All Things Bikes and Tacos! (...and every vehicle imaginable)

Usually the soles are much stiffer so they stay flat and against the pedals. The soles tend to be grippier as well.

 

MYBAD

Typical MTB shoes have a flatter sole, similar to a skate board shoe, whereas the Nike will be designed to run and form to the foot. MTB Shoes also have a sturdier sole than Nikes.

 

gotcha, thanks everyone

 

Definitely don't use tennis shoes on flat pedals. You will blow out your tennis shoes very quickly and worse have much worse traction

A happy medium I would recommend are indoor soccer style shoes. I still wear older Adidas Samba shoes when I ride flats because the sole is very similar to any MTB-specific flat pedal shoe and they are super tough

 

My Vans are very grippy too. BUT they are really flexy so when you put the hammer down, they don't do it for me. Good flow trail shoes though!

 

I have a set of 5.10 impact low in size 11US if that's your size and you wanna try 'em. I mostly wear clipless Shimano SPD and keep a pair of flat shoes for some spare pedals or if a friend from out of town comes in and wants to ride but doesn't do clipless.

I thought they killed the Samba? Did it make a comeback?

Like @Gunshot-6A I've long been a Vans junkie. There was once a time where I thought I was a skater; I was sorely (pun intended) mistaken.

 

5.10 freeriders for riding shoes and vans for riding street / townie duty.

 

That actually is my size lol.

 

So much of riding fast safely is confidence. Both in your skills and your equipment. If you can't trust your bike to perform (out-riding your equipment) it is probably worth it to upgrade.

Bike fit and geometry is a big deal. It's too bad so many entry level mountain bikes are still using road bike geometry.

 

Okay so maybe you're done, but, I didn't get my say. Mountain bike specific shoes, especially if you are not "clipping in" are such a huge upgrade. To say they are "stickier" is the understatement of the century. They are so absolutely better than regular shoes at having your foot not fall off the pedal in the rough stuff. I say the first time your foot flies off the pedal and you "almost die", it's time for mountain bike specific shoes.

Also, others in the thread may "laugh at the guys in bike shorts" and I used to be that guy. I never ever worse bicycle specific clothing. I claimed I had hard earned sit bones and that my tough butt could see me through any trail. Brother, let me tell you, I was wrong. I was oh so wrong. After a helmet and gloves, mountain bike shorts are the very next crucial upgrade.

Oh, and as for your original question, a better bike will absolutely make biking more fun and enjoyable. I'm surprised nobody mentioned demoing. Many shops and bike brands will let you pay a small fee to take a bike out for a day or two. Usually around 30-80 dollars. Go demo some mid-tier bikes and top tier bikes. It will be obvious (or not, in which case keep what you have!)

 

Thank you! More input is always welcome and those are great suggestions. I have bike "underwear" as I call it that I wear under gym shorts and it has a pad to protect my precious jewels but I didnt know if specific bike shorts would make a difference. I'll be looking into a lot of different stuff here soon.

 

Just turned 50 and have no plans of stopping. I credit riding for keeping me in shape the past 25 years. You can ride for as long as you want but I just recently gave up downhill because I just can’t keep up with the young whipper snappers and it takes me longer to get up after a crash

 

I wear Vans SK8-HI REISSUE UC. Tons of grip.

https://www.vans.com/shop/shoes-cla...e-makers-sk8-hi-reissue-uc-black-black#hero=6

 

And I agree. There is also a difference in expected/intended use.

Cant speak for the Aggressor, but, I know my Marlin really wasnt worth any upgrades... just wouldnt have been prudent..

Kind of a catch 22......

But, comfort/confidence is key as mentioned

I caved in and snagged some liners... i prefer pants(poison ivy is a major problem for me), but, also have shorts.

And I have a set of 510s... huge upgrade over what i was using. Dont think i will ever be comfortable with anything other than flats. "Sticky" as hell. And firmer for better power transmission.

Just my 2 pennies plus inflation...

Honestly, anything that makes the experience better for you, is an upgrade, and worth it.

 

That’s exactly what I was looking for. But luckily, today I found someone on Facebook giving away a kuat 3 bike rack for FREE and I snagged it up, so that handles my issue.

 

Yep! It's the Gully trail on the Freeride side of Big Creek. Fun stuff!

