Home Improvement Today?

I can get pics monday. Half a country away from home atm.

 

@ImplicitlyAlberta
Lol that could be difficult then. No hurry
@OZ-T asked and u answered the most pertinent question...,I’ll bow out now that u have his attention but I’m guessing his answer is gonna involve silicone and mechanically fastening the plate down,
and maybe treating the outside somehow to keep the water off the slab

Hopefully your bottom plates are treated lumber tho lol

 

The landlord is reimbursing me for parts/tools/labor if I do the work myself. Most of the garage was done already (ceilings and 3/4's of the walls) so I'm just finishing the job. I plan to do 2 finishing coats and then primer/sealer over everything.

I'm not sure on the insulation yet, I was going to head to home Depot and see what options I have. Highest R probably that fits the width.

 

The current garage is unfinished sheetrock with a bad seam job and water stained backing. I'm planning on two finishing coats and then some thick primer/sealer paint to get it looking consistent. The bar is not set high on this one and no one (me or the landlord) is thinking otherwise.

 

Thanks man.
It is bolted down. Pretty sure its pressure treated boards.

 

By code it doesn't have to be PT lumber , it can be untreated SPF or Fir as long as it is isolated from the concrete typically with a sill gasket . We never use PT lumber for sill plates unless the plates need to be glued down versus bolted down .

 

Guessing there’s no gasket if he can see daylight lol

 

Depends on how bad the top of the concrete is , I've seen some pretty bad examples where the sill plate bridges over highs in the concrete . The normal sill gasket is only 1/8" thick

 

I will need to check. The pad is from 1958 and has some heaving but fairly good for the most part. Whats this gasket? Would I be able to see it from inside?

 

Collected some ‘kindling’. Taco style.

 

You should be able to see it under the sill plate . In that era of building it may be a foam gasket or may be an asphalt rolled roofing type material .

 

Its a brand new build on old pad so I will have look see on monday and make sure all is there as should be. As far as where the osb joints are and I can see light, what would be the best route? Thinking I will do regular batting insulation as itll be easier and quicker for me to do in a short time.

 

I see fiberglass batts in ur future lol looks like 2x4’s on 16” centers (you’ll want to verify) so r13 15” in whatever length, batts can come precut or in rolls

You’ll need to cut the left edge of the existing sheetrock back 3/4” so you have something to nail the new stuff to and to keep your lay-off

 

Probably a PT plate or conventional lumber plate with foam gasket then . When you say OSB joints , you mean between the OSB sheets ? I thought you meant you could see daylight between the bottom of the sill plate and the concrete slab .

 

Honestly, now I am second guessing myself. I will have to check. I seem to remember seeing sun through the bottom but now I am not too sure. Damn memory. I just know there was sunlight and wasnt sure if I should if I should fix it prior to finishing interior walls.

 

Take a pic when you are there . There are lots of waterproofing / air sealing products that will work like tapes , peel & stick or liquid applied flashings

 

Today I installed the rough in for the outside security cameras

 

I'm curious about how the top of your rough openings are framed . Looks like 2 ply headers and then a 2x4 plate inside and flush to the bottom of the header . Is that a standard framing practice in your area ?

 

Outlets at least 48" high. Allows sheet goods to be placed under and still use outlets. I just did plywood walls. Sadly if it's going to burn, it's going to burn. Yes, don't compress insulation in the attic. Other's have answered about the sill issue, and I'm also wondering about the construction there. I'm not sure about code where you are, but we have to have our gas line enter from outside. I'd say plumb it, best money I spent on my barn. I have 2 radiant gas heaters. It was for redundancy, zone heating, and so less air blew around for dust and such. My barn should need 48k btu based on calculations, but only one of my 25k heaters runs to keep it at 43 during winter. I like the speed of forced air warm up, but I don't think I'd trade my radiants for a furnace thus far.

 

What are some common locations for in wall Ethernet runs to be terminated?
Looking through our house that was built in ‘89 there are 4 Ethernet runs installed that just have rj45 jacks stuffed in a single gang box with a blank cover on them.
I’ve checked all closets, the outside room where the breaker panel is, as well as the AC closet and cannot find a termination point for the RJ45 or the Coaxial tv cables (there are also 3 or 4 scattered throughout the house but these do have proper wall plates), is the attic a common place to put the termination for such wires? I plan on checking tomorrow as I’m pretty sure it’s the only place I have not checked.
What’s really irritating is whoever added the Cat5 didn’t add any to the office (aka the 3rd bedroom, however it should be pretty obvious it would be first choice for an office) downstairs so I still either have to punch outside and drop a cable down or cut some drywall to drill down to continue through the wall.