Anybody run JBA headers?

I soaked mine and didn’t have a problem. Also you don’t have to take any of the studs out on the passenger side . You can buy new studor r nuts or use the old nuts. HOWEVER, on the driver side you have to remove 4 and you can put one back after you get it in there. Using the original stud serves two purposes . One less chance of leaks , two less chance of breaking them off when taking them out .

I will post pictures to follow

 

Passenger side , All original studs and locking nuts that I got from I Ace Hardware

 

I’d much rather just remove all the studs and use the new bolts with lock washers. Seems like they’d be just fine. And I’m a bit OCD about stuff like that.

I’ve also heard that the studs back out with the nuts anyway. I guess It depends on the age and condition. When I tried to remove the nuts off the upper flange on the first cat I broke one clean off and rounded another. Still rolling around with one untouched, one rounded and one broke a year later. Which left me with a distain for that specific type of nut. They do not like to be backed out at all. I hate them.

 

So the actual studs have to be removed completely on the drivers side from the engine block?

 

Driver side :

Three OEM studs and three of the hardware that came with the JBAs

Top to back studs and bottom middle stud had to be removed And replaced with JBA hardware

Front bottom stud had to be removed bit put back in.

Are used the tubal method instead of a torque bolt to get these off, Getting the two bolts is close to the head as I possibly could to avoid breaking them off

 

3-4 of them

I removed 4

Front bottom
Middle bottom
Middle top
Back top

 

I understand wanting to use the JBA hardware and make it all match .

I would’ve preferred this is well .

HOWEVER, The lockwashers undergoing constant heat and cooling will cease to be lockwashers after they’ve been heated up. I did the proper torquing all on the nuts and JBA bolt. Driver side is a huge pain .

 

I’ve read several complaints about JBA leaking . I truly believe it’s because of improper torquing and poor hardware use . We shall see . Only had my headers installed for two weeks


I’ll follow up and let you know

 

How many total are there ?

 

Six on each side

 

Remember I put the front bottom one back in (stock)

 

With 585,000 miles you’re definitely going to want to be careful

My truck only has 141,000 miles

 

I bet your truck is awesome !

Five speed Manuel
With the supercharger and methanol injection

Header and a cat back exhaust would definitely help

I’m currently saving up for my cat back Exhaust and then moving on to the supercharger

 

That suck man, sorry to hear that.

I was really concerned about that as well.

I decided to only take out the ones I absolutely had to . I totally understand your point about wanting to have everything match

 

I didn't know it was such an issue, I just had my clutch replaced, transmission removed and that probably would have been the time to do it.
I have a cat back now. I probably will wait on the headers for now

 

What is a tubal method and torque bolt?

 

Start from the inside out torque to 20 pounds. Obviously you want to go back-and-forth between the bolts

 

Ever heard of Nord-Lock lock washers? Gonna look more into those and also go to the local fastener supply house and take the supplied hardware to see if they have any recommendations to improve the setup.

The first order of business is getting the rust off of the studs. Guess Ill start with spraying them with something to try and loosen it up and try and use a brush to try and clean them up a little. Then maybe chase the threads if I can get a tool in there.

 

Take your time. Spray, tap, wait, spray, tap, wait. Best of luck.

 

They want you to take out both sides studs, I don’t like JBA hardware for shit they corrode easy and I live in Ca sooo, ARP going in for the kill soon.