3rd Gen Owners with King Coilovers

Guess I'll be going with 600#. I considered the 650 so I wouldn't preload the coils as much.

 

Just to give you some insight, I’m running 600lb springs with full steel bumper, winch w/synthetic rope, front skid and sliders and it rides pretty nice. Have preloaded them to about 8-9 threads but now sagging on the height. The ride is great but now if I want to go back up, might have to upgrade springs and will probably go to 650s. For a daily driver, sounds like 700lb might be stiff for some.

 

I highly recommend using Filthy Motorsports for your King suspension set ups. They may be a little more money, but Ben will sit with you on the phone for hours to make sure you get the exact set up that you want and what is best for your truck!

 

My non-expert opinion is: If you are not planning on putting a bumper on (Slimline or otherwise) there's really no need to go with springs stiffer than 600 lb.

 

Just installed some Kings on my friend's truck over the weekend. Stock bumper for now(Demello steel bumper and winch going on soon). Option 1 RXTs in the rear. Adjusters at all 4 corners. 650lb springs. No sway bar. 10 firm clicks in the front to compensate for lack of sway bar. 5 clicks in the rear. The front end still feels soft and floats over bumps. 7 threads on driver side. 5 on pass side. Sitting at 2 -7/16" lift both sides, just shy of our 2.5" goal. We will adjust it to 9/7 when bumper is installed to keep a 2.5" lift.

 

I have 650 springs with the ext Kings and TC uca's on my dclb 4x4 and the only extra weight I've added is sliders. I didn't add any additional preload, just left it at the factory setting. I have yet to do my rear suspension and after break-in I'm sitting an inch higher in the front. Mine rides like butter. Ten times better than factory. It absorbs bumps large and small with ease. I can still feel it when the stock rear suspension hits but the front is like riding on marshmallows.

 

I guess we will see, after everything settles and I completely finish the truck if i'm not happy I can easily buy new coils or probably trade someone even...

Time will tell, i do plan to add skids, roof rack rear bumper and plenty of other odds and ends so we shall see.

How was it again you said I'd determine the total lift i got?Also do you recommend removing the sway bar?any benefits or drawbacks?

well even that's promising, bc i have a couple hundred more pounds up front and plan to add more so it may get better, I also may end up having to crank them down a few threads. Time will tell I'm sure.

 

Center hub-to bottom fender. Anything over 20" is the amount of lift achieved for front.
about 5 turns of the thread equals an inch of lift.
Sway bar- touchy subject-you got to do what's right for you. We have adjusters to compensate lean,650lb springs and also important a good leaf pack to fight sway/torsion.

benefits-one awesome offroad ride
drawbacks- swerving to avoid will be limited...just slow down and be a defensive driver.

 

This sounds like the perfect setup for the weight. I know some go for the 700s but I’m weary of it and I personally think it might be a little overkill. Kind of like my E rated tires. E may be too much for these Tacomas. I had C before and loved them and now that I’ve tried the E when I upgraded my tire size, I regret it. Downside is I have to lose BFGs and go with Falkens for the same size or go up one size and stick with BFGs C rated but potentially do a CMC.

 

Written perfectly by you. 700's definitely have a place. We can justify load and weight on one of our 3rd Gens but not for the other. E loads for the weight and psi if justified. Most times the LT tire carcass is the important part for airing down with bead safety. The way the tire plys are laid down are the difference maker for additional psi and trailering weight. E's get punctured as easy as Cs or Ds....Kevlar or Armor Tek is a more significant decision for sidewall protection imho.

 

I'm not going to lie -- the whole lift height measurement process is confusing the hell out of me with these Kings.

I installed my Kings, 600 lb coils, TC UCAs, and Icon RXT leafpacks this weekend on my 2019 TRD Off-road (DCLB).

• I have absolutely NO ADDED WEIGHT on the truck yet.
• I currently have 11 threads showing on drivers side and 9 threads on the passenger side.
• The measurement for centerhub-to-fender is exactly 24" on both sides now. This was an increase of +2.375" on the drivers side and +2.25" on the passenger side.
• Measuring from the ground to the front TSS sensor plate before and after indicates that I gained +2.25" in the very front.
• Measuring from the ground to my hitch receiver in the rear before and after indicates that I gained the same +2.25" in the very rear.

My questions:
1. When people here say that the Kings gave them 2.x inches of lift, are they including the +1" that our third gen trucks supposedly already had from the factory? If that's the case, and I therefore add another inch to all of my measurements, wouldn't that mean that I actually have over 3" of lift now, and that this exceeds the recommended maximum?

2. Can I expect the RXT leaf packs to settle quite a bit? My increase in the rear without added weight appears to be well above the 1.875" of lift expected with option 1.

Everything looked and felt fine after getting my alignment done, but I'm extremely paranoid that something isn't right with the above specs and measurements. There weren't any noticeable vibrations, the CV angles look decent enough, and the suspension felt great whenever I hit a big enough bump to assess it.

I may be over-thinking this...

 

Always measure hub to fender. I usually use a level and make sure it sticks out straight and then measure from that to the fender since my center hub is at an angle compared to the fender. 3rd gens are 21” in the front and 22” in the rear stock. Recheck your measurements but if that’s accurate, you have 3” in the front and that’s going beyond what King recommends. 2.5” is maxing it out.

 

Something else didn't seem correct, so I just went and rechecked everything again. It looks like it may have settled a bit more, or I somehow completely jacked up the initial 24" measurement this afternoon:

My stock measurements:
Front Driver: 20.625
Front Passenger: 20.75
Rear Driver: 21.5
Rear Passenger: 22.0

After lift (updated):
Front Driver: 23.125
Front Passenger: 23.125
Rear Driver: 23.5
Rear Passenger: 24.0

 

This may be a dumb question but are you measuring from the center of the hub or top or bottom ?

 

Center.

 

Those numbers looks more accurate with the thread count you stated

 

Im not sure my measurements are accurate, but with a standard tape I'm getting close to 23.5 on front. I may be pushing the limits on the front, maybe I need to crank it down a few notches. I'm so torn bc its back and forth and alignment every time but I know I'm not getting the ride I should, it's quite bumpy and has a bit of a hit when I approach bumps to be what I have on there. I do have a rear ome hd leaf pack with no bed weight but there's really nothing I can do about the lift in rear and the weight will be added soon enough. Not to mention the vibrations I'm getting

 

I feel much better after re-checking everything. It looks like I ended up with just a hair under +2.5" up front and +2" in the rear. That'll work for now.

More +2.5" porn:

 

Seems like the rear is too low. That’s RXT option 1?



So what’s the verdict here on spring rate. About to pull the trigger. No weight besides sliders. Some people say 600, wheelers says 700. I feel like 650 is maybe a sweet spot but will have longer wait from Kings. Trying to stay up off some 35s with as little preload as possible.

 

The 2" I gained in the rear is actually higher than expected for Option 1. The expected increase for Option 1 while completely unloaded is just 1.875".

I think the picture may be a little deceiving. There is still a small amount of rake when the truck is on flat ground, and the rear fenders are roughly 1.75" higher than the front fenders when measured from the ground.