Coolant in the Intake Manifold

Yessir, they can leak internally and external. I suggest with several 5VZFE builds I’ve done those gaskets are trouble. You’ll be all good with a new set and not to spend your moola but while you’re in there replace the knock sensor and it’s harness too. Like others said please trust us and use toyota form in place gasket fipg glue/silicone to secure a better seal on the water pipe in the engines V.

 

It's all straight forward enough, but it'll feel like you're digging pretty deep if you've never done something like this. My recommendation would be to find a friend/forum member who's got the space/tools/know-how to help you out. If you're close to the 4Corners, I'd be willing to give you a hand.

Here's a pic of mine after removing about 20oz of sludgy coolant. Now I remember the knock sensor pigtail turned to dust when I touched it, so I wasn't far off from throwing a CEL and was glad to have replaced it.

 

Check the backside of the engine/top of the trans bell housing. The coolant pipe will leak, fill up the valley of the engine, and then drip out the back of the engine. I'm having this exact issue right now with my truck; coolant by-pass pipe is leaking and coolant is dripping down the engine and onto the driver's side of the bell housing.

 

Pretty much exactly my symptom.

 

Not to hijack this thread, but any chance you might be able to give me hand replacing the bypass pipe since I'm local?

 

PM inbound. We'll getcha sorted.

 

and do you have any idea on how to re-fipg that tube that everyone was taking about?

 

Sure. I just sucked out the old coolant with a shop vac. I removed the bypass pipe then cleaned the mating surfaces on the pipe and the block of the old sealant with a brass brush and plastic gasket scraper. Then suck out the the all the old FIPG remnants, hit the mating surfaces with some acetone and squirt a nice new bead of FIPG on the pipe. Reinstall it with the bolts and finger tighten them, wait a few minutes for the FIPG to set a bit then torque them to spec. Reinstall everything in reverse order of removal.

 

This is potentially more important than it might seem. If you fail to empty that pipe, you may find it draining onto your work area, if you move it just so as you're setting the new sealant... (Not that I would know, cough, cough!)