All Things Bikes and Tacos! (...and every vehicle imaginable)

Depends on what kind of riding your goal is? I do have a cheap 29er rock hopper and its not as enjoyable as my bronson.

 

do you think 29" wheels are better than 27.5" for riding? I'm a long way away from doing what you do I know that for sure, but I would like to be even better at doing my local trails. You've been to Monte Sano and know it, I basically have to stick to the beginner/intermediate stuff but like you said that's mainly going to be saddle time.

haha well said. I definitely don't have the dough to jump into an expensive bike just for the hell of it, but like cheap upgrades along the way is doable....but are they worth it?

 

I haven't experienced a whole lot of different types of riding, mainly because I don't have much very close to me.

So far I really enjoy the gradual downhill and drops that I've been able to do, but I don't see myself doing the insane downhill racing type stuff. I like navigating rock gardens, but again don't think I've done very much...

On my current bike I do ABHOR uphill sections lol

 

Well, without going into crazy depth... i do have a suggestion for you are an entry price point for a decent build. long story short on your question however is YES, the bike does make the difference. geometry on bikes in the past few years has seen an overhaul compared to older bikes. also i would look at doing at least a 1x11 drivetrain though eagle (1x12) is pretty affordable now. if you are on the bigger side and plan on riding trail i suggest taking note of the fork a slightly beefier suspension will benefit you on the downs. dropper seatpost is a must, it has essentially changed the sport and is for more enjoyable for more up and down rides. anyhow. below is my suggestion you could also do a step below this bike and go with the Roscoe 7 but hey why not get nice components and spend a smidge more. there are a ton of other options out there from other brands as well. more than id like to list. but you can get away with a great full build hardtail if you are will to spend about 1,400-2,000
https://www.trekbikes.com/us/en_US/...s/roscoe/roscoe-8/p/23608/?colorCode=greydark
https://www.trekbikes.com/us/en_US/...e/roscoe-7/p/23444/?colorCode=greenvisibility

 

Geometry has come a long way the past three years. 29" wheels are now nearly as agile as 27.5" which has not always been the case.

The single best thing you can do to be better is follow guys faster than you and build confidence.

 

If you want a nice bike you should totally get one but a lot of guys convince themselves a better bike will make them faster. While it does help the biggest inhibitor of riding fast is the rider.

Just get in shape and push harder on every ride. You will be amazed how much better you get. Unpopular opinion; download Strava and record rides. The leaderboard times will really motivate you to push harder

 

check this video out, especially the second trail "Lightning". That's what I think will be my favorite type of riding where you CAN go super fast or you CAN tone it down some, meaning it's not the side of a dadgum mountain...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CxJmhYyjIgQ

like how much would upgrades like handlebars and going to a 1x10 and whatever else really help? what advantage do they really truly provide? is it worth putting those on my cheapo bike or is it better to hold out and buy a better bike?

 

I think the answers respectively are "yes", and "no, but kinda"

Cheaper bikes tend to have poorly chosen component groups that make riding plain un-fun. "Fancy" bikes tend to have better component groups that are just outright better and tend to make things more rideable. A solid hardtail is better than a poor full suspension bike for sure. and I think that proves the point. You could certainly upgrade a few things (like the fork and brakes, and maybe a dropper) and have a decent bike. But it seems like there is a certain threshold that below the line, it is easier to just craigslist your steed and start from scratch.

I see a lot of my friends that start out on their lower end first bike and are absolutely miserable, as the component spec just doesn't make riding comfortable or fun. Once they move up to a proper mtn bike with better parts, they get so much better. Sounds like this may be the category you are in and thinking of climbing out of.

On a similar and personal note, I know for sure that my first bike (Stumpjumper) started to hold me back, so that's when I bought my Bronson. BUT I don't think that it was necessarily the bike itself that held me back. It was how I interacted with the bike. I got a large stumpy, and it seemed to fit OK, but when I moved to my bronson, it made my stumpy feel like a 4x / DJ in terms of how small it felt. That, in hindsight, made me feel less comfortable on the descents, and just overall less in tune with the bike. My bronson had the same tires, wheel size, travel, etc. And I have CRUSHED all of my local trail PRs I set with my stumpy. SC was definitely more "long, low, and slack". Being longer reach and slacker made me feel like I wasn't gonna OTB everything, and could hit the mank with some composure. But that was because I started on a relatively high end beginner bike. If I bought another Stumpy, it would be an XL. Sometimes just being more informed about the bike you are looking at can help you.


I feel like MTB riding has 4 stages:

1. You have a bike and are jerry AF. The bike is not the problem. But you are learning the basics.

2. You start to outride the bike and feel it holds you back to some degree, so you go buy a "fancy" bike (sounds like where you are)

3. You start to learn again as the bike can take way more than most people can give it, and it is up to you to keep the rubber side down with skill (where I currently am)

4. (most dont achieve this) You get hella good and could crush the local talent on a tricycle. I rode a DH lap with Cody Kelley last season and successfully kept up for the first 4 pedal strokes.

 

I think you accurately nailed my thought process..

 

Riding with pros is so much fun. Those guys have NO fear

 

You're basically a pro you joker

 

I appreciate your sentiment and I wish I could relish in it but truth is I'm a mid-pack racer.

The u21 guys are killing everyone

 

well I look like a fat guy on a walmart scooter compared to you. seeing some of the stuff at windrock that I know you've done I would've crapped a brick, fallen over, and cried.

 

I agree. The bike is just a tool. But a harbor freight tool and an OG Craftsman tool are not in the same league and one will probably let you down before the other.

I think the price point now is a tad higher than that now, but you're on the right track.

Better? Not necessarily. Different and a matter of opinion? Absolutely. I think tighter trails are more conducive to 27.5 but the rollover ability of 29ers for rocks and stuff is greater as well. Each has its pros and cons.

