Super Ultimate 3rd Brake Light Build

I dropped the rear portion of the headliner. It's simple. Not sure what the fuss is about. Just take your time and dont pull so hard that you create it.

Negative there is no female pigtail

Correct

These are crimped too but I solder the crimp also for added strength.

18 was the smallest I had. I'm sure 20 would be fine.

 

You need 3 pin... you have bed lights, stop, and ground wires to account for.

 

I'm not one for color matching, but that looks BITCHIN!

It's pretty obvious of the size change. Here is a better comparison pic, and a few measurements. I don't think any vendors should be selling or shipping the old style since they have been phased out.

First post, I list GROUND, BRAKE, and CAB light wire colors

Not yet. I am thinking I will have to make my own mold for this connector because it doesn't seem like it's even an available part. The other side is "molded" in to the stock brake light housing so it's not like it can be removed or sourced.

Now THATS what I call bed light!!!

This is the easiest, and cleanest way. Make sure you cut the stock connector ~4-5" back so you could always re connect if needed.

 

Thanks man

 

I sourced the part number for the OEM 2nd gen connector but I’m going to opt for a new connector that utilizes the same pins as stock so I can depin it and just plug it into a new connector, with a corresponding male end for the KC cyclones. Wired like so:

2 hot to 1 pin for 2xbrake lights
2 ground to 1 pin for 2xbrake lights
2 hot to 1 pin for 2xWhite lights
2 hot to 1 pin for 2xWhite lights

For a total of a 4 pin connector.

FWIW the 2nd gen utilizes a Toyota 1.3 pin which is also an equivalent manufacturer Sumitomo TS series 050 pin for its connector. Can’t help the third gen guys though. May or may not be the same. For 3rd gen AC it’s probably the same. I’ll pull up the part numbers I have later when I get a chance to reference my bookmarks.

Edit: also for 2nd gens we run 194 bulbs for brake light and there are 3 which are roughly

 

Okay so to clarify, I have the part number for the 2nd gen female connector (90980-11436) which is essentially worthless cause why would you want a new 2 pin connector? And I don’t have the number for the male connector, but that does NOT matter as for 2nd gens you just reuse the one on the stock brake light if you really want to go that route.

If you have no idea how to crimp terminals or just want pre-crimped terminals straight from Toyota with like a 12” length of wire, the part number for the female terminals is 82998-12420 (prob expensive). I wouldn’t go this route. And I have no idea if those pins work for a 3rd gen.

My opinion is get a new connector altogether, which is what I’ve written below.

I plan to buy for the 2nd gen KC 4 light setup the following items:

1x Male connector, with terminals and seals: https://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/product_info.php/products_id/4190

1x Female connector, with terminals and seals:
https://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/product_info.php/products_id/4152

And then some additional pins as well because I never like having the exact number of pins in case I fuck up a crimp.

Now for those who don’t have an appropriate crimper (I just use a universal terminal crimper off Amazon that does an acceptable job) then you can also buy the same parts above as a full pigtail with pre-crimped wires that you then butt connector or preferably solder to your KC wire leads and/or stock harness like this link:

https://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/product_info.php/products_id/4153

As said in my previous post, I plan to de-pin the stock female connector that exits the headliner and plug those wires into the Sumitomo 4 pin female connector. They “should be compatible” by cross referencing. If they aren’t then that’s why I’m buying extra pins. I am not reusing the original brake light connector.

I also have a switch panel so I’m running the power for my white LED cyclones to the engine bay to tie into that and am probably going to just run ground to nearest body ground (probably a rear seat bracket bolt or something).

I’ll post pics of all this crap when I do order this stuff, and get it installed after brake light ships/arrives.

 

I am not sure this is a fair comparison. Looks like you are comparing a rock like to a dome light. These are different products. The rock lights will not have the button on them.

 

The Baja dome and rock light share the same metal housings,(just one has a button) the point was to show the size difference to the old models.

 

I don't have a 2nd gen Taco, nor am I experience in re-wiring anything, but your method sounds alittle complex.

 

Any pics from the rear view angle of the lights in the housing installed? How did you wire them up? @JdevTac has posted his way of wiring how he’s going to wire his up but I would like more options on how to wire them.

Those bed lights are super bright.

 

It’s not as hard as it sounds, ignore my wall of text.

All I’m doing is taking the pins out the existing harness that plugs into the light, sliding them back into the new female plug I’m buying, and then crimping pins to the KC wires, and putting those in the male connector.

 

Maybe providing picture during the process would make it seem less daunting. Only if you wouldn’t mind.

 

I can put together a short DIY.

 

If anyone decides they don’t want to tackle the job, I am interested in a 5BD or a 5KC. I missed out on the 5 minute sale! PM me if you want to sell.
@mesojdm, if you have an old 5 light setup that you want to sell, I’ll buy it.

 

Ok, sounds good.

I'm thinking of using this(see picture below), but want to see if there is a better way.

 

That would work too. It’s all up to the end user. The connectors with pre-crimped pigtails will require cutting your old connector off and crimping or soldering to the existing wires.

I think better is relative. I’m very particular about my wiring and prefer to utilize existing pins or crimp pins on myself. It also allows me to use whatever wire I want. Most if not all the China connectors utilize Copper coated aluminum or straight aluminum wire, which for the low amp application that are the KC cyclones or Baja lights is fine and inconsequential, but aluminum wire doesn’t support as much amperage. That sort of thing is more important for running bigger amp draw accessories.

 

Thanks I appreciate it.

 

I'm assuming the 70mm model is the old version?