Alignment specs for 2” lift?

I am curious what specs I should have after installing a 2” suspension lift on a 3rd gen. I just had an alignment done after install and I’m a little skeptical. However I know nothing of alignments and what the numbers should be. I spoke with the guy who did the alignment and he said they are within factory specs. Shouldn’t it be different than factory since it’s lifted?? Thanks for the help!

 

Did you install uca’s?

 

I had TRD PRO alignment(s) done. However, I am running 2nd gen TRD PRO suspension.

 

No uca’s. Seems like they are not needed until 2.5 and up is what I have read. It drives fine and tracks straight but just want to make sure it’s aligned properly.

 

Where did you find that info? I have 2.5" front and 1" rear and everything is fine but my alignment didn't seem quite right yet. Bringing it in for another at the dealership this time in the morning.

Everywhere I read before buying my lift was that 3+" needed UCAs but ubdrr 3" was fine with stock. Mine are facing down quite a bit but the ball joints arent maxed out so I don't see why I need to upgrade unless it's gonna be impossible to hold an alignment without new UCAS.

Thoughts? anyone who's been thru this?

 

0, 0, 2.5

 

Yep. If running just 2” no need to worry about all the stuff you have read. Factory specs will be fine. That other stuff is for when you get to 3” add uca’s and larger tires.

 

Mines at the dealership right now for an alignment... Service manager insists that unless I want to pay for a custom alignment all i get under warranty is a "within factory specs" alignment. Bullcrap. I should be able to get the alignment to the numbers I want. Even on warranty covered work.

When you say 0 for toe and 0 for camber, that implies that as long as they're under 0.99 that's good? My current alignment was .68 driver side and .36 passenger side. That seems a bit drastic. Is it possible to get a 0.01 or less on both sides for toe and camber? Then max out caster or at least get 2.3?

 

So Toyota has a given set of numbers that they consider in spec. At the dealer when they do alignments as long as the readings fall with the Toyota given specs it is considered aligned. When you ask for specific numbers it may take longer to get them exactly where you’d like them especially when the suspension has been modified so they may charge more because you take an alignment that may take 20 minutes and turn into an hour. At the dealer as long as it in spec they’re gonna roll it.

 

there are two different camps more or less about the alignment thing around here. you can go super simple, or you can get into the details.

1) folks who get an alignment simply for fit & clearance and a straight drive. and the details stop there. it drives straight with no rubbing but doesn't optimize the handling on-road. there are no issues unless you don't like how it drives. i cannot stand driving a vehicle with low caster, especially one with a heavy front end like the Tacomas.

2) folks who do #1 and proceed on to optimize handling, which is pretty subjective, but that's maybe what you're asking.

0.0 toe works. it also allows for a very floaty and slightly ungrounded feeling on tarmac at highway speed, and the steering wheel doesn't self-center as well as with a bit of toe. factory spec is 0.05deg toe-in each side. i run 0.02deg both sides toe-in and love it. 0.0 compromises road feel for those who pay attention to those details. the steering is noticeably less sharp. and Toyota's hydraulic steering is awesome, so i personally am not gonna miss out on that. it's one of the best enjoyments i have as a driving enthusiast.

2.5 caster works, and it gets the clearance w/o rubbing. but if you extend your caster higher, you can increase high speed steering stability especially on tarmac, and you increase the weighting of the steering wheel a bit also. it's a different feel, more suitable for highway speeds and beyond. with 2.5deg you are much more sitting on top of the front tires which can be a nervous drive at highway speed, where going above 3deg will stretch out your front end a little and that smooths out steering nervousness as you go above roughly 50mph.

you have the option of keeping it basic or getting into it with no end in sight. details y'know.

 

I’m with ya. I like .03 toe in, .5 positive camber and I run 4 degrees of caster. On drive a lot of highway at 80mph it’s a dart.

 

0 camber, 0.02 toe in, and 5deg caster over here. it's a dream on the highway, absolutely the most fun vehicle i've driven once i got it setup right.

 

Okay so lets say 2" lift WITH UCAs?

 

It really driver preference. Factory specs will keep tires from wearing improperly. After that it’s all about the driver and understanding road feedback into your hands and what you like. It may take a couple of alignments to get exactly what you like.

 

not to mention the difference in the size and weight of the tires you run after a lift vs what Toyota put on it . That as the say changes everything. I am all for a little toe and some extra caster to help with the twice as heavy tires I run compare to the OE tires and wheels

 

Not trying to hijack, but also didn't feel like starting a new thread since there are so many alignment threads!

Long story short I have a 2020 pro and I put a 1.5" spacer, stock UCAs. I have 285/70r17s on 17x8.5s. I took it to firestone and truck seems a little off it also pulls to left. Are these settings correct? Weirdly they said bring it back in two weeks after it settles, I have never been told that on my previous trucks.

If I understand people correctly I should tell them to set caster to 2.5?

 

don't recommend stock UCA's on anything over 31" tire. but that's just me, because my value for caster is not merely for fitment. caster changes how it drives.

that alignment is not great. if you want this done right you should be 3-4deg caster. they have a "caster split" there either for road crowning or simply because they guy doesn't know how to align the thing. that road crown caster split thing is bullshit IMO and you don't need compensation, you just need it straight and drive it as it goes. the camber should also be closer to 0, or properly 0 actually if you want it dialed it.

these things do "settle" on new lift installs, but unlikely the numbers will change.

 

Gotcha, I wasn't sure I needed UCAs since I only used a 1.5" spacer. Did not know I needed UCA bc of tire size! Newb here lol. Do I get a specific UCA? I have seen some that are for 3" lift per say. Thanks a ton

 

the added caster from UCAs allow you to position the tires more forward in the well, and that can eliminate or reduce rubbing at the back of the tire in the rear of the wheel well where the cab mount is just behind the tire. that's where rubbing often happens when talking about CMC, cab mount chop.

SPC UCAs have max adjustability. JBAs are good, but less adjustability is my understanding (anyone correct me if i'm wrong). you can go with uniball UCAs but that's probably not for you if you're asking.

 

awesome again thanks! just pulled up to firestone!