Drive shaft popped out while swapping leafs. Now pinging and tinging

Could I take the drive shaft somewhere like brake masters to press the old u joints out and new ones in? Just trying to minimize the work I need to do tonight.

 

Timmy from the TR4 forum rocks!

 

I'd just do it yourself. I just drove mine out with an old socket, and pressed them back in with a bench vice.

Again @Timmah! to the rescue.

 

The double cardan joint is the one that is "non replaceable" according to Toyota but I know some people on here have done it before, but it sounds like a major PITA. I wouldn't mess with that one unless you know it's bad.

 

Man, glad I ponied up for that OTC kit. I love that two-armed puller so much. I don't own a bench vise or anywhere to mount one though. Hoping I can find another way to press them in. Definitely don't own a bench grinder either. That's what worries me about trying to follow timmy's video. Maybe I can drill through it and drive a bolt through for leverage or something.

 

Don't need to grind flat spots on the caps. Just grab it tight with a big pair of Vice-grips.

Without a bench vice you can just drive them in with an old socket, or a big brass drift if you have one. Just be gentle, and not in a hurry.

The biggest thing is when taking the old one off, make sure you don't drive a cap in too far and it pops loose into the center of the yoke. I did that and ended up having to cut the U-joint to get it out. I didn't know that would happen, hadn't watched Timmy's video, so I wasn't watching out for it. If you know to watch out for it, it shouldn't happen.

 

Okay, gearing up to pull the drive shaft and replace the u joints. The spicer bearings I bought have a warning on the bag that the joint must be fully lubricated upon installation. Do I put more of that moly grease inside of the caps?

 

Na, just hit the grease zerks after it's back together.

 

Crap. I think it's the double cardan joint. It's totally seized in one direction. Guessing it's supposed to move as freely as the u joints?

U joint by the transmission is fine, smooth and free motion in all directions. U joint on the slip yoke binds a bit in one direction and is free in the other. Double cardan is super difficult to move. Video is coming soon. Anyone have a part number?

video
https://1drv.ms/v/s!Ai8zvSIVGTzzhPwy79oyYtG53pce3A


Should I just pump it full of grease and work it around? Guess I have nothing to lose at this point.

 

Okay, so we opted to try greasing everything really well vs replacing the u joints at this time. Pumped a ton of grease into the u joints and double cardan and also lubed up the slip yoke and its mate very well. I found that I hadn't bolted the slip yoke flush to the diff plate, which didn't help anything. The u joints all pushed out a pretty putrid substance while we were pumping in more of that moly grease. Still getting that rattling tin can sound, but it's noticeably better. I can't find any documentation on how the double cardan joint is supposed to articulate and what it's range of motion is, but it seems pretty seized from what I could tell. I think I'm going to try pumping even more grease into it next week to see if it can improve anymore. I'll also start sourcing a new one just in case. It's not making the greatest noise in the world, but it seems to be speed dependent. Lots of pinging up to 40 mph, then it got a little quieter.

Would you guys say its safe to drive on? Would you keep driving if it were your truck?

EDIT: Grammar and other fun mistakes from when you're tired

 

I think there are at least 2 zeros on the cardan, do both of them, lots of grease!

 

While I was cleaning yesterday I found a bottle of 3-in-1 oil in the garage with a busted cap. As an act of desperation, I poured the entire bottle along the top of the double cardan joint and let it sit for 2 - 3 hours. Later I went to autozone for more cleaning supplies and it pinged like crazy. But when I finally drove back to Phoenix several hours later there were maybe three individual pings the entire way! I think drenching it, driving for a bit, then letting it sit for a several hours helped the oil and grease get everywhere it needed.

Gonna keep greasing!

 

Picture time!
Bone yard (replaced parts)




Getting those pesky leafs lined up




The little brake line that could. Really amazed this didn't snap. Not my smartest move.




New leafs vs old





Before the axle slipped off the jack. Really should have ponied up for some more jack stands and put a towel between the pumpkin and the jack for a little more grip.




More pics in my build thread.

 

Rattling has come back a bit. Yota Pros mentioned I'd need to take it to a shop to have the length changed.

Let's say I don't do that. Is the rattling the only side effect, or is there the chance I'd damage something?

 

Could be since your driveline angle is changed and lack of grease in new areas causing pinging in the pinion area or carreir bearing

 

yea ur driveline angle

add some 4 degree shims it'll drive like butter

 

have you checked the carrier bearing..

 

I replaced the carrier bearing a few weeks ago

 

Part number?

 

Don't remember I think they were pro comp so something like the pro comp 99-400 4 degree shim?
Any shim should work just make sure you get steel because aluminum is soft and will mold over time.

I tried a couple different angles, 4 degrees was just right - maybe dependent on your individual setup. I did an AAL and got 2" in the rear.
I'm sure someone much smarter than me has done more investigation into optimal DL angles though.
Mine now drives smoother than it ever did before.

e/ the pinging issue I believe is due to small amounts of corrosion (crap or whatever) in the pinion or carrier bearing since they're operating at a different angle that corrsion is 'humming' away