Anything welding

X2

 

Yup, agreed. Just make sure you keep a pretty tight arc, 7018 doesn't like long arcing too much...can also introduce porosity.

X2 if you don't watch your puddle, you'll never make good welds. It tells you everything. Don't let it get too big on 3G though, as gravity likes to pull it down.

 

Any concern with running a 6011 root and using a 6013 cap? I plan on welding some 1/4" to my frame eventually, and I feel like the 6011 will give me a better bite but since my 6011 beads look like shit I'd like to go over it with 6013. Haven't played with the 70's yet, really want to master the 60's first.

 

I mean you could, but 6013 is low penetration. 7018 is litterally one of the easiest (imo) to run. Pick some up and try it. 3G (uphill) is hard, but it's more flexible and stronger than 60xx rods. It will bend and retain strength, whereas 6011 is more brittle. Plus as long as your 6011 is burned in good, you'll be fine. Doesn't have to necessarily be pretty to be strong.

 

I mean the 6013 cap would literally be for looks. I know I shouldn't care what it looks like but I do. So you are saying for this application ignore both 60's all together and just run 1/8" 7018 so I can run it once and not need to do double work? I just already have the 60's on hand and it's what I've been learning but I'm down to try the 70's if it's better for the application.

 

If you're welding to frame, I'd used 7018. Stronger and more flexible, when frame flexes weld wont break. What are you welding, you might only need a pass or 2 of 7018? Post a pic of what you're gonna be welding.

 

Don't have it ready yet, but basically I am fixing an issue I have had with my 4x bumper since I bought it. The mounting holes have a lot of space in them, that allow for adjustment and bumper placement:



I am welding 1/4" L's onto the frame to keep the adjustment exactly where I want it. Mostly because after every hard hit to the rear bumper it pushes the bumper up and forward making me unable to open my tail gate until I jump on the bumper and move it back to where it was again. The only other option is to drill through the 3/8" steel on the bumper and through the frame to make an additional bolt hole. I figure making these weld on stoppers is an easier solution and lets me practice more.

 

Oh, well for just some stops you could use anything you want really. No need to run multipass with only 1/4" material. I'd likely use 3/32" 7018, but you could easily use 6011 downhill and get a pretty bead.

 

You overestimate my very new welding skills. I'll grab some 7018.

 

A few random xrays, spool pieces and sch80 chill water stick.



Sch10 root


7018 cap



Inside reactor repairing cracked coil. Breathing air hood

 

Hell yea. I’m practicing my stainless stick on pipe currently. Bottom is ugly. Top is perfect.


Trying to figure out what I’m doing wrong as I’m going around the pipe lol like rod angle or speed or idk. Something is changing.

 

I know I've asked it here before, but how critical is it to store 7018 in a rod oven for a hobbiest? Seems like most people DGAF when it comes to this rod for our applications aside from maybe a weather proof container. This is one of the only things that have kept me from purchasing 7018's to begin with.

 

7018 will go bad if it sits out in humidity for a while, so I just buy as much as I need generally. If you keep it in a sealed package they will last longer. Also if you have an AC only machine make sure you get 7018 rated for AC.

I highly recommend grabbing a chunk of plate 6"x6" or so, at least 1/4-3/8" or thicker. Then just start running beads. Learn how to stack them, how to keep them straight, etc. weldingtipsandtricks is a great resource online. The more you practice, the best you'll get.

 

To be Young again with all the new high tech goodies

The JLG lifts of all kinds make it so much easier

 

Now for code work it needs to be in a oven.

I have found hitting it with the oxy-fuel torch takes most of the moisture out .

I picked up a few Toaster Ovens over the years depending I pop 2 or 3 pounds and heat while I do the layout cutting drilling etc

Any of the Low hydrogen rods run much better when they are dry.

They run poor when damp till the heat of welding drys them out .

might be why people complain they are hard to weld

Just talking about the 7018 AC the regular don`t work very well on AC

 

Are you comfortable when welding the bottom ??

Able to see the poodle from your position ?? Causing you to be distracted by the women holding the poodle.

comfort and being able to see

Arms getting tired to fast ??

 

That’s kinda why I was asking about the 60’s cause it’s what I have been practicing with and getting good at. Was trying to master that before I went to 70’s.

I was wondering if a cheap toaster oven would work well for this.

 

For a hobbiest , most people just store them in an outdoor fridge and seal them up the best they can.

It only becomes a big deal when you get into serious stuff.

If I was building a redneck one then I’d get a fridge and put a heat lamp in it of some sort.

 

ALSO FUCK STAINLESS STEEL STICK 6G lol. 1/8” 316. Trying to get used to travel speed and angle and all that. A lot tricker than 70. Hard to watch the puddle cause it freezes so quick.

 

Tried 3/32 7018 @ 90 amps
Slight push uphill. Flattened the bead out nice. Thanks for the tips.