Remove ABS Hardware Pump/Lines

Has anyone done this successfully on a second gen? I have read multiple first gen stories. Just trying to gather what hardware is needed to revert back to a traditional non-ABS setup under the hood. Not sure if this would be new lines or just block off through the pump or what?

 

Why do you want to remove the ABS?

 

ABS is a proven technology. Why do you want to remove it?

 

Because I no longer want it on my truck.

Thank you, not recommending to anybody. I would just like to remove it from my truck.

 

Why??????

 

Thank you. I am tracking all the ways to temporarily disable. I am just interested in what hardware is required to permanently remove all sensors, ancillary lines and pump.

 

I'd do that. I'm wondering if it's a required function that must be working in your state to get licensed.

 

I pull the fuse. As to why, I've had the stupid thing kick on too many times off road, so I get it.

What type of brake system do you have? My 2008 TRD OR has the traditional vacuum booster and stand-alone ABS pump on the right fender. I searched for this specifically because it's a throw-back and seemed basically the same as 1st gens. But haven't done any modifications yet to help with specifics.

Perhaps if your state does a safety inspection that could be something to consider. But it's probably your insurance company that would care mostly.

 

I share the same setup, vacuum booster and stand alone pump. I caught wind of someone that stated they sourced all the hardware, but had not yet converted. I could not recall where I saw it, but wondering if anyone had successfully completed it.

I am really trying to avoid the highly contentious debates here and just looking for information. I can disable lights and functions on the ECM for off-road use only. I am not worried about lights or codes.

I can disable lights and codes, not concerned about any of that.

 

I think the difference here is there was never an option not to have ABS with a 2nd gen so I have been under the assumption that it'll be easier to just bend and flare the pipes needed to eliminate it from trucks like ours. For example you'll have to proportion the rear brakes without ABS and maybe a manifold replacing the ABS pump?

 

I think you are right. I will try to mimic off of the 1st gen non-ABS setup. Proportioning calves will definitely need to be part of it.

 

Didn't the 1st gens have the funky load sensing proportioning valve?

 

I know they have one on the rear axle proportioning between the both wheels, but there is probably one up front adjusting front and rear.

 

If you figure it out let us know. The ABS on these trucks sucks, especially if you grew up driving vehicles without it and know how to drive. ABS is one of the best things invented for vehicles but the implementation on these trucks leaves a lot to be desired. Not all states have the BS revenue generating programs known as safety inspections either, but yeah, lights on my dash would drive me nuts (which reminds me, I need to change my oil).

I know my 1st gen had a proportioning valve on the rear axle and I'm pretty sure that there was another forward of that. It's been a while since that truck got totaled.

 

I don't know if there's a proportioning valve like the LSPV, I thought the non-ABS 1" master cylinders from 89-95 trucks and 1st gen Tacoma have a built-in front/rear bias that pushes more fluid to the calipers by virtue of the piston design.

My assumption was (and I have no reason for this) that the 05+ vacuum brake booster was a carry over and that a non-ABS master would probably bolt on. If it's even different. I don't know that other than the shared reservoir that the master cylinder is actually any different since the ABS function is a separate device.

 

I would just add a switch....its nice to be able to turn off when off road, however Its also nice tonhave when cruising on the pavement.

 

I got a '12 OR hydraulic master, so can't look, but from the pics, it looks like your abs pump has 2 lines in, 4 lines out. Could you just pull the pump and replace it with an adjustable proportioning valve from Summit or Jegs? Figure all the lines are right there, so minimal bending or adapter fittings would be needed, then you can adjust proportioning until you like how it feels front to back. No need to run new lines.

 

I think this is the way to go. I like to keep things as stock as possible, but I will do some digging.

 

Resurrecting this thread (there's been worse resurrections).

I'm wanting exactly the same as OP, with the same setup (remote ABS on PS of engine bay).

After 12 years of brakes that are spongy, no matter what I do to fix it, I've pretty much decided it's the pump, likely defective from the factory (well out of warranty now). The way I want to go about it is to simply bypass the hydraulics of the pump, and nothing else. Which is really just a matter of splitting the two incoming lines to the four outgoing lines, with maybe a proportioning valve slipped in (maybe).

So I suppose my question is now...

Does anyone know the exact size and type of hydraulic fittings that are on the ABS pump?

If I had that answer, I could probably bypass the pump in a matter of minutes, once I find parts.





And if y'all really want to get on my case and wag your fingers at me, review my brake history:
I've had spongy brakes since the day I got my truck from the dealer. I'm well outside any warranty now (my bad). I've sourced the problem down to only the ABS pump. How? Because the only time I've ever had amazing brakes has been the one day immediately after having the ABS pump bled on the special machine (this has been several times).
Here's my current setup, in chronological progression of parts. NOTHING is cheap Chinese crap, all quality parts, all new when installed most of it Toyota factory parts unless noted.
Porterfield R4S compound front and rear. ATE Typ 200 fluid. Centric drums and rotors (whichever the premium model of the day was each time I changed them out). BSS flex lines (I forget the brand, the DOT-approved ones). ABS Kill Switch mod. Front brakes from a 2016 T4R. MC and booster pump from a 2012 Tundra. I have bled the system, both traditional method and the ABS pump machine bleeder, so many damn times I can teach classes on how to do it blindfolded (literal gallons of fluid).
Each upgrade improved the brakes some, but as I said above, the only time I've had the kind of performance I would expect has been after the ABS pump bleeder machine, and that would only last about one day.
And no, I have never once seen any wetness around any part of my brake system, so there's no leaks.

 

I think @Airdog is your man