All Pro Slider Install

Installed a set today. Got my All Pro sliders from Summit, lower price and best shipping. I painted them with a foam roller using Rustoleum bare metal primer, several coats. The primer was white. Then hit them with a black rattle can anti-rust primer. Then used my last stock of the old style Duplicolor rattle can bed liner. Love that stuff, too bad it is not available anymore. Put on about three coats, about one can per slider.

Sliders went on fairly easy, some adjustment with a big dead blow mallet and my aluminum race jack and a 4x4 piece to lift and hold them up while I started the bolts. My truck being an 2006 apparently does not have the boxes y'all mention. The brake lines I used aircraft cushion clamps to re-secure. I still have the c/s screws on the bottom to do, just got tired and called it a day for now.

I like them, should be perfect to stop door dingers and fend off at least lighter blows from rocks and stumps on the trail. And should give me a decent step to help load my kayaks and bikes up top.

J

 

Hey man, thanks again for all the pix and tips, super helpful!
I have the pass side on %100 and just need to trim that plastic cover on that connector cover.

The driver's side is on with all the main hardware but still need to drill the bottom frame bolts and the rear most (used a nut plate on the pass side and drilled from under the truck outward) and make up some tabs for the brake lines.
It's tough to get the bottom holes centered but it works well enough if you're off a bit.

 

Too funny....we had the same weekend!

What are the clamp that you mentioned for the brake lines?
I'm wrapping it up tomorrow, drilling the frame holes and the last side one at the rear (log bed)....I need to center them better!

 

Hey guys, I bought a set of sliders used but they didn't come with any hardware. Can any of you tell me the dimensions of the nut plates so I can make up my own? Thanks

 

I have one at home that I can measure later today.
If you look at my pix you can get a rough idea ....maybe 2x2”.

All it has to do is fit inside the LCA, you can use larger on the frame rails because you can access the back side.

I used all 5 on the pass side and would have used all 5 on the drivers but the gas tank is blocking the drill at the rear most location. I can’t drill it from the outside either.

I just finished this last weekend so hit up if you have any questions.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/all-pro-slider-install.464236/page-5#post-19220752

 

All-pro install instructions: The nut plates are 2.5" x 2" 1/8th thick.

For the 3 nut plate locations at the front (driver & pass sides) I bought six grade-8 5/16th 1-1/2" long bolts because the slider had a slight gap off the frame, and it made it easier to start the bolt in the LCA.
I also used some double sided tape to hold the one in the LCA so it wouldn't slide down.

If you look at the link I sent you can get an idea of where the hardware goes and how much you'll need, I'd guess the short bed is different.
It ships with 5/16th by 1-1/4" grade-8 bolts and flat washers, 2x per nut/bolt locations and a lock nut (not a nylock).
You might want to get grade-8 lock washers for the nut plates, it came with standard ones.


At the bottom of the frame there are 4x 5/16th by 1" (iirc) flat head hex bolts (and flat washer & lock nut mentioned above) for the countersunk holes in the slider.
Try and get your holes as centered as possible otherwise the bolt won't seat totally flat.
I used a cordless to drill to make an 1/8th inch pilot, went through pretty easily, then used a 1/4" cobalt drill bit, finishing using a right angle drill with a 7/16" cobalt bit. I only used one bit of each size, it's a drag to drill all those holes but it worked well.
Again the front of the slider at the bottom had a slight gap but it bent the slider's lip up to the frame as it was tightened.

The driver's side wasn't as bad as I thought but still took a while because of the brake lines. As suggested a few posts earlier get some 1/16th aluminum and you can make some brake line relocation tabs & also massage the brake lines to make them fit good.
I only had to do this in two places, and I had two of the lock nuts left over so they are a little bit more out of the way than in the earlier post.

I also slit some fuel hose and placed it over the brake lines in a few places to be extra safe.

Pic of the parts:

 

Here's the brackets I made from flat 1-1/4" by 1/16th aluminum, you can cut it with tin snips and use a sander to round the corners. About 3" long and held it to the bolt and marked the middle of the lines.

The hole for the bolt is 7/16, the hole for the brake line clips are 3/8 and I added the zip ties just to keep them in place. (you can see the fuel line cover I put on to the rear of the frame by the nut plate). The last pic you can see the gas tank is in the way so you can't drill from the underside rear of the last slider leg. I didn't want to remove the whole thing for that last bolt.

