FS: Complete axles 4.10 front and rear - 2nd Gen Tacoma

SOLD...
Items: rear 2nd gen axle wheel mounting surface to wheel mounting surface, 4.10 gears. Front complete clamshell, 4.10 gears
Located: Colorado Spring, CO
Price: $1100 USD OBO
Details: I bought these axles for my Taco a little over a year ago from a parts dealer in Oregon - they were brand new. I then had a friend who owns a 4x4 shop in Colorado hook me up with axles with ARB's, so I took these out and left them at his shop. I would estimate about 10-12,000 miles on them. If you want your auto taco to run larger tires but keep the revs down, these axles are a good option as they are complete. PM me for information. Note that I don't live in Colorado, but they are available at his shop (this is a private sale though and not related to his shop) - he can do install as well.

 

How would you compare these with your 4.56s? Huge difference? What size tire you run with them? I'm getting ready to put 285/75r16 tires on and I'm wondering which gears to go with.

 

It's hard to say cause everyone has different needs. I do like the 4.56's, but you have to accept that you rev higher. I run 265's, so I'm a bit up there right now - 2500 rpm on the freeway at 70. But I don't do longer distances that often, so I accept that. If you tow, the 4.10's are nicer since towing with the 4.56's in 4th gear mean your over 3000 rpm at anything over 60. That said, if you tow significant weight like more than 5000 pounds, you almost need to be over 3000 rpm. I likely wouldn't have changed to 4.56 if the ARB's didn't come up. For the price somedays I think I should have stayed with the 4.10s and just put an ARB in the rear. Hope that helps.

 

Thanks for the info! Pretty sure I want to go with 4.10s now, and as for yours, would ARB be about the only locker I could add to these? I see Nitro sells 4.10 gears for my rear diff with the factory e-locker, wonder which one is the best route.

 

What year did they come off of?

 

For Taco John - I don't know about the factory elocker, but I chose the ARB as it gives me an air supply for airing up tires I'm not sure what else is available, but I think ARB is the only aftermarket selectable locker.

For Red Baron - they were not off of a "year". They were new when I bought them. I think this parts supplier bought a whole bunch of them through a distribution network and then sold them. They still had all the factory yellow markings on them when I bought them.

 

Eaton makes a selectable E-locker as well.

 

Only reason I ask is you can see where the oil is on the tube where axles were pulled to remove the third, I think they were replaced and sold as new. I could be wrong though.

 

yup, you are wrong... I don't mean to be rude as I don't mind any questions but you aren't phrasing it as a question but as speculative. I'm sure you understand.

I can't say what I did there, could have been wd40 when I removed the spring bolts, or the rest of the axle is dirty and that's the cleanest part. Could have been anything. They were not apart and were factory type paint when I bought them and unmarked, except for some road grime and some grease as they were hauled up to me in the base of a friends autocarrier when I bought them, so I had to clean up a bit. And if you take your shafts out you don't get oil there... at least I don't. And as stated I did drive over 10,000 miles with them. And they have been sitting in my friends shop for over 6 months now cause I never got around to selling them... maybe he spilled something on them. And here I'm being speculative.

 

Don’t see the e-locker motor, is it an open diff or lsd diff?

 

Open. I did the same thing as the OP except I pulled the 4.10 axles from a 4banger and installed a Harrop/Eaton elocker in the rear and have this in my truck now. Perfect with my 33”s

 

Josh, they are open. Sorry for the confusion, I think TacoJohn and I were simply discussing lockers as a future step for axles like these. WR250R eh... sheesh I'd like to have one of those - good choice. Would make a good stable mate to my Africa Twin.

Oops, over post - thanks HX.

 

I keep thinking which is better, 4.10 or 4.30 for my truck on 33” might go to 34” at some point, idk.
Defiantly want to rehear but need to add rear locker and front lsd

 

Non locker correct?

 

Correct - open diffs.

 

Bump - Obo

 

If you decide to separate I’d be interested in the front.

 

Speaking from experience with 4.30 gears. If you have an auto 4.0 and your truck is a daily driver you’d want 4.10 gears. These Will work really well for 285-295 tires. Kick it up to 4.30-4.56 for off-road rigs with added weight, constant towing, 35” tires, etc.

 

Yea, 4.0, auto, DD, but also have sliders, full skids, rtt on winch up front rear bumper... she’s heavy. While I don’t tow often, I need to start more with the hitch carrier due the dirt bikes

 

Sounds like 4.30 would be a great option for your setup. “True” 33 tires would be 295/70/17 and 295/75/16. A tire I’ve always been curious about running on my truck is the 33-34ish 285/75/17