 

FiveTen Freeride Pros all day err'day

 

As @Chasespeed mentioned, poison ivy is the pits. One more friendly piece of advice, when you ride, if near poison ivy, the sooner you can rinse off, use blue dawn. It’ll help remove the oils and reduce the outbreak. Poison Ivy with tick bites is this worlds version of Hell.

 

Can’t beat free. Nice work. I do keep a Thule T2 hitch mount for the kids’ bikes when we go on family camping trips but there hasn’t been room for all of them, until now that I can put mine and the wife’s bikes on the outboard.

 

My turn to provide my opinion (which is actually fact!).

Upgrades/components:
I have found that it isn’t going from 3x8 to 1x10 which will make the difference. It is going from an entry level group to something which performs “better”. By better I mean quicker and more reliable shifting, braking with less effort, easier accellerations due to lighter rims, or hubs which roll smoother and are more durable. A specific example is upgrading my cross bike from the low / mid range Shimano Tiagra/Sora to 105/Ultregra/Dura-Ace. I found the brifters to be more comfortable and have more noticable shift points, the derailleurs wouldn’t hesitate to shift and would engage more quickly, the custom built wheels had me moving from 0 - 20 easier, and finally the Ultegra hubs went more than one season of bike commuting without significant maintenance. And none of that was with components designed or built in the last ... 5 - 7 years. I tend to “dumpster dive” at a local bike co-op/non-profit. Recently I found a sweet pair of XT disc hubs for $30 and paired those with custom colored Velocity Dyads. That was perfect for my wife and will last her likely her entire life.

There will be some retorts that Tiagra/Sora today = Ultegra/105 from last or the last few generations. True. But the cost for used high end gear tends to cost less than new. And I have the luxury of having access to great, cheap used gear.

Regarding bikes in general, I have a few I take off road. So far, one is a “new to me” single speed but it is low end and heavy with entry level components. It’s OK as I have the experience to notice where it limits me. I also take my cross on some entry level single track. It has 700 x 45 tires which I enjoy more than the new single speed. My “real” mountain bike is actually from 2001. At one point it was a 26” SS, and in that config took me to my happy place many times. It’s still fun, but I am doing some serious consideration of a 27.5 plus.

Pedals/Shoes:
Personal. Just like saddles and boxers vs. briefs. I loathe SPD. I hear the new version (and by new I think this change happened 5+ years ago) is better but I am still reticent to try it. I was an Eggbeater fan for many years then the quality of the pedals went south. Now I use Time ATACs across all bikes. As for shoes, clipless for everything, even “urban” riding. I have tried grippy flats on peggy pedals. My wife likes that config, I do not. I would not, could not, on a bike, or on a trike. No flats for me, Sam I Am. Again, it is a personal decision. As for shoes in general, cycling shoes should have a stiff sole, as mentioned, for “power transfer”. That makes it great when on the bike but weird when walking.

If it isn’t obvious, I used to ride a lot. Now, not as much as I work from home. Prior I had a 9 mile commute, each way, so that offered many opportunities to try different configs. And, products tend to wear out when ridden year round in Seattle weather, so I was constantly trying to shoes/pedals/chains/gloves/tires/etc. No idea what the mid west winters do to riding gear and compenents, that must be insane.

All of the above said, my recommendation is to ride. Try to determine specific situations where you feel <cough> “inadequate” <cough>. Put words to those situations (easier said than done). Are rock gardens and baby heads intimidating? Why? Do log crossings over a certain height cause you to dab all the time? Are there climbs which are too steep AND have technical challenges? All of those tend to be caused by a mix of skill, fitness level, and bike choice. Sometimes, you need to lose a few pounds before you lose a few ounces on the bike. Or, you need to run tubeless and a lower PSI to clear those loose, gravelly, steep climbs. Or those baby heads require more momentum and control, and better balance. Ultimately, the answer to your question is the eternal, ubiquitious, and frustrating “it depends”.

I sincerely hope all that rambling helped. Also, there are many words of wisdom already presented, as you recognized. I hope the message of “go ride, have fun, and if you get attitude from anyone tell them to FO” was not lost in all the conversation.

P.S. If you really want to see heated conversations, ask about tires, frame material, or saddles. But warn me first so I can stock up on popcorn.