TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

Want to take advantage of Speedhut's ongoing (15% off) sale to add Boost and AFR gauges. Really like the ones @loginfailed designed, but want to stick with only two gauges (in a Lotek Dual A-Pillar Pod), rather than three. With that in mind, wondering...
- Is a single AFR gauge sufficient?
- Which wideband O2 sensor is the "right" one?
- What's the optimal location for the O2 sensor?

 

My speedhut gauges came with a Bosch sensor but I picked up a spare Denso as a backup since the Bosch seem prone to issues.
I have a single gauge w/ sensor currently mounted in the passenger bank on my urd ypipe, but will have it in the merge on my JFR y-pipe.

IMO a single gauge/sensor is sufficient but more ideal if its in the merge to get readings from all cylinders. In the URD ypipe, you're only reading 3 cylinders, so the gauge would never tell you if the driver side cylinders have a lean condition.

 

which denso sensor did you get? I think i saw a post on this a while back, can't seem to remember the right one. I have a Bosch that came with my speed hut gauges I'm installing right now, thinking of the future when this one fails.

 

Assuming you guys went with something like this? Any compatibility/accuracy issues switching gauge/controller designed for Bosch sensor to Denso sensor, when the time comes?

 

There is a link at on the first page of this thread with compatible sensors. I went with Denso 234-5116. I haven't installed it yet but AFAIK the only difference is longer wiring.

Here's the link: https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/bosch-lsu-4-9-pn-cross-reference-and-compatibility.501754/

 

Yeah I went with an analogue gauge just like that, but it would be nice to have analogue and digital readings on one gauge.

 

@Norton, Not sure if it'll make a difference if Bosch vs Denso. I just went with this speed hut gauge because I'm a shameless copycat of @loginfailed. gotta get to drilling holes on my exhaust now.

 

I've got almost a year out of my Bosch sensors, no problems. I will go denso when replaced .

 

Longer wires can always be restrained. That's my preference fwiw.

 

I don’t have the AFR gauge anymore since I swapped it for the Innovate DLG-1. I still have the Speedhut boost and fuel pressure gauges, though. The DLG1 looks pretty at home nestled in between them.

 

All this talk about spark bolts a couple pages back made me research the plugs I put in. I think I might swap them out for the 7787's. I put in the NGK 2309. Heat range 7 with a .032 gap. What you say?

 

One is completely adequate. I’m just a nerd, so I have two. Opinions vary on whose is the best. Innovate ones have worked fine for me, you just have to keep them from getting too hot. If I was going single, I’d put it the y-pipe. Probably after the merge so that it is reading both banks.

 

So the DLG-1 must be a much better guage than the MTX I had. Are you running the bosch sensors that came with it? I tried a Denso sensor with the MTX and they did not play well together. So I just bought the AEM. Bosch sensor lasted a couple months and now the Denso sensor is acting up. Keeps running through the heat up cycle. Then when it finally does do something, it goes to 4 dashes.

 

I’m on my second set of sensors. My first set lasted a year or so. I think the problem I was having was due to them getting too hot. Innovate recommends at least 24” from the head. Mine are more like 18”. Plus there are no cats. So on a WOT run, the sensors are probably seeing some serious heat.

I bought the replacements from Summit. Innovate #3888. This time I installed the Innovate heat sink extenders to get the sensor out of the direct line of fire.

 

I went with 2309. What’s pushing you to swap them out? I would just wait 30K and swap then. I seriously doubt it makes much of a difference.

 

So with one sensor, only reading 3 cylinders, the failure point would be where on the other 3 that a single AFR wouldn't pick up? The injectors? The DLG1 or drilling a hole farther down the pipe being the solution I see...

 

The fact that the 2309's are gapped at .032 and a step colder. Where the 7787's are the correct hest range and gapped at .044. Seeing as I am only running a 2.85 pulley and at my elevation and only getting 4lbs of boost there is no need to be that cold on the plugs. Plus the extra tight gap I am sure I am not getting a complete burn and that might be why I get such horrible gas mileage. Or part of the reason. Lol.

 

Your current plugs are drawing away more heat from the combustion chambers and the narrower gap is also not providing you as complete a burn as you may be after.

Me personally I threw in the 7787's and called it a day. No gapping or nothing. They are suffice gap for me and they are right at what the

$9 IKH22 Iridium Power Spark Plug, (Pack of 1)

IKH22's equivalent heat range is so I'm happy. I prefer the cheaper coppers and shorter change intervals over the higher priced, ungappable, and not as conductive iridiums.

 

-Single gauge will be more than sufficient

-I prefer Denso over Bosch. Bosch has an absolutely horrid track record on building garbage quality sensors. There is a reason why the shop I am at refuses to use a Bosch sensor on any car these days.

- Optimal location if you want a readout of both banks combined will be just after the Y pipe merge.

If you want maximum to the T accuracy it would have to be at the manifolds merge prior to the cat, but that gets complicated, expensive, and time consuming to install.

In my post regarding Denso cross references I posted a follow up post regarding which sensor I used. The wiring excess was minimal and tucked away just beautifully at the undercarriage.

 

Yeah makes sense. I guess I keep talking myself into how the stock supercharger plugs are gapped for 0.032” and should be fine. Plus I know I’ll be back in there after 30k anyways like other man have said so why not just wait lol.