Florida B.S. Thread

@Taco No Baka I'm puttin this here, so we don't cloud up Tim's Build Thread lol. It was Hammered into my head by Mr. Batt's. He was my Automotive Shop Teacher in High School and it has always stuck w/ me lol.

 

No worries

 

The OGT got some love with having her idle issues fixed and getting to try out Natty's new shoes before she does, but I headed over to St. Pete to day and got Natty's Flowmaster Super 50 put on today. She sounds pretty damn good. At warm idle you can hardly tell she isn't stock, but with a little throttle she growls nicely. Interior noise...no resonance I could detect and a soft, low growl at interstate speeds you could easily cover with the radio. If I had to critique one thing it would be the welds aren't as pretty as @allenfab 's, but then I've never really looked at Todd's thin walled welds. I'm almost sure he could do better though. I'm happy with it though. It was worth the drive...and sitting in front of the shop for an hour before they opened to make sure I was first in line, haha.

 

Anyone familiar with RFI/EMI? Our new facility in Cocoa is strategically located between 3 radio towers (an FM and Cocoa PD communications directly across the street, and a 50kW AM station a couple of miles away behind us). The RFI was wreaking havoc on our blood processors, so we had to bring in some older units and our digital scales are getting blasted so we had to get old school manual beam scales. Taking RF readings around the facility and equipment in spots reading below 10V/m seem to be okay, but people moving around can cause quite a bit of propagation. We have a couple of areas in the 20-30V/m category and a couple of isolated spots that spike to 1200-2400V/m. We've tried RF chokes and have had the building tested for noise through the electrical system. I'm about to lose my mind...

 

What idle issues were you having? And how'd you fix them? I'm having some issues with mine also

 

Does it have AFM/DOD? What code is it throwing?

 

Yes it has AFM. P0307 and an occasional rough idle.

 

Clear code, swap injector 5 & 7, run it until code pops back up. If it’s still 7 there’s a good chance you have collapsed a lifter. Those DOD motors are prone to premature failures. I’ve done deletes on 2 6.2’s, if you do have that issue let me know and I can point you in the right direction. I will keep my fingers crossed for you that that’s not the case.

 

Thank you. Would you be able to hear the collapsed lifter?

 

Ever since the rear bracket broke off my air box and left a big gaping hole on the clean air side out at Croom which caused ingestion of a bunch of pine needles, leaves, and muddy water (not enough to hydro-lock it) about 3 or 4 years ago, the truck has idled a couple hundred RPMs high. I futzed around with it, pulling, disassembling, cleaning the TB and spraying the MAF sensor down with MAF cleaner with no luck. I took it to Toyota and they said it was the IABV. I replaced it to no effect and decided to just live with it.

However, after the Fall Camp and Ride, when I had to pull the trans to replace the throwout bearing, the upstream O2 sensor got caught on the bellhousing and stretched bar tight before I noticed it. After I put the transmission back in, the IABV was operating backwards. It would start off at low idle when cold and then idle up to about 1600 RPMs when it warmed up. I replaced the upstream O2 sensor and swapped out the IABV for the old one I replaced before (since it didn't solve the issue when I put the new one in it I held on to the old one figuring it was probably still good). None of that had any effect so I figured I broke a wire or something in the O2 Sensor wiring harness or something it tied into...or the ECU was malfunctioning. The only thing that did have an effect was unplugging the IABV. The truck would idle right down when it was unplugged. Anyway, I took it to Toyota to let them chase wires since I'd rather take a jab in the eye with a sharp stick than chase a wiring problem. Long story short, they once again claimed it was the IABV and proceeded to replace it, which I didn't actually ever authorize, but I didn't really care because I didn't believe that to be the issue and that they would only start looking for the actual problem once they saw for themselves it wasn't the issue. Well...they claimed it was the issue and the truck was fixed, and in fact the truck is idling better than it has since the air box broke. As to whether that was the issue and I was wrong or they were wrong and didn't want to admit it but actually found and fixed whatever was wrong (probably something simple that wouldn't have cost as much as the IABV replacement or they would have charged me for that too), I really don't care. They soaked me for replacing the valve, but I got them to give me a 10% discount by showing them what I could have got the genuine Toyota valve for which was about half of what they were charging me for it, and I just decided to take my beating and be happy the truck was idling better than it had in years.

Anyway, my recommendation would be to clean the MAF sensor. If that doesn't work, take the TB off and take the IABV off the TB and clean them both good. If you're still having issues, pull your plugs and check them. Replace them if they are worn out. Then it gets expensive. If the problem remains, there are a lot of pricey parts that could be causing the issue: the IABV, the MAF, the O2 sensors, fuel injectors, etc... It could get expensive really fast if you start shotgun troubleshooting. Or you can find a buddy with a code reader with a diagnostics function that knows how to interpret the data and that might help find the problem for you. Otherwise, you can learn to live with the issue if it's not that bad or you can take it to Toyota, take your beating, eat ramen noodles for a while, and be happy the issue is fixed.

 

I'm hoping that cleaning the throttle body and MAF tomorrow will do the job lol seems like it wants to die at an idle and is hesitant when I give it gas sometimes

 

Check the plugs too. Actually, I think I'd start with the plugs.

 

you throwing a CE light? I'd start with the easy stuff like the MAF sensor and cleaning the throttle body. If that doesn't help replace your upstream/downstream sensors depending on if your throwing codes or not

 

Oh, and another cheap/easy thing it could be...replace the fuel filter.

 

No check engine light, was planning on doing the fuel filter too lol

 

Not likely, it’s not collapsed in the traditional sense. Plus all ls motors tick. The roller on the lifter will most likely be pitted and the cam lob will be damaged. It will just feel like a regular misfire.

 

I noticed something interesting today. The T4R pops a P0440 (evap system leak) code periodically, usually when it's over three quarters of a tank of gas and I drive over a rough patch of road. It popped one on me today and I realized, when I installed the suspension, I took the spare tire out and I didn't put it back in until I went to the muffler shop. At no time while the spare was out, even riding trails at Citrus, did it pop the P0440 code on me. Evap canister is located right above the spare tire. Anyone think this is a coincidence?

 

Wonder how to get rid of that trash. Have a big canister system with a bunch of crap on the fender of the driver side on my 97

 

So does the OGT. You should have a lot of space on the passenger side fender once you get rid of all that ABS BS. I think I've seen people relocate their Evap cannister to the top of the fuel tank, but it was an 01-04 Taco so it might have already been there.

 

Shocks will be taking its place. Want cruise control lol. That’s going too