Any woodworkers?

You might try bleaching it out if it is absorbed into the grain. That can work really well.

 

Of course a test section might work best.

 

I would try something like this if they have a bit of flex to them. They might hit the jamb though when they’re open. It’s made for bifold doors but might do the trick.

2-Piece Bifold Closet Door Hardware Kit https://www.lowes.com/pd/2-Piece-Bifold-Closet-Door-Hardware-Kit/1000133983

 

I’ve been using Cabot gold from Lowe’s, the oak color, doesn’t change the color much and has held up great on some outdoor restaurant tables I made. Just apply pretty heavy. Any finish will need reapplication in a few years, I’m not the biggest fan of marine spar varnish cause it always feels tacky unless you cut it with something.

 

I agree. I think wood bleach may be your only option. That has to be a dye stain, which usually absorb pretty deeply, so sanding it is your only option. If you've never bleached wood before, get yourself a good respirator and chemical gloves. Wood bleach makes Clorox look like club soda!

 

I'd think it shouldnt be in the the crack, since the original color was prob put on before it cracked. or if it was cracked then they painted it, it might be a problem.

 

Upgrading my tools

 

I second this product!
You can actually mix this with alcohol or water, which is really nice and makes it a bit more flexible, depending on what your clear coat will be (don't remember if you mentioned what you're using or not). I know you're going for the green, but you can get some really interesting looks when you layer several colors.
Used two different TransTint dyes for this maple bar top I did about 8 years ago:

 

About how much money is sitting in that stack?

 

I don’t want to remember lol

 

I figured it might be a personal question but I was curious so I thought I would ask. They use Festool tools on This Old House but I have never priced them.

 

I've been sanding and finishing floors since 1990. My advice would be not to try and do it your self cuz with the trial and error factor you'll probably end up spending just as much as hiring a professional.
BTW, the first pic is red oak, very common in most mid century homes. Whatever the original color of the wood is it will also contribute to the final color - so grey over red oak, the red will show through unless you go with a very dark grey. That said you also have to know how to prep it to ensure that the color penetrates as much as possible, and there are also very specific non-yellowing finishes recommended specifically for white and grey stains. Staining a large area properly is actually a whole other skill level (compared to natural finish), that even a lot of professionals don't ever master with consistent results.



Grey over red oak.

More Pics ~ https://www.yelp.com/biz/nicolas-hardwood-floors-santa-ana

 

Before


After

 

Hey everyone, I was sent here to ask about this.

 

Youtube is a good resource for resin. I would look into a long cure resin, so you can mess with it for awhile and make sure there are no bubbles.

Maybe do a couple small pours so you can get the feel for how to mix it and work with it.

 

Is it called epoxy resin? Or just long cure resin...? I want to make sure I'm looking at the right stuff.

 

Yes. You might want to consider 2 separate pours, depending on how thick you want the table to be. Are you going to give the table wood sides?

 

I haven't gotten that far yet. Still mapping it out in my head. The bulk of the caps have come from the bar when I go out and I've been drinking a lot of flying fish brand for the red caps.

I was leaning towards using some luan or whatever I have lying around and then take it off when I'm done so you can see into it from the side. Not that there will be much to look at...

I've acquired more since this pic. And weeded out the non-American brews