DIY, Brake fluid flush, 4x4 - TRD Off-Road with Speed Bleeders

Just ordered a set. Been wanting to flush my brakes now I can do it myself whenever I have time.

 

Just did this exact procedure today and the electronic pump in the Off Road brake system is so cool. Put a fresh 32oz bottle of DOT4 fluid in so it should all be brand new fluid in the lines.

I can echo some previous posts about the flush being "different" on the front brakes. When I bled the rear brakes, the pedal would have resistance and the pump would whirr for as long as I held it down.

When I did the front brakes, the pedal seemed to sink all the way in if I tried, and I had to use my foot to "hit" the electronic switch that activated the pump, and even then it would only run briefly. Luckily, there's less line distance going from the master cylinder to the front brakes so you don't have to pump out much fluid before you're getting fresh fluid.

Maybe it's just an odd characteristic of the braking system? After closing everything up and going for a test drive, it felt no different than before, so mission success I guess.

 

Anyone know if the p/n are the same for 3rd gen? Clutch slave as well...

 

Interesting. Everything I've read to date suggests this "automated" way of flushing brakes with the electronic setup only works for the rear brakes. The fronts are bleed in the more traditional 2 man style. Sounds like you were able to use the ABS solenoids to bleed the fronts as well.
Not sure what you meant by "use my foot to "hit" the electronic switch...".

 

Can you recall where you read that information? Curious to look into the technical details.

The "electric switch" is a point in the brake travel where you can hear the electric pump start whirring. It's about an inch into the travel of the pedal on the off-road models.

I'm not even all that sure if the TRD OR brakes work in the typical manner because it seems like the pressure is strictly driven by that pump, so then I wouldn't even be able to bleed the calipers using the traditional method.

 

Can anyone confirm if Russell speed bleeders pn 639560 worked on their taco, any gen?

 

I'll point to 4 posts from threads on the Toyota 4Runner forum. The 5th Gen 4R and some 4th Gen 4Rs use the electro-hydraulic system the OP of this thread discusses in post #1.
The comments made in the threads below are likely from DIY types. It got my attention as a number of people over there believe this system will only bleed rear brakes and not front brakes. There are other posts over there that indicate this opinion. I stopped at 4.

Post #10 - 2nd to last paragraph Post #18 Post #53 Post #13

 

2nd gen

$20 Russell 639570 Speed Bleeder

Russell 639570 Speed Bleeder - Front

$21 Russell 639560 Speed Bleeder

Russell 639560 Speed Bleeder - Rear

cannot confirm… I just ordered the rear.

 

Thanks. I ordered three sets of 639560, the extra for the clutch slave. The raybestos catalog listed them the same for all gens so I took a shot at these.

 

So after reviewing this thread and the 4 I mentioned above at t4r.org, it would seem that most are unable to bleed the fronts with the pumping action started by the ABS solenoids. In this thread - for member HB Taco - post #58 - this is not the case. He believes the fronts do bleed.
One of these days when I have access to my wife's 2014 4R, I'll find out. I will not be using Speed Bleeders though. If I can remember, I'll update this thread.
Thanks for your effort Crom.

 

@2015WhiteOR

Got access to Toyota's TIS - Toyota Information System. Extracted what's pertinent to bleeding brakes on Tacoma's with the system Crom discussed in post #1.

3. BLEED BRAKE LINE

(a) Turn the ignition switch to ON, and wait until the pump motor has stopped.
HINT:
Pump operating sound can be heard.

(b) Front brake line.
(1) Connect the vinyl tube to the brake caliper.
(2) Depress the brake pedal several times, then loosen the bleeder plug with the pedal held down (step D).
(3) At the point when the fluid stops coming out, tighten the bleeder plug, then release the brake pedal (step E).
(4) Repeat step D and E until all the air in the fluid has been bled out.
Torque:
11 N·m {110 kgf·cm, 8ft·lbf}
(5) Repeat the above procedures to bleed the other brake line.

(c) Rear brake line.
(1) Connect the vinyl tube to the wheel cylinder.
(2) Depress the brake pedal, hold it, and then loosen the bleeder plug.
HINT:
Brake fluid is pumped out automatically.
(3) Loosen the bleeder plug and release air.
NOTICE:
Keep brake fluid in the reservoir tank above the MIN line during the above procedures.
(4) When the air is completely bled out of the brake fluid through the bleeder plug, tighten the bleeder plug.
Torque:
11 N·m {110 kgf·cm, 8ft·lbf}
(5) Repeat the above procedures to bleed the other brake line.

 

I was fussing with my front calipers tonight and can confirm that they do need to be bled manually. At least after doing what this thread was created for, the speed bleeders make it really easy.

 

did those 63960 Russell bleeders fit and work in the rear 2nd GEN? im thinking of getting the 639570 for the front too, from reading the reviews they should fit the front calipers, for the price of the Russell bleeders although they aren't stainless is a lot more reasonable for a set($11.57 a set) than the $15 per bleeder stainless per speedbleeders.com, pretty good deals for the Russells sets on AMAZON with great reviews.

 

I haven’t installed yet. I did end up buying the front, hasn’t arrived yet. Check the Amazon warehouse I got them for ~$8.

 

i was looking at those warehouse deal, cant beat that price, usually its just the packaging damaged. can you give us a update or review on them when u get them in. Im ready to pull the trigger on them the price is really good, so are the reviews.

 

pair

 

per set, they sell AMAZON Warehouse deals where they are considered Used because the package is damaged, FYI if your not satisfied with the part or it don't fit right AMAZON gives u a free Return stamp to mail it back, I bought a few Bilstein 4600 shocks at 1/2 price cause the box was damaged all other parts were in there tho, I AMAZON warehouse deals. the RUSSELL speed bleeders are only $11.57 per set NEW.

 

My bleeders came last week, quick shipping from Speed Bleeders and I just got to the job today. What a easy job bleeding brakes is now. Only small non issue is although my truck is a ‘10 with original fluid, is was still clean so I had to guess as to how much to run through. My method was to fill the master to the top and run it down just below the min line and call it good. Did that for each corner and used all of a 32oz btl. While I was in there I took a file and descaled the vanes on my front rotors. I don’t put a lot of miles on so pads and rotors can wait until fall. Pics are of my pile of rust scale and how clean the old fluid was.

 

great job, do the brakes feel firmer since you Sped bled them?

 

Nope. Just took it out for a test drive. Feel exactly the same as before, which was honestly fine. I did it because this thread motivated me to do maintenance that should be done, and as stated, the speed bleeders make this an easy one man job. But I do feel better knowing that there’s all new fresh fluid in there.