BUYER BEWARE: 3rd Gen Plug-N-Play Tailgate Bolt-N-Lock & Tailgate Bolt-N-Open

Trying to find my Actuator on Amazon and ran into that....

 

Thanks Katie for the kit and thank you @itsnotatoy for the inspiration.

I remove my tailgate often while working. I needed a quick disconnect for the actuator which I located just



offset from the camera connector under the truck.

I also routed the tailgate actuator harness through the double loom camera harness into the tailgate.

 

That looks great!!! I love those connectors. I use them for all my Baja Design Lights on my Truck and underneath my truck for easy disconnects. I even have them for my SwitchPro Connections.

 

You're overthinking this.
There is no reason to change what your selling unless you're making it so people don't have to bend a rod and drill a hole??

 

Oh I'm not making any changes. I just saw it while searching the web so thought I would share. Do not worry. I'm fine with drilling the two holes

 

If we ever decide to remove the set up do the two drilled holes effect the function of the actuator? Aka can we go back to stock easily? That’s the only reason I’d care at all.. It’s not like you can see them normally

 

So I may have missed it but I cannot find it. Can someone explain to me what the gold bar with the slots in it is for? I’m probably missing something lol. Thanks

 

nothing from what i can see... i think it just comes with the actuator.

Katie - got the actuator installed.. bullet connectors on the wire all came off so i will replace them and install the harness next week - kit looks great otherwise!

 

One bullet connector came off at the actuator on mine also(it happens), so I had to remove the actuator, then reinstall it.

If you don’t have small hands, when installing the kit, it would be easier to connect the wires to the actuator first, then attach the actuator to the tailgate as the room to work in there is kind of tight.

I didn’t have extra bullet connectors so I just replaced them both with some flat connectors I had in the garage, soldered them on and then used some shrink wrap over the entire connection and it was good to go.

I also soldered on an additional foot of wire as I figured it would be easier to remove and reinstall an actuator if it ever needed replacement.

Oops.

It’s not what you might think at first glance.
Just a little cushion.

 

Ok thanks. I’ll find something to do with it haha

 

I’m thinking about adding something like this too. Would a rubber mat like this be durable enough to hold the movements of the actuator over time?

 

What I did was adding some nylon spacers and longer screws. Sounds good.

 

Both bullet connectors pulled off mine. Used butt connectors w heat shrink. I used square tubing as a spacer and dynamatt underneath the actuator as well as a few pieces on the tailgate skin. Dremeled the stock connectors to accept the new actuator wires. Also silver soldered and eyelet and slipped it over the lock dowel. The idea of drilling a hole in plastic, in Arizona didn't sit well with me. Harness was perfect length.

 

Love the ring idea, seems that this would be a much better way to attach to the action lever. Would love to see dimensions for the bending the rod.

 

So I’ve had that mat for over 15 years now. I used longer screws and it is solid. I have no doubt it will hold still with the actuator.

 

Hello Katie,
Received my kit this afternoon all connections were solid, length of wire was good on a DCLB and instructions were easy to follow. All went smooth. Great kit thank you!!!

 

Got the kit today thanks KTJO 4x4!

 

Had a great time installing mine today!

Put a little rubber Matt between actuator and metal, but may want to go back in and add more later, I like the silicone idea as well!

Great kit and directions, thanks Katie!

 

Unfortunately I don't have dimensions for the rod. I just kind of eye balled it.

I started at the actuator end and worked my way back to the loop end. I could then mark the rod where it met the lock. I put the loop next to the mark so I could see where to cut it and allow some space for the loop. It's pretty simple, just take your time and make the bends slowly. As you can see in the red circled area I had to adjust the rod a little after it was bent; that's why it is not perfectly straight. It shows where I bent it a little to fit. So there is a small amount of adjustment (up and down and front to back) if needed after its made.

 

i forgot to take pictures of my rod connection at the lock but my rod was straight and did not need the bend like in your pix.......it may be a result of the ½" of foam.....but it sure made things easier....i just have one bend in the rod....it is where the rod goes into the black plastic on the handle.....remember my hole had a slight curve which was needed as a result of the slight radius when the arm moves when the actuator is operated.....there is no stress on the rod or the actuator.....and the rod moves freely in the slot/hole......there is a lot of force exerted on the rod when there is such a big bend or multiple bends....i think this may cause extra labor for the actuator and premature failure