Intro to fitting 35s (< 3" Lifts for those that wheel and love alignments)

The reason for a difference in caster is to compensate for the road crown. At least in WA the roads are higher in the center to allow rain to drain off to the sides.. In theory if camber and caster have a zero split the vehicle would pull slightly right because its following the road. The reason you split caster and not camber is because caster wont add any additional stress/wear to the tire. where as a split in camber can cause the LF tire to wear differently then the RF.

 

Your not actually @ 4 degrees your caster angle is what shows up on the alignment machine the difference is that without the aftermarket UCA's with the cams in those exact locations you would in theory be @ 0 degrees of caster.. when you add a UCA the shape of the arm pushes the ball joint towards the rear to increases caster but also pushes your tire back with it.. when you replace the UCA'S with SPC the camber can be adjusted this allows you to rotate the cams further then you normally would be able to because your camber angle can be adjusted back down so its not to positive.

 

Ok.. I’m just going over and over this.. driver side LCA cams are maxed upper is set at E.. alignment tech said he couldn’t max out passenger LCA cams and get vehicle to track straight also set at ‘E’ (i actually lost a bit of clearance on passenger from when i brought it here) . But driver side clears better.

 

I do remember having more than that but I wish I could take a pic of mine for reference. I will this weekend for sure.

How is your wheel clearance?

 

Much better overall!! Made a U-turn through a ditch hard over no rub (that’s all i could test it for now).. had to trim the lower inward sections of forward liners away but so far so good.. the only thing i did notice was the passenger boot on UCA was contacting the coil at full droop in position E when i don’t believe it was when it was on D.. driver side was not.. further tweaking may be required!! But CMC was redone. It dives great at 80mph..

here is what you DON’T want your CMC to look like (especially when your truck has 500 miles on it)



This is after:



Overall thumbs up!! We shall see about boot contact later on!!

Thanks

 

I don’t know how the roads are where you live but if clearance is all your going for I would keep raising caster on the RF. I’d say here in WA running .3 degree to .5 degree split is normal.. that would mean you could bump up caster on the RF to 2.5-2.7 if vehicle pulled left then I’d set camber on the RF at .1 degrees positive and lower the LF to either 0 or -.01.. adjusting the camber split this way will compensate for a pull

 

I hope you didn't pay the first time. That looks like something I did my first time welding lol

 

Yup i paid.. 150$ for first cmc.. second time 300$.. never will go back nor will i ever recommend.. horrible horrible job on all 4 corners..

 

This is why I recommend @Timbo's Customs for CMCs to folks in Florida. Yeah you have to drive to Lakeland, but he only charges $100 and it’s done right the first time.

 

Woulda gone there. But another day off work $$ plus drive.. CTM did good..but a little pricey. They said it took longer than usual (3hrs) bc of extra grinding due to sloppy first job

 

Sorry this post took so long. I was on travel and couldn't get any pics of the truck.

So I had it backwards....Front tabs are outward and rear tabs are inward, SPCs are set to E I think.

SPC Setting


Front


Rear

 

Thanks for the pics!! Yea it looks like my uppers are set the same

Passenger Driver

Driver side lowers are maxed. But for whatever reason the tech said he couldn’t max the lowers on the passenger and get it to drive right.. it’s close to max and it clears cab mount and fender. But I haven’t stuffed it yet..

Thanks for the help and input

 

Your uppers are in position D, not E.

 

They look like E. D would be straight in, perp to the frame

 

That is position D.

 

Just more caster I guess

 

I posted an option for some more aggressive fender trimming in my build thread.
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/a-horse-with-no-name-victory-4x4-3rd-gen.586207/#post-20147613

 

I think it's because his pictures are taken at an angle, but to me it looks like they are in E.

Also, so just for future knowledge - set the rear cam bolt so the lower is set at the most outward position, and the front gets set the opposite to bring it inward?...or does the front get left alone and that is what is used to set camber and toe?

I'm so confused.

 

rear cam all the way out is max caster

 

Just gonna leave this video I made here

https://youtu.be/Q1304s4crMU