Wyoming B.S. Thread

you state side yet? Fun time?

 

There seems to be a reoccurring theme here. You may recall last December when I discovered the driver side front axle seal leaking out of the blue. Afterall, we had been back from our adventures for over a month but it seemed like some of the things I did with the truck were coming back to haunt it.

Here is what the seal looked like when I pulled the axle:



Fast forward to yesterday when I finally got the staked nut off the companion flange on the front output shaft on the t-case. Here is what that seal looked like when I removed the flange:




Looks familiar doesn't it. to muddy water crossings.

 

I'm 99% sure it's not rubbing on the dust shield. I know that sound (had it on the Taco). But, I'll poke around and see if there's something else it's contacting. Hope that's it, because it'd be an easy fix.

+1 on that.

What was your final method for the stake nut?

 

Haha, just hold down the button on the impact for longer than I was comfortable with. 5 second bursts wasn't cutting it. I would guess it took a good 20 seconds continuous to finally break it loose.

 

@Speedytech7 Have you ever seen this before?




Apparently there is a small bushing/seal on the inside of the companion flange. This is debris from it coming apart. It was dry tho, so no oil passing thru there.



I didn't even know it was there. The last time I did this job, there was not this mess so no indicator it was even there. The FSM says its a single use item which I don't have ATM

 

Is supposed to seal the leakage path through the splines. It wouldn't leak a whole lot anyway after the nut is on. Maybe have one ready in hand though just in case. Pretty sure mine was dry too, and shredded. It doesn't leak to my knowledge.

 

So the shredding is normal? Good to know but that's surprising. Kind of a 'right of passage'

I guess Ill call Toyota of Renton tomorrow to see if they have one. Thanks for the feedback.

 

That’s a helluva broad brush you’re painting with.

 

Guess what, it was the dust shield.

Though, not where I'd expected. It was actually the part of the dust shield that goes "inside" the rotor, which was rubbing on this one rotor and not on the others (and they must be different on the Taco, b/c never rubbed on either of those).

So anyway, I'll just go over in the corner and eat my 99% now. Glad I didn't put any more 9's on there...

Thanks @m3bassman and @Digiratus

 

I grew up on the front range, California is going to destroy Colorado. Don’t really feel like that’s an opinion anymore, just a very depressing fact.

 

Good to hear you were able to figure it out.

 

That picture is amazing, +1

 

Good things in Colorado? You mean the airport? That's more of an occasional necessity, not really a good thing. I can't think of anything else.

 

It's not the line, it's the banjo bolt.

You could also drill a larger hole in the OEM bolt, but might as well get the better lines and not have to drill into important braking components.

 

Two reasons:

1. The OEM Tacoma brake lines have a little hook on the end of the banjo bolt that indexes into the caliper. Easy solution for this - cut off the hook.
2. The OEM banjo bolt is longer than the Wheelers banjo bolt, and so is too long to fit into the Tundra caliper. You could drill out the Tacoma banjo bolt (some do), but that seems error prone to me, and I want no errors with my brakes - you were super lucky to catch yours when/how you did. I don't want that happening to me on the highway, or going around some downhill ledge curve somewhere.


Edit: should have just +1'd Brett on #2.

 

Ben, you probably could just try to swap the banjo bolts out and reuse your tired old rubber brake lines knowing that you are giving up braking power by using the old rubber. I am not recommending this, but it seems like an option you have. @m3bassman

 

You've already heard it but Tundras used a hardline that ended in the caliper so to make this ghetto upgrade work you basically have to have a banjo that is just barely longer than a hardline end. The calipers weren't designed to use a banjo bolt setup, you could buy the little tundra hardlines and hoses, that's also an option.

 

Here’s my uselessful advise to you

 

I answered the question you failed to ask correctly.

 

@m3bassman - I'm curious why you don't want to use the Wheelers lines. Did I miss something in the saga?