Rear by gas tank


rear brake mount


massage brake lines over the frame cross member


front brake mount
you slightly bend the lines away from the frame rearward of the control box that they run under (at the right side of the pic)


front brake mount is in the stock location

 

Awesome! Thanks very much for the info, great detail.

 

Just passing it on!!
Let me know if you need any more info or pix.

I hit the nut plates with some self etching primer before installing, and also the holes I drilled in the frame.

 

Also, i didn't have to trim the cover on teh box on the passenger side.....move it forward and tilt it downward like in this post.

BAMF true 100% no drill bolt on sliders

 

Quick follow up question.....
The other day I was on a fire road and the legs are banging against the pinch welds......anyone else have this happen and solve it without removing them??
I really want to avoid taking them off and also don't want to destroy the pinch welds by cutting or banging them with a hammer.

 

Unfortunately you’ll have to cut or pound the pinch welds to create that clearance, there really is no other way to create that clearance. I tried without removing the sliders and I couldn’t get it done with the cutting tools I have. There just wasn’t enough room. Perhaps you can get in there with a plasma cutter?....not sure?? Initially only the driver’s side was hitting in 2 locations, so I took care if those. Then one day when I was wheeling I hit the sliders super hard and after that all the locations on my passenger side started hitting the pinch weld so I had to take the passenger side off and trim it down as well.

 

Damn that's a bummer!
What did you use and how much did you trim?


Were you able to get the rear most bolt on the driver's side of the frame.....the one that you have to drill out the slider?? The gas tanks was in the way so I didn't put that in and I'm sure it's not helping.



I forgot to ask, if you get a chance would you be able to post up a pic?

 

I used a small air cut-off tool and just cut slits on opposite sides of the square tubing about 1/2” or so up and then I just bent it back. You can use a hacksaw as well if you only have hand tools. I used a hacksaw when I initially did the 2 locations on my drivers side. First I bent it back with a large vice grip for leverage. I clamped it and just pushed it back. Then I used a block of wood and bashed the shit out of it with a big as hammer. I tried just pounding it at first, but that pinch weld wasn’t moving so I had to cut the slits. By the way, not to state the obvious, but don’t forget to mark where you need to cut before taking the sliders off. I wasn’t thinking straight and I forgot to mark it before taking it off and I had to put it back on again....I wanted to kick myself...
Also, don’t forget to seal up the cut areas after with paint or sealant.
Here’s what mine looks like. It’s not pretty, but it haa clearance and you don’t even notice it unless you look directly at it.

 

Forgot to answer your question about the rear most bolt by the gas tank. Yes, I drilled and put a bolt there. There’s enough room to drill the hole and add a bolt. It’s a pain to get the nut on because it’s tight in there, but it’s doable. Removing the factory skid plate from the gas tank helped a little.

 

Man thanks so much for that, huge help!

Do you think there's a way to bend the pinch weld back without taking it off....maybe cut the slits and slide a piece of wood against it and bash it that way?

On the driver's side last hole again I'm guessing that you drilled the slider & frame with it off the truck? .....I guess I messed that one up by thinking it was like the pass side where i drilled from under the truck outward, there was a slot in the frame so it was just the slider so I had to use a nut plate.

 

Not a problem. Glad I could help.

Yeah you can just cut slits, put a piece of wood and bash away. However, it’ll bend easier if you get it started first (what I mentioned with the vice grip in my previous post). When I tried bashing it when it was straight the pinch weld was just digging into the wood.

Yeah, I marked the hole and took the sliders off and then drilled the hole from the outside.

Edit: Just realized I read your post wrong. I don’t think you can just put a piece of wood and bash it without taking off the sliders. There’s not enough room for a decent piece of wood to fit in there. I guess you can try though.

 

I’ll have to take a closer look at it again.
I guess it’ll be quicker since the holes are there now. It’s just a big pita to try and nab the parking spot in front of my place!

I guess you can use the floor jack and a piece of wood to bend the cut area after starting it with the vise grips.

 

I looked at it the other day and I think I can make the vertical cuts in the pinch welds with a sawzall and use a blunt tip chisel on my demo hammer to bend the pinch weld back and away.

I’ll definitely give it more thought before going this route and making mess of things but I think it could work.

 

I did not have the clearance issues with my set. I would think hammering the pinch welds over would work instead of cutting though.