Anything welding

No

 

thanks " Reds" ??

 

Bruh it’s the first mod.



Especially this one I just picked up, the guard only can go in one orientation, ensuring it will always be a pita.

 

5 grinders and all the guards are in the scrap pile before the 1st disc goes on.

 

Same, except for the one with the cutoff wheels. I've never grenaded a flap wheell, wire brush, or grinding wheel. cutoff wheels, probably explode one in 20.

 

To each there own I guess years of being on real jobs just has me used to leaving the guards on.

I watched one person get asked to leave because of not having the guard on the grinder

 

@EatSleepTacos cucumber slices for future reference. I know it ended up being a different issue. Just an FYI.




I'll take 6010 too. It's like the lick em and stick em rod for stitching up anything.

Could just use 7010....

 

Fact.


I actually use the edge of the gaurd to rock on and lower a zip wheel onto the toes if I need to touch up a startstop before the next pass

 

Agreeeeddd.

I even hate the old metabo’s that have the trigger on the back that you can turn on and it keeps itself on. Way too dangerous.

Guards should always be used.

 

One in 20? I’d get new wheels or stop forcing it if you’re breaking that many.

I’m in construction and while they do explode... it’s really not a common thing unless you jam em or use a wheel that got wet or chipped.

A cutoff wheel that explodes can literally go through a face shield so nope nope nope. Risk ain’t worth the reward.

 

Yeah, this was a package of cheap ones.

 

@EatSleepTacos From what I can tell, the only difference between the Titanium 140 and the 170 is that the 170 can run on 120v and 240v input whereas the 140 can only run on 120v input. Does that sound about accurate? I only have 120v input available at my current home, but that could be different in the future. Debating whether the extra $100 now is worth it for a maybe down the road.

 

yes it is. itll also be a bonus when you go to sell it at some point if you do

 

No you don't

 

Unless you have a 20A circuit, you're not going to be able to run full 140 amps with 120, let alone 170a.

 

This is true. I trip my 15 amp breaker with my Hobart 140 at half power.

 

Thanks. A seemingly helpful response.

I have no clue what my house has, but the little Lincoln handy mig I have trips the breaker from time to time. So I’d assume less than a 20A circuit.

With that said, would purchasing a nicer (relative only to me and my current handy mig) 140/170 unit even be worthwhile?

 

FWIW.... the welder I just bought will use 120 or 240.
I tried it on 120 before I installed a 240 outlet and I tripped a 15amp circuit frequently and couldn't weld thicker stuff.
I installed a 240 60A outlet and it works much much better and has never tripped.
I would definitely get the 240 unit if I were you and explore what it would take to install a 240 outlet.
Do you have any open breaker spots in your panel?

 

I made a small extension for my dryer plug and mounted another box with a 220 plug up where it's easy to reach. I just unplug the dryer and plug in the welder when I need it. Of course, if your dryer isn't as accessible as mine you'd need a longer power cord for your welder

 

I do. And that is the main reason I'm even considering going with a 120/240 input machine.

My breaker panel is in an easily accessible location in my garage, and my wife's uncle used to be a licensed electrician and has mentioned he'd be willing to help me install everything. I honestly just don't know the approximate cost of the materials needed to accomplish the job.