TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

I feel there is a 9” or a Dana 60 in my future.

 

So 40K on your first URD stage 3? And you’re getting another one?

 

Yup and be in the left lane

 

@12TRDTacoma @White lightning boosted @BassAckwards @Roostfactor @TRON (and anyone else I've forgotten)

I wouldn't mind knowing what you think of this. Here's a picture of my clusterf*** of noose-mod pulleys.



This is a 69" belt. Fleetrunner of course, and this time I did an amazing job of cutting a rib off. It's a true work of art.

Now, when I first put it on, for a couple of days, I wasn't seeing belt dust. I thought okay, that's good, but unusual, because I've always seen some. I was at about 75% of max travel on the Roush and I figured I could get a little more, like to 85% or 90%, so I tried putting on the missing stock smooth idler that sits next to the lower ribbed idler. I couldn't get it on, with the Roush at max travel there wasn't enough slack in the belt to line it up so its bolt would thread in.

Then the next day, I'm seeing belt dust, not a ton but enough. And my boost had dropped from 15psi to 14psi, under similar conditions (or temperature, at least). I decided to try adding the stock idler back in - and this time, there was more than enough slack in the belt. Way more than enough.



The Roush is back to around 75% travel, maybe 80%. Based on the amount of slack in the belt compared to right after I put it on, it might have stretched 1/2 of an inch.

Do you think this is some kind of break-in thing? I didn't think belts were supposed to stretch this much in such a short period of time. Aside from the belt dust, the belt appears to be running just fine, no signs of other wear or fraying. One thing I noticed is the belt was pretty warm the second time, I had been driving around the city and leadfooting it quite a bit. Not like hot, but maybe 30 degrees. That's not enough to make me think this is some kind of heat expansion.

Hopefully it doesn't stretch any more, if stretching is indeed what's happened. I haven't driven around at all with the lower idler back in but I'll let you know tomorrow if there's any more (or less) belt dust.

Wouldn't mind knowing if you've seen some kind of stretch phenomenon before.

 

Is once every 1000 miles considered frequently??

 

On pulley bearings for a daily driver? Yes.

 

Yes I can. They are 6203's but I can insert that into page 1 here soon.

I always did think the heat exchanger was an overengineered piece. This just further solidifies that idea.

I saw your update. It sounded like a clutch but glad to hear it was after all. That's wild.

It is my belief that you have too much tension on the belt and that is indicated by the fact that you are making the tensioner travel further than it has to by adding extra rolling real estate. It may be more tension than belt is able to initially handle when new which is causing it to create extra additional wear until it can stretch out. (Fleetrunner belts are not supposed to stretch much if at all)

 

Year the rear diff looks easy enough to swap, but how about a front diff?

 

I'm hard AF on my truck. I've been expecting the clutch to go out eventually. I've definitely burned it up a few times, was just waiting for that eventual slip on the highway when I downshifted and tried to pass someone. I don't get near as much mileage/time on any of my parts that most people do. Alot of that is my own fault, I can admit that. But I pay for it gladly since I have such a blast in my truck. Shitty to cut a check often, but I'm not gonna go hating on URD like alot of people do because a part failed after 2 years of hard abuse.

 

@12TRDTacoma I spent some time on the internetland I agree it’s not stretch but the belt “wearing in” to the ribbed idlers and pulleys. There is a lot of tension on the belt, but not tons... the roush still has a fair amount of travel left. I’ll drive it for a few days like this and see what happens.

 

Rear diff is pretty easy, do yourself a favor though, remove the brake lines, don't just stretch em like I did. Yes, you can stretch them out enough to pull the axles out and remove the diff, but on my 4th time my brake lines started snapping. Also good news, Napa has replacement lines that you can bend up into the OEM configuration.

Haven't done the front yet, but its on my list, I imagine driveshaft/both CV axles, drop diff bolts and remove diff assembly, then have to remove the brace and the 4x4 actuator housing from the clamshell.

 

Oh. I thought @White lightning boosted was talking about engine oil.

 

Did you loosen anything else besides releasing tension on the tensioner? If you loosened a pulley bolt then retightened it, it's possible the bolt is bent which would make the pulley rotate from its centerline as the bolt is tightened. (Hard to explain but does it make sense?)

The tensioner needs to be near centered with belt installed in order to compensate for more and less slack. Those rotors are heavy! I mean like 10 to 15lbs. That kind of mass spinning at 10000 + rpm getting spun by the crank pulley. Then you let off throttle to shift, coast, whatever, and all 15lbs of spinning rotor mass wants to keep going while the engine is slowing down. This puts tension on the opposite side of the belt and makes the tensioner move in the opposite direction to compensate (either looser or tighter). If the tensioner hits its stop with all that momentum going on then the weakest link will surface.
I'd measure the belt and check for bent pulley mount bolts.

 

The front is not bad either, just heavy, but if I remember correctly it’s just removing the cv axles and all the mounting bolts for the front diff, and swapping over some stuff from old
Diff to new diff. I would highly recommend doing it yourself, it’s not as bad as it seems.

 

I was.

 

Does anybody have ucon and no cat (urd header and y-pipe then to a pair of vibrant resonator exit out to trd exhaust) my check engine will not go away. Urd online tuner told me I have to put the OEM header. My engine code is P0201 and p0202. What should I do?

 

Front diff is a pain. It’s heavy and awkward to get in and out. If you do it, make sure you get the truck high enough so you can press it off of your chest to put it back in place.

You can not use a jack. The rear mount is a stud that has to go over and drop into the mounting hole.

To complicate this further, once the rear mounting stud is in its hole, you cannot simply rotate the diff up to the front mounting holes. The diff hits the steering rack.

So, you actually have to lift the diff in with the front angled down. Get the rear mounting stud above and past it’s mounting hole, rotate the diff up past the steering rack, then slide the whole thing forward to seat the rear mount.

You have to swap the passenger side axle tube and stub shaft onto the new diff. Don’t forget the stub shaft. Many have left it in the old diff...

The breather line / wiring bracket is bolted to the top of the diff. This is also a PIA to get on and off. Not a lot of room to get to the bolt.

Obviously, have ECGS put their bushing on the drivers side when they build the diff. They do not automatically do this.

ECGS is amazing for anyone thinking about gears. I don’t want to type it all again, so you can see why I wouldn’t even think about going elsewhere at the bottom of my Dana 60 thread here:
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/new-bolt-in-dana-60-from-east-coast-gear-supply.588294/

 

Ditto on this. Just about everything you can see, but the breather line. You will think you have it all but reach up above it blindly to find the one 10 or 12mm bolt holding you up. The exchange is straight forward but it is a brutal beast to manipulate. Not impossible but def worse than the rear. Pumping fluid back into it is a pain as well since you can’t just pour fluid back in. Mine is blowing fluid up through the breather valve over the driver side wheel and I am dreading having to pull it down again to figure out why???

 

Are you using sims? I so, you should be using universal (wire in) sims from URD and not the Tacoma plug and play sims since ‘15 is the weird year that has problems with sims.

 

Is it doing it under normal driving in 4WD? I’d say it’s over filled if so.

Do you have an ARB? They’ve recently been prone to leaking due to a manufacturing defect in the seals.

This pressurizes the diff. That too can blow the oil out the breather.

If you didn’t know this already.

I just got my front diff back from ECGS for the second time due to bad seals. They have a new seal from ARB that is supposed to be the cure now. I guess we shall see.

Chase at ECGS told me that they’ve resealed like 200 ARBs in the last year. Said they went 14 years with virtually no problems, then this.

My Wife’s XJ has older ARBs in it, and never had an issue.