1st Gen Lunchtable Thread - General Discussion

It sucks to admit, it just might have been to low. BUT a fair deal for both parties is a win to me. I acquire stuff for reasonable prices I'm okay letting go at reasonable prices as well

 

I'm always happy to pass a deal on. Stuff that I get cheap on TW or whatnot I'll always keep the deal going. This I bought new and just didn't use it too much. Had two charge cycles haha. But it's 1.5 years old too, still I was $30 more than everyone else. I think it's just because it's basically unused and I had some accessories for it.

 

I'm 29 and I don't get hangovers either. As of bruises I know how I got those lol annoyed gf punching me lol

 

I thought about it, people get some pretty badass video of their dogs following them with a drone

 

No just no

 

https://youtu.be/nZkKxfDJZ1M

 

update - so drove my truck around this morning to get the mud washed off (hate working on my truck when it's covered dirt), the CEL is still on and stays on but the sudden dips in power and flashing dash lights have gone away, at least they aren't happening anymore when I hit speed bumps or take tight turns like yesterday. Makes me wonder if maybe something got wet that shouldn't have and was able to dry out overnight?

Bought a multimeter to test the air/fuel sensor, from what I understand it has 4 wires and only two of them should have an OHM reading...if all 4 do then it is faulty and needs replaced? I'm sure it does cause the CEL is still on but I'd like to confirm it before spending $200 on a Denso a/f sensor

Also got a battery tester to keep in the truck and will test the battery to make sure it's good, and got some new 12 gauge wire to make a new battery ground. Gonna check the engine ground too since I'm wondering if maybe that got knocked loose and was causing me problems.

Hope this works

 

I still can’t believe St. Mary’s beat the Zags the other day.

 

@Crodell6

 

I would be a horrible salesman...I can't bring myself to charge more for something than what I paid for it under most circumstances. I got a great deal on an OG Softtopper a couple years back and sold it for the same amount a year later ($120 or something like that). Gave away my first old set of KO2s, practically gave the other set away to Tyler lol. Gave away my stock rear bumper.

Now that I'm typing this out I kind of feel like a fool

 

Weird lights and codes can always be a sign of poor grounding or charging. But if you AF code is hanging around I'd think that might actually be an issue

 

I've had shitty luck with emissions crap since I got this truck...both cats replaced in late 2017, rear O2 replaced a year later and now the front sensor is bad.

My AFR gauge still reads normally, at least as far as I'm able to interpret it...hangs around 14.4 - 14.7 in closed loop and gets richer in open loop depending on boost/throttle. So I haven't really worried much lately about being too lean/too rich but maybe I'm missing something. I need to study up on this stuff more.

 

I remember looking at your battery setup and thinking it was a ‘lil ghetto from all the zip ties and such.

Your battery looked like it was smaller than stock, and if I remember you had an issue with the battery harness or something?

 

Are there any markings on the front diff that tells you the ratio

 

Not that I know of

 

Damn

 

It’s only money, you can always make more

 

It's a 35 AGM Duralast Platinum, 810 CCA ...should be the right battery. But yeah I really do need to get a propery battery cage or something to hold it lol. I'll probably pick one up from the store today.

Yeah I had an issue about a month ago with the positive terminal connector but I replaced it, both connectors are tight and don't move around at all.

 

Are you buying that?

 

Well your code was for a heater circuit malfunction. The temperature of the substrate in the sensor is key to it reading accurately. So a heater malfunction means it can't read well until the exhaust really starts to get toasty and if you say, coast down a hill long enough the sensor may cool down enough to read wrong again without the heater. So it can still read without the heater but who knows if it's accurate