jbl bypass

does anyone know where i can find the jbl bypass harness? ive seen it before but cant seem to find it now.
it just bypasses the factory jbl amp and wires direclty to the new hu
thanks in advance!

 

scratch it i found it

 

Could you post that link?

Thanks

 

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_12709_Metra+70-8117.html?utm_campaign=froogle

This looks like it connects to your new HU and then runs the speaker connections from your new HU to the buss with the speaker connections that is currently plugged into the JBL amp. Does anyone have a pic of the exposed JBL amp and that connection?

I notice that it also includes the Metra 70-8113 that includes the necessary power connections for the new HU. Looks like you can get this separately incase you want to run new speaker wires to bypass the amp.

Which way is better or faster (but good), running new wires for the speakers or using the Metra JBL Bypass?

 

I'm not happy with the JBL Premium Sound package in my 2007 Tacoma. I'm an old guy, so I've replaced a fair amount of car stereos in my time, but I am by no means familiar with the work arounds necessary to replace the JBL System. I've been searching and reading, but the replies for the JBL problems are pretty few - I haven't seen any really extensive threads on this subject.

On other factory car stereos, if they don't sound good, it's usually because they are underpowered and the speakers are crap. I've followed threads where the factory speakers are replaced, but the sound improves only marginally. So that tells me that I will most likely see a big difference by installing a new HU with integrated 50w per channel (not RMS).

What I don't want to do is pay $90-$150 for the JBL wiring adapter so that I can continue using the JBL Amp - and not the amp built into the new HU (which I suspect is part of the reason I'm not getting good sound).

If I install new speakers and don't hear a significant improvement, I will be installing a new HU. And it seems like I have these options:

1-Pay $90-$150 for the JBL wiring adapter and reuse the JBL Amp and factory speaker wires.

2-Pay $60 for the JBL amp bypass that allows me to reuse the factory speaker wires, but actually runs a group of wires out to the JBL amp and plugs into the speaker wire buss that is currently plugged into the amp.

3-Pay $12 for the Metra power adapter 70-8113 and then run new speaker wires from the HU to each speaker.

All of this is, for sure, a pain in the butt, but it looks like it is what I need to do to do an end-run around the JBL system. I'm inclined to go with option 2, since it only involves 1 wire run instead of 4. And FYI, at this time, I am not considering a separate amp and sub or amp for the speakers.

 

I don't know if I understand what your saying. Are you saying that the JBL wiring adapter or one of these http://shop.*********.com/05-Toyota-JBL-Harness-Adapter-Module-05JBLModule.htm actually reduce the power coming from the new HU in order to feed to the OEM amp?
I am planning on upgrading my HU and I have the OEM JBL system, I don't know what exactly I need to properly accomplish this while benefiting from the new HU power upgrade.

 

When I upgraded my headunit to a pioneer deh 310bt, i used the PAC TATO to continue using the jbl amp. The TATO had the RCA connections, so it went from my headunit to the jbl amp - I would say the sound still sucked. That and I would have to turn the volume up to around 40 to be at a good volume(street driving). around 50-55 for freeway. I don't know if this is just me/ the tato/headunit, or if others have experienced it as well. I recently upgraded all the speakers and installed a jl 300/4. so it sounds a lot better now.


btw, heres pictures of the amp - although it's removed from the truck already. The connectors are located at behind the plastic compartment by the right rear seat.

 

To answer your question - yes. I think that if you use the most expensive adapter (option 1), then you would connect the RCA connectors of the adapter to the pre-outs on your new head unit and then the pre-out signal would go to your JBL amp and then on to your speakers.

I didn't check the $149 Metra adapter carefully, but some of these adapters don't necessarily connect to the pre-outs with RCA, some will take your new HU amplified signal (meant for the speakers) and reduce them to pre-out signal so it can send the pre-out signal to the JBL Amp.

I think Sage is confirming my suspicion that if you put a new HU in and then send it all through the JBL, you will still be complaining about the sound. For most non - JBL installations, you just buy the wiring adapter and solder it to the new HU plug and then the new HU sends the amplified signal to the speakers over the old, factory speaker wires. But with the JBL system, the adapter is providing a lot more function - it's sending the new HU pre-out signal (or reduced/converted amplified signal) to the old to the old amp which is connected to the old, factory speaker wiring.

 

So Sage,

Thanks for the help! Your comments about being dissapointed after installing a new HU, but re-using the OEM JBL amp are really helpful.

I looked up the JL 300/4 and see that it is a new amp (I thought it might have been a different HU). When you installed this, did you run all new speaker wires or did you re-use the factory speaker wires that, I think, terminate in the general area of the old JBL amp?

 

I re-ran new wires (14 awg). The stock wiring seems to be around 18-22 gauge. I also upgraded the speakers to alpine type R's, components in front and coaxial in back. This was my first audio install ever, so I figured I go all out hehe... Think I might have overdone it in some areas, but overall, im glad i did.

 

Did you try to adjust the gain in the PAC TATO? According to the manual, you have to adjust the gain so that it matches with the factory radio.

(see the second page)

http://www.pac-audio.com/PACProductData/TATO/1_Instructions/tato_instructions_060508.pdf

 

Yup, I had it at +7 gain. But now that's in the past as i'm no longer using it. Although that might help for anyone else who might get a TATO. Thanks though sdheda.

 

If do option 2, will you lose the sub if you have a headunit capable of only 4 speakers?

 

That's correct, unless you can find another harness and splice wires to connect to the sub inputs, i don't know the wiring diagram though.

Err, option 2 will prevent you from using the jbl amp/sub at all, regardless of what your headunit is capable of.

 

So I would lose the sub with this option.

This is really becoming more complicated than I thought it would be.

So it seems like I only have two options: 1. Buy the something like the Metra

$70 TYTO-01 JBL Amplifier Interface Harness, BLACK

TYTO-01 and use it temporarily until I can get enough money to buy a new amp, speakers, and sub. 2. I can just not install the new headunit right now and wait until I have everything else.

 

Yeah, in my case, i bought the pac TATO for 70$ and installed the headunit, then got sub amps and speakers 6 months later .

then sold the tato for half price.

 

I just started to go the opposite route and upgrade my front speakers. I had some Infinity 6x8/5x7 laying around from another project. I figured that when I pulled off the old speaker, there would be some giant hole and I could make an MDF adapter for any speaker. When I pulled the door panel, there was a JBL 6x9 speaker already on an adapter.

What should I do? It would be easiest to find an Infinity 6x9 and then use the existing adapter. I also considered 6.5" cause I hear they sound better. I could also make an adapter for the 5x7/6x8 that I already have.

I was checking stock at a local Fry's and ended up talking to one of the installers. When he found out I had the JBL, he said that he's done several speaker only upgrades on the JBl Systems and most customers were disappointed.

Now I'm rethinking the project.

 

Well I can answer 1, look around on here and the 4runner site for a used JBL interface, I sold mine for $32 shipped.
All of my experience is from the 4Runner side with the JBL system, I used a Z1 with the interface and hated it, used a F90BT with the interface and it was way better, the secret between the two was volt output on the RCA plugs the Z1 only had 2v, most of Pioneers newer units have 4v, the interface likes more volts.

as for number 3, that will work but as I remember the JBL speakers are only 2ohm and wiring will be tricky since most head units want 4ohm, the JBL's are usually have a mate wired in series to make the 4ohm, so that is something to look into.

Good luck.

 

I got the Pioneer X920BT, and the max preout voltage is 2.2V according to its manual.

I guess I will not get good performance with JBL interface then. At least it will be a temporary fix.