lift options, I know it's mostly personal preference.

Do you think the 63 swap is a good option? Do you think there is a reasonably priced alternative that is worth spending a bit more on?

I'm sure I'm missing some details, let me know how I could explain this better.

 

Take pics of your wheel well full lock turning right and left and report back.

Your wheel spec determines if you can run the tall and skinnies on stock suspension or any tire size really.

 

That makes sense. I tested this link, it should work. Let me know if this link works for you.

I'm having issues inserting images, maybe because I'm green. Hopefully the link works.

 

It worked. Can’t really tell. Just look for any rubbing mark... does it sound like metal or rubber?

 

Sounds like rubber.

 

It's hard to tell from the pictures, but it has rubbing marks on the plastic on the most downward piece towards the outside of the truck.

 

You need more caster (more than the factory spec anyway). Some work with the heat gun might get you some more room but with no lift those will rub when offroading. With all the off-the-shelf options and your proposed plans for the truck, I'd say 63's are not right for your application.

 

Does anyone think there's a better option than this:

Complete Old Man Emu Kit w/ Dakar Leaf Pack - 2016+ Tacoma
Coil Selection: 886X
Strut Selection: 90021 Soft Ride Strut
Strut Assembly: Add Strut/Coil Assembly
Upper Control Arms: Add Light Racing UCA's
Dakar Leaf Pack : Heavy Duty

I am looking to put a slimline steel bumper(possibly a full bumper) and a winch. Also looking at possibly putting a Diamondback HD or cap on the bed. Not looking at any towing. Daily Driver with rare off road use.

 

OME is good stuff. Ive run several versions over the last 4 years and changing again soon. The 886's are good for the extra weight as are the dakars. Id really sit down and look at the weight requirements in your bed though. I have mediem dakars now and will be upgrading soo because they are sagging with my shell, decked system, and hc rear bumper.

 

Do you think the heavy Dakars will work better?

 

With all the great vendors here, I'm sure any one of them could help get you lined out. @Wheeler's Off-Road Inc @Toytec Lifts @HeadStrong Off-Road

 

I've only spoken when Headstrong*, they seem very good.

I'm just on the fence here. Not sure if I have the funds to accomplish everything. It seems like I've missed all the good deals on everything. It's tight buying a winch, bumper, and lift all at the same time.

 

Haha thats no joke! From the time you join tacomaworld its all downhill from there. Id say your off to a solid start with the new truck and nice wheel tire combo. I'll say I ran just bilstein 5100s set to 1.75 and a wheelers 3 leaf aal for over a year and had nothing but positive things to say about the ride and performance. Everyone will have their own opinions on whats best so take what you get with a grain of salt. For the immediate future, I'd say go to an alignment shop and ask them for more caster. Then trim whatever plastic bits you need to to keep from tearing up those new tires. The nice thing about ome shocks is you can change out springs as your need change. The same with 5100's you can adjust the height down the road without buying more stuff. AAL's are an easy cheap way to get height in the rear and when you factory springs start to sag you can drop coin on full leaf replacements. At the end of the day, having a set budget you can help you make the choices as the sky is the limit!

 

I am thoroughly confused. I spent multiple hours researching this skinny tire issue and thought I had it figured out that I can fit 255/85/16 on stock 2019 TRD Offroad without any issues of rubbing. Is there a big difference in the wheel size going from 16 to 17 inch that causes this? I have the stock 16s on mine currently.

 

The wheel size doesn’t effect the overall dimensions. 255/80/17 and 255/85/16 being nearly identical.

 

That's what I have understood from reading other posts but am curious as to why @firemedic1343 was having rubbing issues. Maybe the offset?

 

I don't have spacers and run on OEM SEMA 4Runner 17" wheels. I don't know why I have rub, but everyone truck is slightly different.

 

I'm learning so much from this site but I'm so far out of my depth I'm almost scared to post! I'm currently running 255/75/17 on a stock 2013 TRD Sport suspension and rims, and have zero rub. Being an idiot, i might just chalk it up to the stock sport rims, but I bought a set of the TRD SEMAs last week that change the offset from 25-30mm depending on the site, to 4mm. My thought is they will be .75-1.00 in wider,which is great for me, but I bet there's something I haven't thought of and this is the worst possible idea in the history of trucks. What am I missing?

 

Those tires are a good bit smaller than op’s. Get them mounted and take your time checking clearance. Worst case you have to break out the utility knife on some small unseen plastic pieces.

 

you may be able to move both fronts forward or back to centered better in wheel well.(seen this work)
Set Back:
Set back is the amount by which one front wheel is further back from the front of the vehicle than the other. It is also the angle formed by a line perpendicular to the axle centerline with respect to the vehicle's centerline. If the left wheel is further back than the right, setback is negative. If the right wheel is further back than the left, setback is positive. Setback should usually be zero to less than half a degree, but some vehicles have asymmetrical suspensions by design. Setback is measured with both wheels straight ahead, and is used as a diagnostic angle along with caster to identify chassis misalignment or collision damage. The presence of setback can also cause differences in toe-out on turn angle readings side-to-side.