How to Drain/Refill Automatic Transmission

When I did mine, I got the distinct impression that the shift pattern to get the dash light to flash didn’t mean squat. I never saw it flash, but I spent so much time trying that eventually the trans light just came on and stayed. I think all that shifting just heated up the trans.

I think when you jump the pins you’re in temp check mode.

 

You pulled the wrong plug not once, but twice? Geez...

 

I just tried this... it works on a 2015 also... thanks!

-Bear

 

Mine didn't - see post #212 in this thread

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...your-vsc-computer-the-easy-way.467485/page-11

 

The 115F-130F range was specified in the first post of this thread. I recently bought a subscription to Toyota's TIS at techinfo.toyota.com. Looked up this info for my 1GR-FE 2015 Tacoma.

The range for that year is 97F - 115F

Makes me wonder how many others are also 97F - 115F and not what was posted in the opening thread.

Also - I see comments about not getting the "A/T Oil Temp" light to turn on for 2 sec then turn off when returning to PARK. When you are going about the business of shifting from D to N - back and forth, you must lean a little to the left and keep your eyes fixed on that A/T Oil Temp light. If you do the shifting sequence properly, as soon as you have completed the sequence, the A/T Oil Temp light will come on briefly and then turn off. It does not do this when you shift back to park.

 

What about this publication? Note the model number of the transmission at the very top.

 

I own a 2015 1GR-FE Tacoma. The 97F-115F temp I noted came from doc for that vehicle at the Toyota TIS site.
Yeah...the info you have provided is for an A750x transmission, but what model/yr of a Toyota is it for?

 

I don’t know, I always though the model of the transmission was the key.

Scroll down until you see 750f. Model yrs for 750 transmission.

A 2015 is a 750f

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toyota_A_transmission

 

I think a lot of people go by this as well. This is why I use the jumper wire technique. I figure the microprocessor is turning on the "A/T oil temp" light when it's time to crawl underneath and pull the over fill plug or when an excessive temp has been reached.

Out of curiosity, I did like some(just to see the value) and got underneath the truck and shot at the pan with an IR gun - Harbor Freight $39 cheapy. It read 93F. The "A/T oil temp" light in my case comes on at 97F. Toyota is likely reading fluid temp. The pan is not likely to be the same temp as the fluid. I then allow the truck to continue idling until the "A/T oil temp" light starts blinking - indicating the ATF fluid is too hot. In my case, that fluid temp is 115F as per Toyota doc. I crawl underneath once again and shoot at the pan with the HF IR gun. It reads 108F.

There's a term known as "emissivity". Among other things, it applies to the use of IR Guns. Transmission pans are generally painted and this can throw off the reading of an IR gun, especially the cheap one that I have. Some here prefer to use an IR gun. That is their business. I'll let Toyota's microprocessor tell me when it's show time.

This morning I did another ATF Temp Check test on my '15 PreRunner 4.0L Tacoma(A750E) - ambient temp was 63F at the start of the test and 68F at end of test. Truck sat overnight.

It took 18min 40Sec from the time the truck went into temp check mode until the "A/T oil temp" light went solid - indicating it was time to pull the overfill plug.
35min 45sec after the truck went into temp check mode - the "A/T oil temp" light started blinking - indicating the ATF fluid was too hot.

Ambient temp plays a role in how long it take to get the first "A/T oil temp" light, indicating it's time to pull the overfill plug.

 

I also used the jumper wire with no problem.

 

Did the fill and check method multiple times and finally wound up at a mechanic shop in town locally and had them check it for me. I was told that the fluid level with spot-on and there should be no issues

 

My 2010 is also 97-115

 

To each his own, I suppose. But it seems potentially inaccurate to use an IR gun. Why not simply use the correct procedure? I've done it 5 times...once for an initial level check (it was not low) and 4 a few weeks later for drain and fills. No issues whatsoever. On the last check, the outside temp was below 20° F so it did take some time for the light to come on. But that was the most inconvenient thing about it. So no sweat off my back.

Am I missing something? Seems like a bit of over thinking.

 

Also a fan of the jumper wire myself. I think a lot of folks are just scared of the idea of poking around with the OBD connector or maybe they won't count the pins correctly or they have jittery hands?

 

.

 

You are missing something, we all used the pin jumping method like you. The question was about what actual temperature is check mode. The 1st post fortech did says 115 others say 97. We know it doesn’t matter if you jump the pins. But what do you use if you have a scan guage, ect.

 

I see what your saying. But pin jumping eliminates the need for any other method and takes the guess work out of the equation. That's all I was saying

 

Yes, I agree.

 

Made mine several weeks back. So much easier to use. Only paid $6.50 for it