3.4L TRD Supercharger rebuild

What’s the coating in the bore look like?

 

Was your sc a 2nd gen

 

Does anyone know why a butt screw is used for the oil filler mod? It seems like there should be a screw with a shoulder or head at the top so that someone can't "accidentally" spin it into the cone. Wouldn't a short cap screw work? I know there is not a good seat for the head but that could also be part of the mod since you already have the cone in the drill press.

TIA

 

Don’t think there was a particular reason why it was used and definitely could be done with any screw. Clearance on the top isn’t an issue.

 

Rebuild kit from HighSpeedLabs came this week (for the nose drive). Also got the tap and plug for the filler mod.



Should I be able to do all the bearing work with a 20T press and sockets and stuff or will I need a special tool?

 

What did that kit set you back from HSL? Thinking I might order one to keep on hand...the older these superchargers get the more afraid I am of companies not offering parts for them anymore. Although I guess since Magnuson still sells the superchargers the parts should stay around for awhile.

 

I can't remember, it was around $100, plus or minus a couple of options.

Edit: It was $127 before the conversion to Canadian peso

 

I don't think any of these parts are Magnuson or Toyota. The bearings are pretty standard and are made by various manufactures with varying quality. I'm not sure about the seals. They may be harder to find.

 

Your rebuild kit looks the same as mine (as you can see a couple of posts above) but I only payed for the nose drive rebuild kit. I wonder if they sent me parts for the full rebuild anyway. I have two roller bearings which I think go in the back.

Also I'm not sure where the oil change plug mod should go. There is no flat place to drill through on my version. I only see a cold plug (I think) with a dab of something to seal it (pic below) and no obvious way to remove it or fill it once I do the nose drive rebuild.

 

You have the black TRD supercharger which already has a drain plug, it's the one you are referring to (circled red)....you need a Allen wrench/key to open it, then draw the fluid out with a syringe (and refill it the same way)

 

Ahhh thanks @eon_blue. Good to know.

I rented a ball joint press Saturday to do the job and then chickened out to do some more reading.
But what am I scared of? OP did it with a sledge and a 1/2" socket set

It looks like HighSpeedLab included the roller bearings for the full rebuild but they said it was a blind install to set them properly and that some have difficulty timing the rotors so I may just do the nose drive.

 

Excellent write up I have been looking for something like this, looking into rebuilding my trd supercharger on my 2000 3.4L

 

I’m adding this info for the last step after the supercharger is rebuilt.

When I have taken my supercharger off I don’t disconnect the battery.
No real need too for me.

You need to do a ECU reset after your rebuilt if you didn’t disconnect the battery.

I did a free power upgrade yesterday,

I reset the ECU by disconnecting the battery for 20 minutes.

I have done this before but not for 20 minutes and apparently the ram was actually never cleared because my

$152 ScanGauge - SG2 II Ultra Compact 3-in-1 Automotive Computer with Customizable Real-Time Fuel Economy Digital Gauges , Black , 5"

scanguage was working after I did the reset before.

This time I disconnected the battery and came back probably 20 minutes later busy doing other stuff and reconnected the battery and the scanguage turned on but had no info displayed.Mmmm,

Apparently the scanguage will not display any info while the ECU is in the learning curve.

It took 75 miles of driving and then the scanguage was working again which let me know the ECU was completed.

Truck now is getting 21 degrees in timing on full throttle where is was at only 18 degrees before just from a correct ECU reset. A bunch of new power!

Apparently I wasn’t clearing the ram before with the battery disconnected for 5 minutes

 

So if mine is whining fairly loud do I not need to do a full rebuild? Maybe just change the oil?

 

Does anyone know if this part changeable? It’s for 3.4 4 runner. I bought it and it was bent like that. I’m afraid if I try to bring back in it’s place it will break. Any ideas?

 

Those two lines are vacuum I believe, the tubes are probably pressure fit in there.
The exposed end is probably the same as the end going into the supercharger.
So you probably can match something up without to much trouble. I seriously doubt this part is available anymore for the 1st gen.
1) So you might be able to back it out and find something similar.
2) Or cut it off, then drill out the old part if it doesn’t come out, and install a new one,
Jb weld it in place if needed.
3) heat up the tube and bend it very slowly to the correct position

 

I got the O-Rings but I don't see the gasket on their site or anywhere else I've looked. In your experience what kind of performance impact is it with the leak at the bypass? Both HP and Mileage? Mine is leaking bad enough it won't idle below 1500 RPM when warm and when I coast to a stop and put the clutch in the RPM's drop to around 800, then revs back up for about 2-3 cycles before resuming it's 1500 RPM idle.

 

There are two O ring gaskets different size only, you will loose boost and have idle issues,
No gasket for the lower bypass part. Just get a tube of high temp gasket maker.
If you have ANY VACUUM leaks, superchargers will not run correctly and engine too. You can use this gasket maker alone with both the O rings together for a better fit.
Remember if you install the top ring in particular and you decide to pull the
bypass tube out you probably will destroy the ring, it fits in a grove and will probably rip or get gouged if you pull it apart again. The gasket maker will
help make sure these sections are tight and not loose and sealed tight.

 

Great, I thought about doing this but figured if there was a gasket I should do it right and didn't want to tear it apart to look unless I had what I need. Good info on adding some to the O-Ring area too.

Thanks!

 

Just finishing up my supercharger rebuild and can’t remember what it was like when I took it apart. Is the nose cone shaft pushed in far enough? When pressing it, felt like it bottomed out. But now installing the pulley any it seems like I need to push it in another 1/2”. Is the little cut/grove supposed to line up? And how much of a gap is needed between pulley and s/c housing?
Here are a few pictures: