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2008 Tacoma ABS ECM module fried from Reverse Polarity Jump Start

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by sfreema7, Mar 19, 2019.

  1. Mar 19, 2019 at 1:03 PM
    #1
    sfreema7

    sfreema7 [OP] New Member

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    Scott
    Hi Everyone - New to the site, first post, but was extensively searching through these forums when recently I made a giant mistake. Thought I'd let everyone know how it worked out and hopefully can be of assistance to people in the future.

    I was jumpstarting the girlfriends 2008 Tacoma TRD from my 2013 Ram 1500 and was not paying attention. I reversed the polarity on MY truck (the Ram) and attached the positive to the negative terminal and vice-versa. I won't go into detail on how I'm such an idiot haha.

    Anyways - burning through the cable and sparks flying realised what I had done. Fixed it and jumpstarted her truck okay with no issues...or so I thought. The ABS Light and Emergency Brake Light were illuminated. No ABS was present also in the truck.

    I plugged in my code reader and got the code: C0215 - Rear Speed Sensor LH Circuit

    I thought that was weird, as it wasn't a coincidence it came on immediately following a bad jump.

    It turns out the ABS pump control module (ECM) is really the only electronics not protected by the ignition. Normally vehicles protect against us stupid humans from doing damage to them. I figured I'd take a shot and look at replacing the ABS ECM module. The dealership quoted me $1100!!! It was around $350 to send in for an ECM repair to ecmdoctor. I managed to find on Ebay a same model pump and control module and offered $50 and got it. I swapped just the ECM, no need to do anything with the brakes (only took 20 mins), would have taken 5 but those damn screws and my big thumbs....

    Anyways, that solved the issue. Drove it for 5 minutes and the lights went off and ABS back in the vehicle.

    Hope that helps someone who has a similar issue - the code for the LR Speed current sensor is not always correct, it had nothing to do with that sensor.
     
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    TnShooter, PITCHBACK, DVexile and 4 others like this.
  2. May 14, 2019 at 5:47 PM
    #2
    tdmc

    tdmc Member

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    Thanks for the info. I've got that issue, but I myself have not jumped my vehicle in the past year and change that I have owned it. Dealer who sold it to me or the previous owner (1) might have done just that though. Still the light has been in flux, on and off in intervals. Please let me know if your light is still off. I would love to hear that this is the answer I have been looking for.
     
  3. May 15, 2019 at 3:08 AM
    #3
    fxntime

    fxntime Well-Known Member

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    I have gone 100% to jump packs in the past 6-7 years, 1000 CCA and reverse polarity protection means even on a dark and stormy night I can't screw up and unless there is a starter issue, pretty much anything will crank. I keep one in all my vehicles now. [I have a smaller one in the old Miata]

    I will say this, when batteries die nowadays, they die hard, no warning signs like the days of old.
     
  4. May 16, 2019 at 9:02 AM
    #4
    Jess-YODA-coma

    Jess-YODA-coma Active Member

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    2010 double cab TRD SR5-Grey- Running 33's
    2010 double cab-grey, light bars, 3 inch lift, 33x12.x17. RDR wheels
    @
    sfreema7
    Interesting, I have the same codes. I just got the truck a week ago. Its been raining the whole time. This weekend I am looking forward to getting underneath and checking the wiring of the rear sensors. I have the codes C0210- rear right speed sensor, C0215- rear left speed sensor, C1238- Foreign object is attached on tip of right rear speed sensor?

    Wondering about this EMC. I' will have to look into that. Did you just get access to it than take it out, get the part number off it, to do the search for the part?
     
  5. May 16, 2019 at 4:52 PM
    #5
    tdmc

    tdmc Member

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    @Jess-YODA-coma
    When looking at your right and left speed sensors, I would suggest you take a look at your bearings as well, make sure that they are all good. The foreign object, in the worst case scenario, could be your bearing is busted and grease is 'spilling' on to your sensor; middle case scenario (?), your sensor may be busted; best case scenario, it is just some debris.
    I didn't check mine, don't have time, nor do I have the equipment or experience, but I did have a tech look at it, and good thing bc my bearing casing was cracked, and grease, grease everywhere. Fortunately the bearings were still in place.
     
    Last edited: May 18, 2019
    Jess-YODA-coma likes this.
  6. Apr 28, 2020 at 11:28 AM
    #6
    PITCHBACK

    PITCHBACK New Member

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    LEVEL KIT

    I just want to say thank you for this post, been driving my truck for 4 months without ABS, Sensor was replaced LR wheel, but didn't fix the problem...finally replaced the ABS ECM, YUP!! Fixed all the ABS and Brake lights warning errors. Once again a BIG THANK YOU!! Sir..
     
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    #6
  7. Sep 29, 2022 at 12:49 PM
    #7
    upnorthguy2

    upnorthguy2 New Member

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    Another thanks to the contributors to this thread. Was late for a meeting, rushed, didn't pay attention and reverse jumped my truck. All fuses were good, but I had the typical ABS and BRAKE lights on. ABS codes came up with bad circuit for RF and LR ABS sensors.

    As the cheapest option, I picked up a set of four wheel sensors on ebay (about $25). Swapped sensors - no change to codes.

    Found this thread and acquired an ABS pump with matching model numbers for the pump in my truck. The info about how to remove the wire harness to the ABS ECM was super helpful from this post: "It was as simple as undoing the connector (which is easy but you need to know how to disconnect it properly…pull the white locking thing up and it should just disconnect"). I used a small flathead to get under the locking tab that is up against the ABS pump body. The other side you can get a grip onto it.

    Just fired up my rig and the ABS and BRAKE lights went out. Thanks for all the info here!
     
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    #7

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