PCV Valve Replacement

Replace the grommet and molded hose also. Usually these rubber grommets turn to toast. 15 minute job. Use pliers to make a hook on piece of wire. It will help you keep the pieces out.

 

Just a 1st Gen PCV valve 'old grommet removal' tip:
Short version: lube with STP and cut the grommet wall before removing
Longer version:
After reading the prior warnings & caveats I pulled my old one out like this: found some old STP oil treatment, used a Q-tip and lubed the heck out of the PCV valve and spun it till the contact surface between it and the grommet was slick. I then popped it out easily. I then used a flat head screwdriver to gently lift the top flat part of the grommet and lubed underneath it with the STP until I could spin the grommet freely. Then I used a small kitchen knife (shhh!) inserted it into the grommet and cut the wall of it all the way through. I then took some needle nosed pliers and worked one side down between the metal hole and the outside wall of the grommet, and the other side down in the center hole of the grommet. I then closed the pliers firmly and twisted, curling the cut edge of the grommet into the center of the grommet hole. Then the grommet can be lifted out easily in one piece. Much simpler than my explanation.

 

Dunno, mine had 200k on it, I just yanked it out.

 

So what's the difference between

$19 12204-62010 PCV Valve Sub-Assembly

12204-62010 vs 12204-62030? The second PCV valve part number is listed for only the 2004 model year on Conicelli Toyota and some other part sites.

 

I'll be changing my PCV valve this weekend.

 

On your 07?

 

My truck has almost 220k and i think its the factory pcv. I cleaned it and it still rattles. Its just a check valve for venting the crankcase pressure. An engine is just a big air pump and needs a away to vent excess pressure that can build up.

 

Just replaced mine today. I jerked the whole thing out at once because the grommet was hard as a rock after 310k miles. The bottom half of my grommet broke off and fell through but it was easily retrievable with some needle nose pliers, luckily.

 

Here's my take on the issue:

- It's not a critical part. It's a check valve that might spew oil mist if you leave it off.
- Grab any old one from autozone and throw it in. It'll probably fit loosely whereas the OEM will fit tightly
- You can route the hose wherever you want if you don't want oil in the intake. Catch cans just catch the oil mist and contain it nicely so the tube isn't flappin in the breeze. If you do this, make sure to plug the intake side... unless you don't care about sucking in potentially dirty air through it and don't care that the MAF doesn't see the air.

- If you break the old one, just fish the pieces out with a pick and/or tweezers.

 

Damn I love this forum!
Loads of information and cautionary tips on simple repairs!

Keep it up “the internet”

 

Changed mine with plugs last week. Old one had a little rattle but nothing like the new one. Here's the old one:

 

I did not read the whole thread .

I had more problems with the grommets getting brittle and cracking as well as the hose.

So while the grommet was replaced I did the PCV as well

 

I've never had issues with the metal PCV's and always clean them when replacing the grommets. You're right about it being the main issue. The grommet and hose dry and crack more than the PCV failing.

 

That's prolly the more accurate way this repair usually goes

 

While I agree it's not a critical part, DO NOT just grab any old PCV Valve. I highly recommend using the Genuine Toyota part for this as its made with metal/plastic parts and is high quality.

I Just swapped out my PCV at 160k miles, looked like the original. It still rattled but just barely. I bought a PCV kit on ebay that included the grommet, Genuine Toyota PCV hose, and a generic PCV Valve. (it was cheaper to buy the kit than just the hose by itself haha). Luckily I also bought a genuine Toyota part PCV valve! Heres the kit I bought and Heres the genuine toyota PCV I bought.

Comparing the two in the pics below, the Toyota one was significantly heavier, better plastic molding, and the base was made of metal. It also fit snug into the generic grommet. The generic PCV was cheap and I doubt it would last 30k miles, while my OG valve lasted 160k and was still ticking!

 

Going to change mine thisavo. Did the cam cover gaskets and sea foamed the PCV, seems to work OK. But for the little money they cost, I'll change it. Another thing to consider; mine is the 4 cyl. model and has an o-ring to seal it. This was part of my leaking oil problem. So a new pcv will give me a new o-ring as well. The rubber hoses on this system were kinda dried out as well.
So for now I siliconed them hoping to soften them up.

 

2021 V-6 here. Swapped mine out OEM for $16 (probably cheaper at AutoZone) and considering I'm getting my oil changed and the dealership wanted to charge me $190....$16 ain't bad and 15 minutes of my time max (5 minutes of watching YouTube video on how so I don't screw it up ). Good to learn so I can swap em out every 30k miles.