Absolutely. Getting "towed" into stuff really helps learn the pace, but also might get you to hit stuff you wouldn't ride without your homies stoking you up.

Agreed. When you are on the fence about whether to sneak in one more lap...the answer is always yes.

And Strava is super helpful to me. 1. to compete against myself, but also 2. To try and catch that next person on the list above you. ESPECIALLY if you know that person and can heckle them later. Just don't be a dickhead and everything will be OK, but thats more just life advice...

 

sorry for all the questions....but also what about GEAR? I saw a bunch of guys up on the mountain this weekend rocking the same shoes, all in biking shorts, etc etc. Do you guys "clip in"? I don't even really know what that entails...again, advice appreciated..

 

The dudes that I am in awe of are the 40-45 guys that physiologically are at their peak, mixed with a little pent up Dad frustration. Most tend to ride XC, but they absolutely light a fire with their ride times.

 

I love talking about cycling questions are cool

Clip-in or clipless pedals are rider preference and one of two options. I switch between the two.

They look like this (The primary style is SPD)


And a cycling-specific shoe is required with cleats on the bottom. This enables you to "pull" the pedals up in addition to "pushing" down in the stroke.

But don't get caught up in the gear. Just get a quality helmet and gloves basically. My favorite thing in the world is rolling up to the kitted-out bros with jerseys and full faces and smoke them in my half shell, khaki shorts, and t-shirt lol

 

Lots of opinion, little facts related to gear selection. Find what works for you.

That said, some things are near monopoly. "riding shoes" tend to come from a handful of brands only, with 5.10 being very likely the most prevalent.

Some gear also tends to be more conducive to the sport. Try riding in cutoff jean shorts then hit the trails in a set of riding shorts and padded liner. You will notice a difference. The unfortunate part is any apparel that gets labelled for a certain sport tends to be more expensive. A Pearl Izumi jersey can be like $80, while a very comparable C9 workout shirt from target may very well be comparable for most of us.

Clips vs Flats will be a debate for the ages. My personal opinion is you get better on flats faster because you have to focus on keeping your feet on the pedals. You can also bail easier if things go south. But clips can help keep you on the pedals when the going gets tough, and can help you be more efficient in the overall pedalling category.

 

yeah I think the 5.10s are what everyone had on there....is shoes an investment I should make? I usually ride in my Vibram five fingers right now...

 

I get new/novice riders all the time that come up to me on the trails to ask about getting faster through section "x", or just how to get "faster" overall. I tell nearly all of them the same thing. When it comes to something as physically and mentally intensive as riding and racing a mountain bike; you are only going to get out of it what you put into it.

Rules and Best Practices:

1. Trees, rocks, and natural features don't move, you do; bend around the trees (be like the spoon from The Matrix). There should be as much thought, time, and effort given to increasing your body's flexibility as there is to your leg strength. Everything on your body that engages with the bike is an extension of your core. If your core isn't strong enough to be the foundation for your arms, legs, and head; you'll never be as fast or smooth as the experts.
2. Which brings me to point 2; Smooth = Fast and very often, Slow = smooth. Trying to overthink and/or force your way through an obstacle or feature often proves to be the worst possible approach. Think about it loing enough to see your way through it, then ride it and make mental notes. Where could you have made a better decision? What pieces of that section prevented you from changing your line, were you unintentionally riding the brakes when you could have just let it float?
3. Physical fitness is just that; it is fitness obtained through physical effort. Hard, unrelenting, sometimes pain cave levels of physical effort. Find your current pain threshold, then keep pushing past it incrementally to find a new one. The saying by Greg Lemond of "It doesn't get any easier; you just get faster." is the motto of the fit cyclist.
4. Whether you think you can or think you can't; you're right. With increased fitness, experience, and exposure comes increased skill and confidence. The more you ride trail/feature "x"; the better you will get at cleaning it. I can't count the number of MTB races where I've just watched in jaw-dropped awe as I pre-rode some really technical sections of the course as many times as I could fit before an out-of-town race only to have my doors blown off by some local that rides it all the time. There's always a better/cleaner line than you can usually see and the best way to find it is to ride it until it becomes second nature.
5. Tuck and roll. When shit goes pear-shaped, and it will; just relax as much as possible, roll it out, pick up your yard sale items and get back to riding. Do that section again, or make notes of what went wrong, but don't just avoid it in the future.
6. Finally, don't try to eat the apple in one bite... you'll just choke and give up. Take small bites, put those bites together into larger bites of adding sections together, then tackle the apple.

Gear matters... but only so much. I ride/race MTB predominately on a rigid single speed hardtail 29" and I cannot tell you how many riders on stupidly expensive FS bikes I've encountered on any given trail or at any given race that just shake their head in disbelief at how fast a SS rigid can make it through a course. A single speed forces you to ride smooth, pick the cleanest lines, use your flexibility to your advantage, and make the trail "flow"; whether it was designed that way or not. I cannot afford to just ride over every root, rock, rut, downed tree, etc... like the FS riders because their suspension sucks up all that chatter. If I want to be fast, I have to be on my A game all the time, looking down trail as far as possible, reading the lines, looking where others have cleaned it and how they did it, make adjustments on the fly and warn others that they probably don't want to follow my line. That's not to say that FS bikes don't have their merits, but for most trails that don't have a bomber DH segment; they are not always the right tool for the job and often just overkill for the trail. Don't get me wrong, I genuinely LOVE the speed and effortlessness of descending on a properly set up fully, but those opportunities are far less frequent than are the climbs, bends, flats, and just flat out seated pedaling. For everything but descending; suspension is scavenging power from every pedal stroke and robbing speed/efficiency.