Colorado B.S. Thread

I don't remember when I bought mine but got mine on Amazon for $120ish less than anywhere else and with Amazon prime I got free shipping.

 

I see Amazon has the 1st Gen bumpers for $879 right now. I thought I had read somewhere that they get down in the $750-$790ish range roughly once a year when ARB runs some speshuls. I may post in the 1st gen forum (or search) to see what I can find. But that is down a ways on my list...

 

Fail! At least I tried. But it isn’t blinking anymore more.

 

Electrical tape

 

That light was on so often in my old Yukon that the bulb finally burned out. Just after that, though, the oil pressure light came on...then I bought my first Toyota.

 

Did you clear the code and it came back on?
I'm guessing you know by now that some codes won't clear themselves until after quite a few successful cycles.

 

I was one of the guys that bailed from Centennial Apt today. I was NOT playing the game at all after getting stuck for hours last month. For those that drive I25 south/north between Monument and Centennial apt...the construction stinks. They need LARGER holes on the "jersey dividers" to let the water go out. That was the worst of it...granted I bailed at 12:30 pm....so no clue what it is doing now.

Working from home tomorrow just because I can

 

I work around the Centennial Airport and have a bunch of coworkers that live in Monument... none of them showed up to the office today

 

Put 37's on your truck, they said.

It'll be fun, they said.

 

LOL....pansies.....it was fine this AM but I made a decision to bail just past noon. It's all good...Monument was fine til this afternoon...however the construction was a PITA. CDOT hasn't figured out how to get the water out from the Jersey dividers in the construction area.

But...D38 Monument School District cancelled all classes today so they may have had to take care of their kiddos.

 

Thanks you I needed that.

Here's what happened. I turned on the truck and it seemed to run ok. No check engine light. I turned off the truck after 10-15 mins of idling. I decided to turn it off because I needed to put the hood back on so I can take it for a test drive. After I got the hood on I tried to turn on the truck and it struggled to turn on. I had to hold the key longer then I should to get it started. Once it started it idled like shit and I noticed the ckeck engine light. I ran over to auto zone and got a scan tool and the tool said P0304. So now it's saying I have a misfire on #4. At least now I know which cylindar is acting up. It's the coil pack that had corrosion on it. I'll most likely get new coil packs. I still haven't done a commpression test yet.

 

Move the coil pack and see if the code follows it.

 

Damn.... sorry dude that sucks.

Wouldent have had the issues if ya just whent with @thefatkid to begin with

 

Exactly what I did with the sienna.
Swap packs, clear code, restart.
If code indicates new location, you've solved it pretty conclusively and can get a new coil pack.
I got one cheap from rock auto and it's been doing fine for maybe a year so far?

 

Reading between the lines...

Are you putting a TrueTrac in the front end of your 3rd gen? And you got it from East Coast Gear Supply? Did you get just the TT, or a fully built front-end diff with a TT already installed by ECGS?

Disappointing to hear of your troubles communicating with a vendor like that.

 

wow, that really sucks

 

Yeah I thought about that after I returned the scan tool. Kind of kicking myself in the ass about it. I was in a hurry with the scan tool. If I swap it now I have no way of testing it to see if it moves to another cylinder. Plus Dylan and I are going to do a compression test prior to getting new coil packs.

 

I have bad luck with rock auto unless its a door handle or mirror.

 

I have had good luck with the cheesy commercial guys at "ROCK AUTO".....for window actuators they simply rock, the are also good at getting hard to find things for the Jeep. Simply cheap and quick shipping!