How to change the rack and pinion steering -2nd gen V6

I bet it would. Propane wasn't doing it.

 

So, a little R&P update, ended up ordering the NEW version of Cardone's unit from Rockauto, mainly because it came with the lifetime warranty for only $100 more. Also picked up some OEM outer tie rods because why not(actually got them on rockauto as well, they dont pull up under tacoma, you just have to search the exact part number and they are there). Finally got around to installing it this past weekend, and everything is operating properly, minus one issue which i will mention below. First, a few notes in regards to the install:

1. Make sure you completely REMOVE the bolt holding the steering linkage to the rack! Didn't remove it and only loosened it, and it wouldn't come off. Finally thought that maybe it had to be removed completely as it being in there stopped it from coming out, and i was correct. Its probably mentioned somewhere in this thread, i just didn't remember reading it if so.
2. The drivers side R&P bolt worried me, as I read horror stories about getting it out. I ran into the same exact issue as expected, however my remedy was quite easy. While most people were grinding the head of the bolt down, or just cutting the bolt in half, i used a ziz wheel and just cut 1/4" off the end of the bolt which gave the bolt enough clearance to be removed. I was able to reuse the bolt using this method, and it took all of 30 seconds to cut the end of the bolt off.
3. It was somewhat of a headache initially trying to get the rack and pinion actually out of the truck. I learned that removing the passenger side bolt for the front diff and removing the front skid plate supports is very important. Once those are removed the rack and pinion slides out with almost no obstructions. I left the inner and outer tie rods on, and was able to remove it this way.
4. Make sure to make sure your friend removes the seat belt from the steering wheel when making sure everything is operating properly and filling the reservoir with fluid!! My buddy didnt remove it and thought it would be able to rotate with some slack, and kept telling me the steering wheel was only moving a half turn then getting stuck. I wasnt watching him to see if he had removed the seatbelt or not(i assumed he would have; granted it was 2AM) so i started stressing and researching what the problem could be. Finally i thought to try it myself when i found he had left the seat belt wrapped around the steering wheel...

That pretty much sums up the install! Filled with Mobile 1 full syn ATF and have yet to see any leaks or hear any odd noises. Steering feel hasn't changed much, steering was tight before. The old unit was replaced just because it was leaking.


Now, my ISSUE!
Got the R&P in, and now the TRAC light(squiggly lines) is on. I thought it would go away after I got it aligned this afternoon, however I just picked the truck up and drove it a few miles and it still hasnt gone off. Will it eventually go off? I read something about possibly have to do a VSC relearn procedure, is this true?

I will say, after i installed the rack, the steering wheel was off about 1/8th of a turn to the right. I corrected this temporarily by straightening the wheel, and adjusting the inner tie rods, and actually got it pretty damn close. I did notice when pulling the old rack off that the number of threads on each tie rod was different from each other, meaning that the distance from the center of the rack and pinion to the center of the outer tie rods was slightly different, if that makes sense. When i straightened the wheel and adjusted the tie rods, the number of threads was almost identical on both sides. After the alignment, the amount of threads on both sides is still identical. I think the PO may have had some adjustments made at some time and maybe had a relearn done with the old rack and pinion slightly 'off' so now i have to do another one now that its in the correct position?? Does that make sense or am I just making things up??

EDIT: So, got the issue taken care of! The VSC relearn procedure took care of it. I only drove a couple miles but it didn’t come back on, we’ll see if it stays off in the coming days. Thanks for everyone’s input with this whole process, much appreciated!

 

Any of you guys have any input regarding the TRAC/VSC light?

 

So, got the issue taken care of! The VSC relearn procedure took care of it. I only drove a couple miles but it didn’t come back on, we’ll see if it stays off in the coming days. Thanks for everyone’s input with this whole process, much appreciated!

 

Were you ever able to split the lower steering linkage (connecting to the R/P) enough to remove it? I’ve been able to work mine maybe half and inch off Where it meets the rack but cant get it to move any further. Upper steering linkage bolts are disconnected.

 

Make sure you completely remove the bolt holding the steering rack to the linkage. Only loosening it won’t allow it to fully come off

 

Yeah the lower linkage bolt and the upper two linkage bolts are all removed. I’m going to soak both spline ends in pb blaster overnight and hopefully that frees up one of the sides. I widened up the lower linkage ears pretty significantly but can still only get the sleeve to move halfway off the rack connector.

 

Are you pulling the rack towards the front of the truck? I believe you have to remove the bolts that hold the rack to allow for enough movement for the linkage to come off

 

You don’t, you can remove the linkage with the rack in place. I know because I’ve replaced that intermediate steering shaft without touching the rack

 

Interesting. I remember when I did mine I had to pull the steering rack loose but maybe I just wasn’t trying hard enough

 

Probably the case. I had to get a pry bar in there to pop off the shaft. That, and a BFH

 

BFH is always the key

 

Did you remove the cv axle in order to fit said bfh? A few tutorials I’ve seen show it out of there

 

No, I placed the prybar on the shaft and hammered on that.

 

Well I chopped off almost an inch off the driver side bolt on the nut side and was able to wrestle it out of the mounting hole. As soon as I did, the lower steering linkage just fell off where it connects! Now I have access to the fluid lines and the return line nut appears to be seized to the actual line. Assuming I can break it loose with out breaking the line itself, I should be home free.

 

Behold, the head of the beast. Unfortunately this was the only way I could come up with to salvage the return line

 

When you cut the bolt, were you able to throw it back in an use it the way it was? Did you have plenty of thread to tag back onto?

 

I’ve read of people being able to reuse it but if it were me, I’d just get new nuts and bolts from the dealer and completely cut them off with a sawzall. Or just one for the drivers side

 

You can save that money for beer. You can try and wiggle it out without any cutting, and if that doesn’t work put a floor jack under the transmission cross member, unbolt that and lower it a bit (service manual actually calls for this). There’s enough flex in the motor mounts for the front of the engine to tilt up slightly which should give you enough room.
Better than slipping with a sawzall and taking out a fluid line or something

 

I cut a quarter inch off of my bolt with a grinder and a cut off wheel and was still able to reuse it with full thread engagement in the nut. Reinstalled it the way it should have been from the factory lol.

@hx989 has a great suggestion as well that I didn’t think of at the moment.