BAMF no drill bolt on sliders

Any of them should work.

 

@Shmellmopwho 's slider adapter works just fine.

 

Awesome. Thanks for the feedback

 

I am having a hard time selecting between 10 or 20 degree sliders. Which are more popular and look better?

I am having a hard time finding pictures showing both of them.

 

If you wheel 20 of you want steps 10. 95% of our orders are 20 degree sliders with a kick

 

20 degrees if you wheel and want more clearance, 10 degrees if you mall crawl and want a better step. I vote 20 degrees.

Edit: Dammit Jerry beat me

 

i agree.

 

I definitely wheel. 20 degree it is.

Also with 20 degree, is there enough clearance when opening the door and and the slider? I had a buddy that hit a rock with his slider from a different manufacture, the slider slightly shifted upward and the bottom of the rear door when opened was rubbing the slider. Just want to avoid this.

 

The closest point would be the rear door and the kick out. There is just under one inch clear they would have to be bent pretty bad to make it to where the door wouldn't open.

 

I don't see these suckers shifting much if at all even on the hardest drops.

I've seen a lot of sliders on the market up close and personal and BAMF is in my humble opinion the absolute strongest there is.

 

Awesome it is good to know. Last thing I want is rubbing on the bottom of the doors near kickout on a hard drop.

If I order is it possible to do a 50% deposit and when I pick them up pay for the remaining balance? Not sure if this is an option.

 

It is not an option we don't do deposits on orders.

 

DCLB Sliders are on. I had everything powder coated locally and finally had time to install them. Install wasn’t bad, even though I did it solo with jack stands and a floor jack. 3 hours bell to bell including fluid filming the shit out of the interface between the frame and the sliders. The big Pelfrey plates I was sent for the 2 holes in the frame were awesome, made those 2 bolts super easy to install. @JLee I’d think about “borrowing” that large plate design for the front 2 holes in the box frame section. I had all the nut plates powder coated as well and it worked great. Ran a tap through all the holes first and everything threaded in by hand with minimal suffering.

Only other tricky holes were the furthest 2 back that are inside the slider support and one is next to the fuel tank. Even those weren’t too bad with the right combo of sockets and ratcheting box wrenches. Every other hole lined up perfectly. I planned for the worst but was pleasantly surprised at the install. Sliders are bad ass and now I need to build the rest of my truck to match the capability of the sliders.

 

I'm a few weeks in (so a long way to go) on my order. 2017 OR DCSB, 20 degrees, no kickout, powdercoated plus 3-piece full-length skid plates and a rear-diff skid plate. I'm beyond stoked!!

 

Just curious why not lockout?

Going to place my order in soon.

 

Thanks for the feed back glad you like them. As for those large nut plates we won't me making those they have more cons then pros. The only pro they provide is an easy way to put the bolts in.
They weigh 7lbs more then ours they will cost more to make, pack & store forcing us to raise prices on sliders.

 

No Kicks will be removed from our options very soon as we sell over a 30 to 1 kick to no kick so if you want that option i would get a order in soon because they wont be offered after this month.

 

Those plates were definitely portly. Guess it’s pretty clear why you’re in the metal fab biz and I’m not.

 

Suddenly, it sounds like I'm shooting myself in the foot. If I'm being honest with myself, I'm losing functionality, while hindering production, all just to chase an aesthetic. Too late to change my mind? I'll pony up and pay for kickouts.

 

Drill what? Sliders are "no drill" and skid plates are already installed. The support bracket for the skid might be in the way. Are you saying to cut the aliser plate to fit the skid plate support arm?