How to - Installing new Speakers in your 3rd Gen

Thanks to this thread, it give me the push to put back my stealth box. I too swapped out all the speakers, for me it was quick and easy. The only thing that took the most time was mounting the speakers to the adapters. I've ordered from ********* "Tacoma PnP Amp harness Installation kit" https://*********.com/shop/toyota-t...acoma-plug-play-amp-harness-installation-kit/. This will give me a line out from the HU to an LC7i that will give me better RCA signals to my 5 channel. Speaker out from the amp to the wire harness that go directly back to the speakers. No need to run new lines because I will not be going over the 75w RMS of the factory line. This for me is enough to give me a bit more enjoyment on my drives. Not looking to wake up the block and im satisfied with the stock entune HU. Wishful thinking that when the 2020 Taco's are released, Toyota would just issue/release a s/w update for pre 2020 entune HU's.

 

Resurrecting am dead thread. I can’t get the door panels off, I’m not trying to break anything but I can only get one clip to disengage

 

You removed both screws holding it on right?

If so, the once you get a corner to pop, its just a matter of pullling hard. One clip is week, but many clips together are strong, so try to work your way around the edge pulling each one by itself.

 

I removed everything. I only got one clip to pop and I tried to pull the others but no luck

Edit: I ordered some trim/panel removal tools from Amazon so I’ll give those a try, I just want to get one door panel off before my speakers arrive so I have an idea of what I can/cannot soundproof and where I can/cannot reach to sound proof

 

If the screws are out you just need to pull it out enough on the bottom to squeeze a few fingers in and give it a nice tug.

 

That’s what I was doing but the plastic was starting to bend in ways it probably shouldn’t

 

I had a difficult time getting mine off, and felt I was almost about to rip the panel off. Since you have the two screws out, with the door open lay flat on the ground and look between the door body and the panel, you should be able to spot the clips. Use one of the big forked plastic pry tools that can fit around the body of the clips and use it to wedge and gently pry each clip between the body and panel. It'll be a nice pop after each one, and just start working them all out. I found that once I got the very bottom popped free, it became much easier to pop the clips without the tool. Hopefully this helps.

 

Just followed the OP’s write up and hooked up my sound system. No comparison. Night and day difference all around!

 

Who has installed a sub box in the rear and how did you guys secure it/where did you bolt the box to?

 

@SomethingNew71 Thanks for the write up. You gave me the inspiration to take on this project and also the front corner speakers. I'm not looking for a high end system or to rattle windows, just to enjoy my truck. This is a good way to make improvement.

@PlymouthJLA Thanks for the additional tips. I got the free Metra adapters with my speakers from Crutchfield and what a POS they are. Like you, only two holes lined up perfect and I would have to try to cobble something together to use them (see the OP's picture of the back of his speakers). I've ordered the ones you recommenced from Amazon and now have to put my door back together until they get here in a couple days.

Edit: I'll be installing the speakers to the adapters BEFORE I tear into the door next time. My bad.

 

This is a great write up, my door speakers are all cracky from the previous owner.

 

Interesting I see many are having some kind of issue with the adapters from crutchfield. I ordered my speakers from them as well and got the free included adapters. They aren't the best but not as bad either, worked for me. I mount my speakers to the adapters 1st then mount them to the door.

 

Thanks for sharing all the valuable info for the speaker upgrade OP!!!

 

I ran into the exact same issue. The metra adapters that came with the component 6x9s did not line up. The holes from the speaker to the bracket. The bracket lined up perfectly with the door. As far as the clips and the door. The ones for the small triangle piece, each time they would come off, I had already seen on a video that a little tip was to super glue those back on the piece itself. NOT THE DOOR CLIPS. The door panels, I found after demolishing my first door panel..even with all the fancy little tools offered. I still had to rip the dang thing off. I did notice that the issue wasnt so much the plastic piece, but the black gasket behind it. Using the panel tool (

KINGLAKE Panel Removal Tool - 13 Pcs Auto Trim Upholstery Removal Kit Door Trim Molding Dash Panel Car Radio Door Clip Panel Auto Body Repair Window Molding Tools Fastener Remover +Bag

https://www.amazon.com/KINGLAKE-Pan...5&s=gateway&sprefix=bojo+,aps,159&sr=8-6&th=1). I pried the door from the bottom up. After getting the bottom to pop off, which almost always leaves the clips behind. The others, I would pry it until i could see the clip, and insert the panel tool. Aiming the strait pry bar at the black part beneath the flimsy plastic. Doing that..they popped off much easier.

 

Very glad to help people out!!

 

Guess I'll bump this thread as I just ordered these parts @SomethingNew71 listed in the first post. Crutchfield says "I need to splice the input and output wires of my tweeters together" One my install instructions. What exactly are they talking about? Did you guys do anything like that? I already installed the Subaru tweeters in my dash...

I'm guessing the lower 6x9's that come OEM don't have tweeters but the new Kickers do.

 

Hey KalamaKid, If you did the Subaru tweeters in the dash there shouldn't need to be any splicing of other speakers. The new kickers will receive the fixed audio signal from the head unit and deliver whatever ranges of the sound spectrum they can support if that makes sense. Unless they have separate speaker inputs for their tweeters.

 

Would it be better and easier to enclosed the metal vent around the speaker with dynamat instead of using the full boom mat? You can still leave one vent uncover for ventilation etc.

 

sub'd! can't wait to upgrade

 

I think it just depends on what you'd like to accomplish. I figured for the money I can have my entire speaker protected, wiring, magnet, and all, with just a simple foam piece. The other thing I was cautious of was impeding/restricting airflow from the speakers as the diaphragm oscillates, which was why I made the openings as big as I did in my front boom mats, and question if I made the opening large enough in the rears. Originally, when I tried screwing the whole assembly together, I was going to leave them out due to how painful it was to assemble before I changed my adapter rings. I have been happy with my boom mats so far and would definitely use them again.